I like this result. A few things to consider:

1) Consider using a slightly smaller aperture. This image reports f/8. I'd go with f/11 in this situation, but this is an artistic decision where f/8 to f/13 for this type of scene would all be appropriate, based on personal preferences.

2) Consider using a single AF point and tell the camera to focus 1/3 to 1/2 into the frame, say on the grass just below the center of the frame, by the lily pads in the water, or where the short grass merges with the taller grass almost at the exact center.

3) Consider shooting a bit lower to the water so the grass in the foreground is more of a subject of the image, say with an AF point on the clump in the foreground that partially obscures the lily pads closest to the camera. With the foreground being the emphasis, I'd also work with a wider aperture, say f/5.6 down to f/13, so I come home with a wide range of options to consider in the results.

4) Take lots of images of this wonderful landscape, with minor different settings, say walking that aperture down from f/5.6 to f/13 and using the three candidate AF points mentioned above, that's about 6 shots per AF location across the aperture range, easier to do from a tripod. When you get home, figure which 1 or 2 worked best of the 20ish images, discarding the rest.

Your image reports LR. I made some additional LR updates on my end. If interested, please consider two things:

5) Confirm back you're OK with having my edits posted to your thread, that is a site guideline. Your version is a little dark and seems to lean a bit to the right. You might enable the lens profile as well. My LRv6 software is too old for this AF-P lens so I used the Nikon 14-24.

6) I sent a Private Message (PM) with my email. If you'll respond back with your email, I can give you access to a dropbox with a 'DNG' export of my edits that you can download and import into your LR catalog to see the exact edits I made.

As others said, there is nothing lacking in this image in terms of sharp focus and / or composition. When I zoom into the image, it seems the cloud nearest the center is the point of focus. The ideas mentioned above make subtle changes in shooting technique moving the emphasis of sharpest focus around the frame, until you find the composition you like best.

Am also very nearsighted with one eye 20/20 correctable the other 20/25 with glasses. My astigmatism won't allow me contacts and I am not a candidate for lasik. I learned that for stills to use Live View, which will give you the sharpest image your camera and lens are capable of as it uses Contrast Detection Auto Focus. I check my AF(Phase Detection Auto Focus) shots against LV shots to make sure my AF is working as I expect. When I have to go to manual focus or just want to check AF, my D500 shows left and right arrows and a circle between them in the lower left corner of my viewfinder. When I see the circle, I know I'm in focus. If it's hunting, Left and right arrows only, then AF is not locking in and I may have to move my focus point with the multi-selector to something with more contrast, like an edge. On my monitor, I go 1:1 to judge sharpness. When I get soft images, it's usually because of camera shake or subject motion so I use a tripod when I can and keep the shutter speed up. DOF can also be an issue, but there will almost always be part of an image that is sharp and the image will be soft in front of and behind the sharp part. Sometimes the AF system will lock on something you don't expect, so I use single point AF a lot. When using more than single point the camera tends to lock on the thing that is closest to the camera, not what you are intending. If your focus point is a small target, then the camera might focus on the background. Increasing DOF usually helps. I'm not sure any of this will help, because it is easier to get sharp images with wide angle lenses compared to longer focal length images. That leads me to question whether AF is working for your setup, so give LV on a still a shot and see if it's any better.