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Issues with IR RAW shooting
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Mar 2, 2016 22:44:39   #
Peterff Loc: O'er The Hills and Far Away, in Themyscira.
 
Bloke wrote:


Time for bed said Zebedee...


And not with Dougal said Florence! :lol: :lol: :lol:

Gosh, that's been a long time!

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Mar 2, 2016 23:05:51   #
JimH123 Loc: Morgan Hill, CA
 
Bloke wrote:
I do understand about doing the channel swap. I don't get far enough in the process to make that worth while is my issue. If I swap the channels where I am at, I just end up with a very heavy blue colour cast, rather than red. It's trying to get the white balance to a sensible level which is driving me crazy!

See below...


The camera WB needs to be matched to green grass or green leaves. Or if you don't have any of those, just set it really low. The result is going to be a value that is down in the 2000's. If the WB is not set properly, the channel swap won't be of any value.

When the WB is set first, the channel swap will get the image very close to where you want it to be. And then after channel swap, tweak like you would any regular picture. At this point, the WB adjust in Lightroom might have to be moved a little to get the effect you want to see. But it shouldn't be very far that it has to be adjusted.

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Mar 2, 2016 23:05:55   #
rebride
 
Bloke wrote:

Ok, I just exported a jpeg from the raw file in LR, and I will include the camera-jpeg for comparison


The camera-jpeg has had an in-camera (custom) white balance of some sort.
The LR exported raw file jpeg conversion seems to have converted back to 'daylight' white balance.
Does not LR have an 'As Shot' option for white balance in raw editing?

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Mar 2, 2016 23:15:13   #
bwana Loc: Bergen, Alberta, Canada
 
JimH123 wrote:
Certainly he can do this to get more range. But it doesn't solve the issue he is working. The image HAS TO HAVE the channel swap to get the pseudo color look. Changes WB causes all colors to move in the same direction. But they have to be swapped to get the look.

And then it can be adjusted in normal ways.


I do believe the OP is trying to get a good IR image without channel swapping and he can do it using a two pass approach in Lightroom...

Personally, I also prefer the channel swap approach; however, it doesn't appear to be what the OP is looking for?

bwa

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Mar 2, 2016 23:22:47   #
JimH123 Loc: Morgan Hill, CA
 
Bloke wrote:
I eventually got to spend my halfhour on the phone with the expert from LifePixel, but I am having trouble getting my head around what he told me.

Firstly, I expected a 'shared-screen' setup, like you get with decent tech support operations, so I could demonstrate what I am getting. They can't do that, so I was left trying to explain to him the stuff I have been trying so hard to explain in this thread... The stuff he was showing me was the same as my watching one of his videos, and not a whole lot of help.

His comments:

1. You have to work in manual; if you use AV or TV, you will end up with an unrecoverable red cast... Huh? For a given exposure value, how on Earth can it matter which camera mode selected the settings? I spend 90% of my time in AV, so what difference does it make if *I* set the shutter speed, or have the camera set that same speed? I cannot for the life of me see how that can cause a different colour cast...

NONSENSE! -- You can pick your mode.

2. Lightroom is a waste of time, and cannot process these images...

Lightroom adjustments before the Channel Swap are useless. But after Channel Swap, it is fine.

3. The reason that DPP is showing the embedded jpeg instead of the raw image, is because I shot raw+jpeg... Double-huh? So, I open a .CR2 file in a program, and this program somehow deduces that there is an equivalent .jpg of this image in a different folder on my PC, and opens that file instead... ????? He said that shooting raw only should solve all my problems... Again, once that raw file is on my PC, there is no way for any software to know whether I shot a jpeg with it!

AGAIN NON-SENSE! I regularly shoot RAW + JPEG. The JPEG is for me to look at the images while in the camera. And I set the camera to B&W. I can judge what I am doing from the B&W JPEG, but RAW still records color. I normally import into Lightroom, and then channel swap in Photshop since it can be called from Lightroom. And when done, I return to Lightroom for final tweaks.

None of these points has been raised in *any* of the videos I have watched on the subject, *even* those on the LifePixel site, which I believe are narrated by him!

To be honest, I am so confused right now, that I can hardly figure out which way is up... Having been on the go since 5 this morning isn't helping any either!

I guess I need to wait for another decent weather day to shoot some more images, using manual mode and doing a custom WB. He says that using a custom WB will not work with images shot in any other mode but manual. How the software on my PC knows that is beyond me. Anyway, I have to at least *try* his method.

AGAIN NON-SENSE! You can shoot in any mode in which the camera is not going to override your manual WB setting. You need to stay away from the various names for idiot mode that the cameras offer. If you can turn a knob and make it emulate a Point n Shoot, it is not the mode you want to be in. It has to retain the custom WB mode that you set up.

