Another link that you might find useful is: http://www.nikonusa.com/en/learn-and-explore/article/h20zakgu/how-to-photograph-a-solar-eclipse.html
I reserved a campsite in Wyoming that is in the path of this eclipse, but I understand places to stay are getting hard to find.

If you have a photo printer, try my method...
Start with a copy of the image in Photoshop. Size that image to the largest image you would like to have and then crop down on an important part of the image to a size that you can print. Make a test print of the cropped image and see what it looks like at the distance you expect your photo to be viewed. This test method takes into account the many variables an individual image may present and lets you make the decision based on your own judgement.

I've just started using XQD cards a couple of months ago and impressed by the speed when compared to the CF cards I've been using. I was surprised to find that SanDisk hasn't embraced the format, especially since I've read that they were one of the companies that collaborated in the design of the XQD format. The combination of substantially higher read/write speed and not using delicate pins (like the CF card) gives me hope that the format will continue until something even better becomes available.

I have the f2.8 zoom lenses covering from 17 to 200mm, a 200-400 f4, a 200-500mm f5.6 and two 18-200mm. I have two 18-200mm Nikon lenses to avoid fights with my wife. It's a great lens...light weight and incredibly useful, that sees more use than any of our lenses except maybe for the 70-200mm. I photograph an entry in three parades each year and I don't ever want to go back to carrying the heavier lenses and juggling them to change lenses while moving with a parade. The lens isn't quite as sharp and the f2.8 zoom lenses I mentioned and it may have more distortion, but it isn't objectionable and LR does a great job of correcting for it anyhow. The one problem I've found is that if you use the lense a lot, expect it to have to go back to Nikon for service at some point.

I've been using Intuos tablets for many years. The advice of a photo retouch artist at Photoshop World that I took a couple of classes with was get an "Intuos tablet, medium size. You don't want anything smaller or larger." I've found that advice to have been excellent. I have one in the case with my laptop and another on my desk in my studio. The current model I'm using is an Intuos Pro (model PTH-651). The levels of sensitivity are something that really doen't matter to me. They've increased over the years, but they have all been more than adequate. I use flow and density in LR and Photoshop to control effects when post processing. One warning...once you use one you will absolutely hate retouching a photograph without one. They improve your work, make it easier, and faster.

Slightly off topic, but I think it is a worth while addition to the thread when talking about non-OEM products. I have no knowledge about Wasabi batteries and do not mean to imply anything derogatory about them. My comments are intended as a general advice of caution when dealing with this type of battery. Major computer companies, major electronic companies, and cell phone companies have had problems with exploding Lithium Ion batteries. This is one location for more information on the subject. http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/safety_concerns_with_li_ion

I have had experience with rechargeable Lithium Ion batteries for flashlights as well as for cameras. Drawing from my experience with Lithium Ion flashlight batteries and their chargers, all are NOT equal and some are dangerous. A charger should shut off when the battery is at maximum charge and not continue a trickle feed to avoid overcharging if the battery is left on the charger. An over charged battery can explode either in the charger or in the device using that battery. There are numerous documented cases of exploding Lithium Ion batteries have resulted in sever burns and hospital stays for both flashlight users and 'vapers.' My personal opinion is that a battery needs quality protective circuitry to prevent over charging. The potential for injury is sufficient that I also want a charger that has circuitry to prevent it from over charging a battery. Double protection is not being overly cautious.

There have been cases of counterfeit batteries so purchasing only from reliable sources is also a reasonable precaution.

I'll second the suggestion to use the Piriform program Recuva. I used it last year to recover a file that appeared to have been deleted from a firm's computers by an unkown person with malevolent intent. Others failed in their attempts before I used Recuva and suceeded.

Hi Rhonda, Thanks for posting your photos...you clearly have a great eye for composition and picking subjects that convey meaning beyond the framing of the photo. Your photos bring back many fond memories of the horses I've owned and who I've shared many miles of trail riding exploring the back country of Colorado (and New Jersey).

Off camera strobe gives a chance to shape the subject that is useful and will never be replaced solely by having enough light if the light isn't also coming from the right direction. That's why multiple strobes and different light modifiers are so useful (necessary?) in a studio. Whether shooting on location portraits or indoor events, radio controlled off camera lighting opens up many creative possibilities.

There is enough arguing and fighting on political sites and the daily news. Photography is a chance to get away from it (unless of course we're photographing a politico from the other party (which ever that might be)).

I photographed my first wedding almost 50 years ago and if you haven't shoot one, you can't imagine how much work it is to do a professional job (when was the last time you retouched a thousand photos). It is hard work that you have to make look easy. Lighting conditions are frequently (always?) challenging and, while it may be personal preference, I believe using a flash during the service is an unacceptable interruption of a sacrament (plus the person who is officiating is going to get annoyed if you blind him). This means fast lenses and a camera body that is good at higher ISO settings. You also should have a second shooter (who can double with helping to pose groups) because one photographer can't be at two places at the same time.

The photographer needs to know where he needs to be and be there before the opportunity for the photo occurs. They will need fast lenses covering from extreme wide angle to 200mm. Zoom lenses are preferred because of the speed at which you need to adapt to changing opportunities and the lack of time to change lenses. My personal choices are a 17 to 35mm f2.8, 24-70mm f2.8, a 70-200mm f2.8, and a 50mm f1.4. You need to have a professional quality back up for every piece of equipment because Murphy was an optimist and failure is unacceptable.

My favorite problem wedding was a wedding that the bride said was going to be inside. I replied, no problem. She then told me it was at night and I said, no problem. Finally she told me it was going to be by candle light and I realized there was going to be a problem.

I photography a LOT of events with political speakers and frequently put my camera in high-speed drive in order to get the best image possible. Many people have highly mobile faces when speaking and that frequently makes the number of 'less than flattering' images to acceptable images 10 to 1 or worse. Silent mode slows the camera down too much and it isn't possible to accurately time when a speaker's face is going to be in what we 'see' as a normal position. It's unacceptable to finish an event without great images of each speaker. The good news is that in high-speed mode, the D5 is quieter than the D3 and the D500 is much quieter than even the D5. In the film days I still used a motor drive on my F2, it just didn't rock along at 10 frames a second. Technology is improving!