Wow. Excellent post and comment thread. Very informative. We need more of this and less..well, I'll just leave it at that.

They are never accurate. Ironic for a site serving people who claim devotion to accuracy.

Fuji X20. F2.0 to 2.8. Slightly larger EXR Sensor does very well in low light/ high ISO. Jacket pocketable.

(Or a used X10 like I use)

Some of the adapters have a stop down ring that you twist after you have composed and set aperture. Otherwise it shoots wide open no matter what f\stop you set.

Right. Just responding to Big Bear and his suggestion of using a flash as opposed to the 50 1.8

Nothing keeping you from stopping down the 50 and mounting a flash.

Shot the indoor part of a wedding with the 50 1.8. Very nice results. And let's not forget, pretty damn cheap.

Third party batteries may or may not work in your OEM charger, they may or may not work with all the (superflous?) functions of newer cameras, they may hold better or worse charges than OEM batteries, they may or may not last longer than OEM batteries and they may or may not void warranties. But they will not damage your camera. How would they? And if under warranty when something goes wrong, how would the manufacturer know which battery you were using?

Semi punt; go with a used 40D. The IQ is as good as the 30D, better than the 50D (and arguably the 60D), the upgrades are worthwhile and you are already familiar with the controls and it uses the same long lasting batteries you have. Built like a tank. Shutter is made for 100K clicks and many for sale have used just a fraction of that.With the money you save you can invest in some very nice glass (although contrary to what was said your 18-55 is a good lens, to this day). Keep your 30D as back up or a second camera mounting a different lens.

I seriously doubt that anyone can take better pictures with newer equipment, unless they need video, art filters or want to make posters. (Though I've seen great posters shot with 30 and 40Ds)

All things being equal, then yes, no difference. But all lenses are not equal and in my experience you will get marginally different results between different, yet similar in quality lenses. Including DOF and light gathering capabilities.

I think a bridge pretty much needs to physically mimic a dslr especially including the equivalent of a through the lens viewfinder.

I miss my old S5 IS. Have yet to try anything as nice made today. Longer reach, maybe. But that was a sweet camera when it came to handling.

Got two that are over 8 years old, working great. With Kodak, older is better. On the other hand had two Canon point and shoots lose their VF zoom mechanisms. And I am a Canon DSLR shooter.

I keep an old Kodak C663, 6.1 MP with a viewfinder, in my "man purse" nearby at all times. Takes very nice shots and, though I bought it new way back when, can be found for around $35 on Amazon or EBay.

But what about uploading to the computer? Faster writing means faster reading, so it can make sense to use a card faster than your camera needs.

Just thinking the same thing. Unless it's because of short term memory loss? "Now where DID I take that picture?"