I have been assuming (perhaps incorrectly) that you are having trouble with AF using the ml-l3. If it is not working at all, be sure you have the 'Shooting Menu' remote control mode (ml-l3) set to your desired option(and not 'off').

In mode U1 or U2, whatever control button you assigned for AF control, turn it off, or back to it's normal setting. For instance, if you assigned BBF to the AE-L/AF-L button, change Custom menu F4 back to 'AE/AF lock', and the release button should then go back to it's normal half-press for AF.

You may want to have Custom menu A2 set to 'focus' and not 'release' if you want to be sure your camera finds something in focus before releasing the shutter. Save your user settings so they survive a power off mode change.

I can't find my ml-l3 to test (I've been using radio controls too long), and I actually prefer to have my camera "not" try to re-focus before a remote shutter release, so that's the best advice I can give now.

If you set one of your user modes U1 or U2 to "not" use BBF, and then use that mode with your remote, it might solve your AF problem.

Both are set for variations of Manual with back button focus. U1, I use most often, especially for any form of flash photography. U2, has a different metering mode and uses auto-iso (for non-flash).

AF is set to the default 'release button' in all other modes so the wife, who doesn't do BBF, can also use the camera.

If you mean "My thread, my rules" I think you may be mistaken.

The System Administrator of this forum sets the rules, not an OP.

Yes, the very first rule for this section of the forum is to “be polite”.

http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-1-1.html

In this section there appears to be no moderator, other than Admin, that has authority to control content.

Yes, it should be common courtesy for participants to let the OP control the direction of a discussion, but as long as members stay relatively “on topic” and maintain civil discourse, they are not violating any current forum sub-section rules.

And, finally, I must add, with a little smile, that you seem to have been a day late and a dollar short with your protest.

The members that you feel may have “hi-jacked” your thread have already taken it to a remote location, removed all the valuable parts, set it on fire, and left it to rust as they drove away.

You may have uploaded every other image in Adobe RGB format, but once UHH has them available for viewing and download, Adobe Bridge and Jeffrey Friedl's EXIF viewer find them as "uncalibrated". And, both programs apparently interpret uncalibrated images as sRGB. As far as those programs are concerned, all your images are sRGB once downloaded from UHH.

I have no idea if changing them back to Adobe RGB via software will result in files identical to your originals or not.

The internet, or this site, appears to like only sRGB.

Without seeing any images, and just looking at DXOmark testing, your lens/camera combo is capable of only 7 perceived megapixels of sharpness, and it is sharpest at the lowest zoom settings.

Changing to almost any version of a Nikon 70-200 f/2.8 lens will pretty much guarantee sharper results at your sporting events. Tamron's 70-200 f/2.8 G2 should also give you over double the current possible sharpness of your existing lens... at a cost much less than the current Nikon offering (G2 not yet tested, G1 16P-megapixels of sharpness).

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Yes, I understand, sir. You gave your answer based on your experience with your camera(s), not the OP's. I do own a D750, and I based my answer based on my experience with that camera model.

After my previous comment, I was really expecting someone to say, "rotate the D750 90 degrees and you change the aspect ratio from 3:2 to 2:3 prior to image capture."

I believe I understood, sir. You said the OP was changing aspect ratio with the menu option labeled "Image Size". But, the OP cannot (to my knowledge) change the "Aspect Ratio" prior to any image capture. It is set at 3:2, no matter what the "Image Size" setting is.

The aspect ratio of an image can be changed in-camera after capture with the "Trim" option of the "Retouch Menu". But, that is really a pain, and I believe better done with external post-processing applications.

If you do know of an option to set a new aspect ratio before capture with the D750 I'd be interested in finding it. I always like to learn new things. :)

I appreciate the thumbs up, but "image size" really doesn't change aspect ratio. You will notice that all the selections under "Image Size" maintain the original 3:2 aspect ratio.

Actually, he did select a different "Image Size" for the stored "jpeg" image (in pixels - width x height), based on whatever his "Image area" was set at the time of the change. I guess that's why they label that menu section "Image Size".

Using the full "Image Area" (FX) the available jpeg dimensions would be: Large - 6016x4016, Medium 4512x3008, and Small 3008x2008.

"Image Quality" and "Jpeg Compression" affect file storage but not image dimensions.

A Large "Fine" jpeg and a Large "Basic" jpeg are both 6016 pixels x 4016 pixels if the full FX sensor area is used on the D750.

One more thing to remember with the D610 and optical flash control. When using the pop-up as a CLS "Commander", any setting other than "--" for the pop-up flash output will almost certainly result in your shutter speed not being permitted to exceed the "Auto FP" sync setting, normally 1/200sec. (At least that's the way my D750 works).

As long as the pop-up is set at "--", the camera will permit any shutter speed up to 1/4000. Your off-camera sb910 and yn-568ex will then be able to use their HSS /Auto FP sync capabilities to light the scene, or add fill as needed...as long as they can see the Commander... and their available power permits it.

"Image size" is only available if you selected some type of JPEG storage (either JPEG or Raw+Jpeg) in "Image Quality". It determines the dimensions of the image (width & height) in pixels of the stored jpeg, and it is dependent on your "Image Area" setting. It appears to allow in-camera "jpeg downsizing" during the initial storage.

"Image size" does not change the amount of sensor used, but "Image area" will.

Image Size, Image Quality, Image Area, Jpeg Compression, and NEF(Raw) Recording, all combine to give the user lots of latitude during setup.

Pressing the ? button while in each of these menu items will provide some degree of help for each function.

If I wanted to use optical (which I seldom do), and I had sporadic problems, I would probably:

1.) Double check all settings on the remotes and the Commander (channel, grp, mode, power, zoom).
2.) Make sure both flash units have nicely charged batteries.
3.) Test one flash at a time with the commander, starting close and working away.
4.) Make sure the flash units are given adequate recycle time between shots.
5.) Be aware of anything that might interfere with line of sight (camera angle change, model movement, other bright lights, sunlight)

As you use OCF more and more, I think you will probably migrate to radio. It's just so much more versatile, and not nearly as expensive as it was not too many years ago.