Oh, and in all his years of training people, he has never seen a system where the programs (except LR & PS) will appear to open the embedded jpeg and not display the raw image. I swear that is what I have happening here, but it is impossible to prove since I can't send my raw file through email.

If you don't use Photoshop, just download the free RAW Therapee program. I find that it pays no attention to the JPEG when you tell it to open the RAW. It channel swaps just as good as Photoshop does.


None of the software methods I have seen on any of the dozens of videos I have watched over the past couple of months is any help. They all explain either DPP or the DNGProfileEditor almost as a throw-away, like "you do this, and that is the result..." Except when I do *this* I don't get *that*... If you have followed the thread, you will know what I am talking about.

I had high hopes for this session tonight, and thought he would be able to help me see what is going on. Instead, he has just thrown so many new issues out there, that my head is spinning.

Time for bed said Zebedee...
I eventually got to spend my halfhour on the phone... (show quote)


In summary:

1) Custom white balance on green grass. Make a mental note of the setting. Sometimes there is no green grass to be found. Set it to the same value manually. My camera remembers the custom WB setting and all I need to do is return to custom and its there.

2) Channel Swap the RAW

3) Do your final tweaks

This is all that it takes. Almost all of my shots turn out as expected using these steps.


And are you sure this expert has actual taken IR shots and manipulated them before he talked to you???? You got some BUM advice.

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Mar 3, 2016 00:18:00   #
sueyeisert Loc: New Jersey
 
When you export the profile make sur Lightroom is closed.

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Mar 3, 2016 05:58:52   #
blackest Loc: Ireland
 
Bloke wrote:
I eventually got to spend my halfhour on the phone with the expert from LifePixel,
His comments:

1. You have to work in manual; if you use AV or TV, you will end up with an unrecoverable red cast... Huh? For a given exposure value, how on Earth can it matter which camera mode selected the settings? I spend 90% of my time in AV, so what difference does it make if *I* set the shutter speed, or have the camera set that same speed? I cannot for the life of me see how that can cause a different colour cast...
I eventually got to spend my halfhour on the phone... (show quote)


I think it is a question of exposure. The camera can try to calculate a shutter speed for an aperture or an aperture for a shutter speed for visible light you are assuming this will be the same when shooting infrared. Even focus is changed on old manual lenses there was an ir line for film shooting infrared film.

So if the camera doesn't know the right exposure you need to experiment. For me i would take a series of exposures at a single aperture a fixed iso and a range of shutter speeds. Take note of what the camera is suggesting should be the correct speed. You will probably want to use this to figure out an offset for future occasions.

Hopefully this will find you an exposure which works, now your camera will be able to tell you what it thinks the exposure should be and you can over ride it in manual to what works.

The camera is still trying to record red blue green light and with the conversion red will dominate.

You will want to look at the individual channels in post turning off two channels to see the third this will now be black & white. You may find that the best image is a single channel.

walk do not run :) this is new and you are going to find some things to trip you up.

I haven't played with IR for a while but I used Gimp for the shots i took. I was using an infrared filter which gave me slow exposures as I had to overcome the camera's infrared filter.

One thing I did was a levels adjustment for each channel. raising the blue and green channels. before doing the channel swop.

If you can see a histogram for the 3 color channels on your camera try and ensure you are not blowing the highlights in the red. If you blow them you may still get a useable image in the blue or green channels, black & white of course.

People have suggested alternative software for doing the raw conversion, maybe try some of them raw therapy for example is free.

Lightroom may not be the tool for the job. You may be trying to use a hammer when a screwdriver is called for :) Sometimes a change is needed.

hope that helps, have fun

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Mar 3, 2016 06:11:47   #
sueyeisert Loc: New Jersey
 
I've been doing infrared now for 5 years. If you're not converting to b&W then you need to create an accurate white balance. There are some cameras that can't do it in camera. Using the camera manufactures proprietary software will give you a correct white balance. Another software that will also work is Capture One. Their white balance slider will go down lower than Lightroom.

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Mar 3, 2016 07:33:43   #
Bloke Loc: Waynesboro, Pennsylvania
 
Quite a few messages overnight. I am not ignoring anything, but have to leave very soon for work. I will respond later, when I get back.

Thanks...

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Mar 3, 2016 16:23:32   #
Bloke Loc: Waynesboro, Pennsylvania
 
Peterff wrote:
And not with Dougal said Florence! :lol: :lol: :lol:

Gosh, that's been a long time!


Wondered if anyone on here would get that one...

Reply
Mar 3, 2016 16:24:35   #
Bloke Loc: Waynesboro, Pennsylvania
 
bwana wrote:
I do believe the OP is trying to get a good IR image without channel swapping and he can do it using a two pass approach in Lightroom...

