Both

I know that the original image is dark. I know that it's a JPG. I know that I could have processed it more, but I left the original and resulting images as-is.

I was running a test. I wanted to see what each of the three software products would do for noise reduction in their 'automatic' AI noise reduction processes (without any help from me) and I shared those results here for review of those results only.

Understood. It does work better with the raw files, but I didn't have a really noisy one to test out.

No, I was working without a flash and the backlight boggled my metering.

On a recent trip to Central Utah, I captured this image of a rock structure and surroundings in a BLM land area that is fairly well known in the locals, but would suffer greatly if hordes of tourists showed up.

Early morning hike (in the dark) to get here and took lots of images from different angles with various lens combinations.

I'm happiest with this one, using my trusty old EF 35mm F1.4L (the ORIGINAL) that I usually use for street photography. However in this instance, it gave me what I consider an airiness and almost surreal image quality.

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I started thinking about the new AI noise reduction features from various software manufacturers and decided to test an old noisy .JPG image with the products I have. I tested On1, Luminar and Topaz to see which I felt was better 'straight out of the box'.

These tests are for the 'AI' functions only. No additional tweaking was done as I just wanted to see how the 'intelligent' features operated by themselves. I have a favorite, but prefer not to skew the results.

I don't have the latest Lightroom and if someone wanted to try Adobe's latest AI Noise Reduction on the Original JPG for comparison, that would be great.

Thanking you all in advance for any comments and/or critiques.

Original JPG:

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W-9 is no big deal with regards to personal information. Businesses can get way more information on you if you use a credit or debit card for your purchases with them.

I did accounting for a 501-3c for years and the request for a W-9 from vendors (actual & potential) is pretty standard, even if the payouts are less than $600. I do agree to keep this payment you receive noted separately and you DO need to file income from the 1099 you may get from them though, even for this small amount.

Some bored IRS person might flag even a $1 discrepancy from 'reported' to 'actual' income. Don't ask me how I know.

Well, based on some of the severely (and sometimes stupidly) doctored images I've seen posted, I'd say let 'er ride with something like Thomas902's description.

Agree with Jim70 regarding shoulder bags vs. backpacks. I have a shoulder bag (older ThinkTank) which is really a great bag, but it is not something I'd carry for miles anymore.

Body attached 24-70 or 16-35 fits in both of the above. Attached zoom does fit in the Mini-Trekker AW.

I have 3-4 bags and a couple of backpacks, all different mfgs.

That said, my normal go-to bag is an old Lowepro Stealth Reporter D300 AW. Fits a large body, 3 larger lenses (including a 100-400 zoom) along with extra batteries, cords, straps, small flash, blower and the ubiquitous Zeiss Wipes.

Backpack for most usage is an older Lowepro Mini-Trekker AW. Fits everything the Stealth bag does, plus an extra body and larger flash.

Both bags appear to be almost bulletproof.

JUST came back from that area. 24-70 for 90% of my images. 100-400 for about 8% (animals and far-away rock structures) and 16-35 for the slot canyons (and two low-angle railway images).

Yup.

I shoot a lot of outdoor during the winter and condensation from temperature variations can be a problem if you don't prepare for it. I leave the lenses and body unassembled (and in the camera bag or pack), then in the cold truck for at least four hours prior to shooting. I will then wipe the contacts with a microfiber cloth to remove residual condensation before assembling. The contacts are important as they carry the power for the focus motors and stabilization controls. Low current flow due to poor electrical connections does make those functions very sluggish in the cold. Also, I take an extra battery or two (or more depending on the length of my shoot) that are kept warm. Batteries discharge quickly in the cold.

The above works for me and my 16-35, 24-70, 100-400 and primes down to about -15F. Below that there are other things you must consider (like constant warm battery swaps).

A TC would add two extra sets of contacts into the mix, so just more bits of electrical resistance for the stabilization and focus motor power if they're not clean.

My extreme RV buddies use the Jackery products for power and solar combinations. Supposedly these are the best for rough situations, but they are pricey. https://www.jackery.com/

Their 1000-watt power station/dual solar panel combo runs about $1,500 US. The single panel unit is about $1,200 US. 500-watt power station/single panel combo runs about $800 US.

1,000 watt power station alone weighs in at around 22 lbs (10 Kg), 500 watt station weighs 14 lbs (6+ Kg), so that has to be taken into account.