I believe if you dig a bit deeper into the Hassalblad attachment you will find that you should consider it more of a LENS attachment for your phone's camera than a CAMERA attachment for your phone. Verizon was correct in their statement that the Hassalbled attachment does not give you additional DSLR-like controls over you phone camera, but they are not giving you a completely accurate answer either.

Smartphone cameras are actually interesting devices for people who like to experiment and play. The basic hardware is built into the phone itself, but if you go to your app store(s) and look up cameras you will find a number of software apps that give you all kinds of controls similar to your DSLR that you typically do not see on the base camera software that came out-of-the-box with your phone. Keep in mind that a phone's camera sensor is SMALL and you should not expect the same quality of image that you would get from a DSLR, but for a 'always in your pocket' point-and-shoot it can be quite handy. Especially, again, if you take the time to play with some of the additional software apps available.

ACDsee and Corel are both fairly good programs, but you really haven't given much information regarding usage. Are you installing this as a work station in an office, for a store, for a family group? What are the skill levels of the people using the work station? Knowing this will help members here give a more helpful response.

Nice captures, Mike. That second one he looks like he's grinning at you, like " all right, you caught me".

I also have my old Nikon EM and 35mm, 50mm and 100mm prime lenses for that camera. As you know, the EM was a manual focus camera, so the lenses for it will never auto focus on any camera. Same goes for the aperture. I currently have a Nikon D5200 that I have used all three of those lenses on, but in order to do so I have to shoot basically full manual. Not a real problem, just a fact of life.

Having said all that, the value of the lenses are probably on a par with the value of your EM body. If you found the right person that shoots predominantly in manual mode anyway, you might get a bit more out of them, but that may be a long shot. At a guess, I might say that the best way to get any significant monetary gain from that equipment may be to donate the bodies and lenses to a school that still teaches film photography and get a receipt for a tax write-off.

Mike, welcome to the forum. Editing software is always an often asked question on here, and for good reason. You have SOOoooo many options. I personally feel it is better to start with something easy, give your confidence a boost, then work your way up when trying to teach yourself

As a new user, I would recommend basic, easy, and already available to you. I know nothing about Apple's Photos, but many on here say it is quite good. You also should have software that came with your camera. If you are not able to find the software that came with your camera, try the link below, choose the Software button at the top of the page.

http://downloadcenter.nikonimglib.com/en/products/8/D80.html

Once you get started working with basic editing, you will probably figure out pretty quick whether basic software is enough or if you want to move up to something more in-depth.

I agree with those that say Phototshop is the Gold Standard. Photoshop does a LOT, some of which you may not use. But there are a ton of tutorials, both written and video; and you don't have to learn it all at one time. Find a function that you really want to use, load a tutorial, and master that. When you want to try something else , you'll be ready. Before you know it, you'll know more about the software than you ever thought you would learn.

Again, welcome to the forum, nd happy shooting.

Even though the F1.8 aperture should give you many happy returns in shutter speed at low light, you still may have to focus more on technique with that lens (deep breath, let half of it out, gently stroke the shutter button...). But ultimately, is that a bad thing?

Welcome aboard!! There are a lot of sub-forums here (HDR, Long Exposure, Digital Processing, etc.) if you're looking for specialized topics. Discussions can get heated at times, but there's always a lot to learn.

On my computer I currently have full Photoshop w/HDR module, NIK HDR Efex and Photomatix. While Photomatix is usually my go to, I have had times where I preferred the outcome of PS or NIK to Photomatix.

I have also, on numerous occasions, produced quite acceptable "HDR" effects simply by using the basic tools in Photoshop (saturation, vibrance, exposure, contrast/brightness, etc.) without having to resort to firing up additional software. I have frequently achieved results I been more pleased with using this method than I have achieved using dedicated HDR software.

Exactly!!

Although I don't have the experience of Apaflo, for what it's worth I completely agree with him.

Part of the beauty of digital photography is processing is cheap. You don't have to pay another company to process each shot you take. That's not to say you shouldn't get the best shot you can out-of-camera. But you can inexpensively experiment all you want with different styles without paying a fortune in prints.

Try everything, find the style that best fits your likes.

Dude, this has everything! A new sun, an old ruin and a broad, empty plain to carry it all in. Very well done with the processing. A work to be proud of.

Your Vivitar lens should work on your D5300. I have 3 older E-Series lenses left over from my old Nikon EM 35mm that work on my D5200. The article linked below might help in sorting out older lenses.

http://www.dpreview.com/articles/6287665194/understanding-old-nikon-lenses-ai-ai-s-af-and-af-s

Wow. I had just recently convinced myself that if I ever did get my conceal-and-carry I would most likely go with a .45 auto, with a .380 auto as a backup. After checking out the specs on this I think I just changed my mind. Would want to go with the version with 3" barrel that handles up to 3" .410 mag rounds. 5 rounds alternating of .45 LC and .410 mag with 000 buckshot can't help but get the job done.

All the time. I typically use Photomatix or NIK HDR FX Pro. I have HDR function built into my D5200 but have yet to use it. Using software (in my opinion) gives me much more control over the final outcome and lets me choose whether I want a "mild or wild" final product.