I believe your links point to the 2015 service advisory. The nikonusa index page where the 2015 and 2017 advisories are both listed is here:

http://www.nikonusa.com/en/service-and-support/service-advisories/index.page

I found this link amusing. It was right below the video of a guy telling how to make 200k per year.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rALM8rU0p8g

It weighs 2.6 lbs. The load capacity is 8.8 lbs. But at 51" max height it is not very tall.

Or, you can just buy one of the convertible tripod/monopods that come with one removable leg.

You and I are both wasting time commenting on this thread. The OP posts several images each time he visits the forum. He has yet to respond to a single comment made by anyone on his threads. To date, his topics created count and messages posted count are equal. Apparently, any form of social interaction is not a priority.

I believe that all topics were originally posted in the wrong section. It would seem that admin should be getting tired of moving them by now.

Welcome to the forum. Your question was recently asked by another member. Here are the responses:

http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-455910-1.html

I can't give a real world evaluation on the 24-120 since I don't own one. But, I will say, based on the DXOmark evaluation of the lens, and your intended use, I would pass on the lens, and buy only the camera.

If I wanted a lens to add to the 50mm 1.8, it would be the Nikon AFS-S 85mm 1.8g. It is probably Nikon's best rated lens for the price(still under $500 new).

I own the 24-70 2.8. It is a wonderful lens. And, it is a lens that spends a lot of time sitting inside my camera bag. The Nikon 85mm 1.8g, and the Sigma 50mm 1.4 Art, stay on my d750 more than my other lenses. Fast primes are very hard to beat for portraits.

And, as for my evaluation of the camera... buy it, you'll love it.

If the 85mm is already causing you to get closer to your subjects than you really want, changing to a 50mm will only make matters worse.

You realize you will be losing 3 1/2 - 4 stops of light catching ability by changing to the 70-300. It does have VR so that may help a bit using lower shutter speeds, but you are pretty much guaranteed to be using higher iso settings.

I have the 70-300, and it is also not nearly as sharp as the 85mm at any focal length or f/stop. But, it will let you stand off from your subject, and it is relatively light. You can get bokeh with the 70-300, but I doubt it will be as pleasing as any that you get with your 85mm 1.4.

If you want similar light catching ability and just a bit more reach you might look at the Nikon 105 1.4 or Sigma 135 1.8. (if cost is no object). But, then there's the weight issue.

I'm afraid he was mistaken.

In TTL, the flash fires twice for each exposure... as I'm sure you know. The 'camera' (not the flash) evaluates the pre-flash exposure of your composed scene based on it's metering setting, and sends power corrections to the flash for the 2nd firing.

The flash IR sensor may need to see the camera's command flash if being controlled optically, but that is for communication only. The pre-flash exposure is what is evaluated. And, the evaluation is done by the camera, not by any flash.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VnU-QHIyp5o

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MF0V19TBs60

I'm sure that powerful interceptor might have 350hp... if he meant seahorses... or maybe horse-flies.

Alright, I did a little more experimenting with the remote. I also noticed that I never asked how you want to focus on the subjects in your composition.
I will make assumptions again. Since you said you normally use BBF, I am assuming you have Custom Menu A1 and A2 both normally set to release, and that you (like me) shoot with the autofocus set to AF-C normally. Using these as your normal settings just do the following to use the ml-l3:

If your composition is static and you want to focus yourself, step back, and trigger the shutter with the remote then:

1. Turn on the remote in-camera as we have discussed.
2. Focus on the desired area in your composition.
3. Move away from camera (assuming it's on a tri-pod)
4. Activate shutter with remote. It will fire without changing focus.

If you want to move into the scene yourself and then focus:

1. Repeat step 1 above.
2. Change Custom menu A1 to 'Focus' (assuming again, you use AF-C normally. But, if you use AF-S change A2 instead)
3. Select a focus point in the composition where you intend to be.
4. Move into the scene
5. Activate remote. It will acquire focus and then fire. If it cannot acquire focus, it will not fire.

When you finish, change A1 back to 'Release'.

Nothing more complicated is required. The ml-l3 does not have a half-press setting for focusing. It relies on the A1, A2 and focus point(s) settings to determine whether or not to alter the current state of focus.

Not sure what you mean by even if the screen goes off. I can review images already taken, or I can enter and exit 'Live View' without affecting the ml-l3 setting in the camera. It's only when I turn off the camera that the setting reverts to off. And, I have a habit of turning my camera off and on a good bit more than I really need to do.

As I said before, the setting is apparently not 'sticky' and therefore must be reset each time you power up. I am not aware of any way to alter that.

I see also in the user manual that there is a time limit before the ml-l3 reverts back to off. If no shots are taken within the time limit it turns off. The minimum time is 1 min and the max setting is 15 min between shots. This timer is adjusted via 'Custom Settings Menu' C5. Mine is set for 15 minutes. Having it at the max apparently can eat battery life faster.

You're welcome. I hope that solves your problem. If not, and it's not working at all, the only other thing I can think of is to re-check that your 'new' battery is seated properly in the ml-l3, and that nothing is obstructing the IR beam.

A conditional, yes, at least on the D750 and D7xxx. Goto whatever mode you want to use. I will simply use Manual mode as an example:

1. Goto Manual Mode.
2. Modify settings in the 'Custom Settings Menu' to turn off BBF.
3. 'Save User Settings' to U1 or U2 in the 'Setup Menu'.
4. Undo your changes while still in Manual Mode, but do not save these changes to a User mode again.
5. Done. The user mode button where the settings were saved will be a 'saved copy' of your manual settings, but using normal AF on the release button.

The 'Custom Settings Menu' may be slightly different between Camera bodies. For my D750, I had to change 'Custom Menu F4' from BBF to normal, and since I had also assigned the preview button to Front button focus, I also had to change 'Custom Menu F3' back to normal. Some people may also want to modify Custom Menu A1 or A2. But, on the D750, AF will revert to normal without modifying the last two.

Edit: Sorry, I apparently mis-read your question. I thought you had BBF 'ON' in all regular modes and wanted normal AF assigned to one or more user modes. Anyway, the procedure is the same(only reverse the modifications). Modify settings in one area, and save the changes to a user mode selection (U1,U2), then un-do your changes in the original mode.

Which problem are you having? Is it not working at all? Or, is the AF not functioning as you want it to work?

I finally found my ml-l3, and it works fine with my D750 both with BBF and without BBF. I must make sure to turn on the ml-l3 function in the 'Shooting Menu'.

If I have AF-S release mode set to focus, it will fire only after locking focus on 'something' in the scene (depending on the AF area and not using BBF). With BBF, both AF-S and AF-C are set to 'release' so it always fires (as long as it sees the signal from the remote).

I did notice that if I turned 'on' the ml-l3 function while in any mode, and then powered down, it reverted to 'off' again next time I turned on the camera. This apparently cannot be overridden by saving to U1 or U2. So it looks like every time I want to use it, I must re-check that setting in the Shooting Menu. I guess Nikon doesn't want to risk random infra-red signals tripping the shutter. So, it is not a 'sticky' setting.