Personally, I also prefer the channel swap approach; however, it doesn't appear to be what the OP is looking for?

bwa


No, that is not what I am trying. I need to get an image which is worth channel-swapping. Everything is red, if I swap the channels, everything is blue. It is *not* a proper image.

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Mar 3, 2016 16:25:23   #
Bloke Loc: Waynesboro, Pennsylvania
 
JimH123 wrote:
The camera WB needs to be matched to green grass or green leaves. Or if you don't have any of those, just set it really low. The result is going to be a value that is down in the 2000's. If the WB is not set properly, the channel swap won't be of any value.

When the WB is set first, the channel swap will get the image very close to where you want it to be. And then after channel swap, tweak like you would any regular picture. At this point, the WB adjust in Lightroom might have to be moved a little to get the effect you want to see. But it shouldn't be very far that it has to be adjusted.
The camera WB needs to be matched to green grass o... (show quote)


Did that. Nope. No difference... See next post...

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Mar 3, 2016 16:33:52   #
Bloke Loc: Waynesboro, Pennsylvania
 
Ok, I had to run a field trip this morning, so I took my camera along in the hope of getting some sunshine. It wasn't great, but I figured it was workable.

I tried following through on what the instructor told me to do, pretty much. He was adamant that it had to be shot in manual mode, but if the light is bright enough to take the photo, I can't see the screen! My conversion was to use the Live View for focus.

Anyway, I shot in Av, set to f8, and let the shutter speed fall where it may.

I took a custom white balance on the grass, following exactly what the camera manual says.

I shot raw only, since he figured that added jpegs was somehow messing up my raw images... Don't see how, but I went along with it.

Came back home, uploaded the images, changed nothing.

I cannot upload the raw image, but what I have here are jpeg screenshots of the raw image opened in both DPP and PSCC. Now, remember, there is no jpeg version of this shot in existence...

What I am still trying to figure out is, how can I use DPP to remove a red cast which shows up in PS/camera raw, if that cast does not show up in DPP??? I am assuming that DPP is opening an embedded jpeg, which the raw would use for icons, thumbnails, and suchlike. But why? You can see that the colour temp in camera raw is set hard over to the left...

This is in DPP. As you can see, it appears fine and ready for channel swapping and further processing.
This is in DPP.   As you can see, it appears fine ...
(Download)

This is exactly the same file opened in PS CC.
This is exactly the same file opened in PS CC....
(Download)

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Mar 3, 2016 16:45:57   #
sueyeisert Loc: New Jersey
 
You have to save the 'good' raw capture as a jpeg or tif and export it. Whatever software you are going to use you need to learn it. You can't wing it.
Bloke wrote:
Ok, I had to run a field trip this morning, so I took my camera along in the hope of getting some sunshine. It wasn't great, but I figured it was workable.

I tried following through on what the instructor told me to do, pretty much. He was adamant that it had to be shot in manual mode, but if the light is bright enough to take the photo, I can't see the screen! My conversion was to use the Live View for focus.

Anyway, I shot in Av, set to f8, and let the shutter speed fall where it may.

I took a custom white balance on the grass, following exactly what the camera manual says.

I shot raw only, since he figured that added jpegs was somehow messing up my raw images... Don't see how, but I went along with it.

Came back home, uploaded the images, changed nothing.

I cannot upload the raw image, but what I have here are jpeg screenshots of the raw image opened in both DPP and PSCC. Now, remember, there is no jpeg version of this shot in existence...

What I am still trying to figure out is, how can I use DPP to remove a red cast which shows up in PS/camera raw, if that cast does not show up in DPP??? I am assuming that DPP is opening an embedded jpeg, which the raw would use for icons, thumbnails, and suchlike. But why? You can see that the colour temp in camera raw is set hard over to the left...
Ok, I had to run a field trip this morning, so I t... (show quote)

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Mar 3, 2016 16:57:33   #
Bloke Loc: Waynesboro, Pennsylvania
 
sueyeisert wrote:
You have to save the 'good' raw capture as a jpeg or tif and export it. Whatever software you are going to use you need to learn it. You can't wing it.


what do you mean? I have not *done* anything to these images in any software yet. All I have done is open them.

I have been using PS since version 5 - not CS5, 5. Pretty sure I know how to open a file... I have never used DPP before, and never had a need to. How much do you suggest I need to learn, in order to follow along a couple of basic steps demonstrated on a video? Nowhere in any of the videos I have watched did it say anything about saving a tiff. They all say "use DPP to get rid of the colour cast", except it doesn't *have* a colour cast when opened in DPP!

Did you even read the post? I opened the same image in 2 different programs, and took a screen capture of each. That is it.

I just tried to follow your suggestion. When I select <save as> in DPP, it gives me the option of CR2. That's all, there is no option to save as a tiff or jpeg. Sounds like maybe I am not the one who needs to learn this particular piece of software, hm?

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