So! I didn’t make up that title just be cute or attract attention. If my terminology is correct, this is a set consisting of three posts, with the first one showing pictures of actual cremations. I made sure to omit any that I thought might bother anyone, but still ….. So if you are sensitive, or if the thought turns you off, please skip this post and go on to the next two. Those are perfectly benign, and I will repeat all the following information in them.
Pasbupotinoth Place, in the city of Kathmandu, Nepal
On April 25, 2015, a very powerful earthquake hit the Kathmandu Valley, right in the metaphorical heart of Nepal, destroying multiple lives along with much of its cultural treasures. My wife and I were lucky enough to have visited a few years earlier, thus were able to see some of those treasures before they literally crumbled to dust. Among them was Kathmandu’s Pasbupotinoth Place.
Located right in the middle of the sprawling city of Kathmandu, Pasbupotinoth Place stands as an awe-inspiring testament to the rich spiritual heritage of the country. This sacred site holds immense significance for Hindus worldwide, drawing pilgrims and tourists alike to witness its profound customs and rituals.
Central to the essence of Pasbupotinoth Place is the ancient Hindu practice of cremation. For generations, Hindus have revered the concept of death as a natural transition, and cremation is seen as a vital step in the soul's journey to liberation. Here, amidst the scent of incense and the echoing chants, the deceased are brought to the sacred cremation ghats (platforms) along the Bagmati River, where their bodies are set alight in the presence of mourners.
The cremation ceremonies at Pasbupotinoth Place are a deeply emotional yet spiritual affair. As in all religions' mourning traditions, families gather to perform last rites with solemnity and devotion, And specifically in the Hindu tradition, they are guided by the belief that a soul untethered from its earthly form can attain moksha (liberation) and eventually be reincarnated in a new life. But, as solemn as the tradition is, as you will see from my photographs, many of the mourners now take close up videos of the affair which, to this westerner, came off as a bit bizarre.
The Bagmati River flowing just nearby holds special significance, as the ashes are often scattered into its holy waters, symbolizing the circle of life and the interconnectedness of all living beings. Then as you will also see, those ashes are swept away as local Nepalese picnic along the opposite shores, right in full view of all these events.
And just to make sure you understand, I didn’t violate any laws or religious tenets by taking photos. When we arrived at Pasbupotinoth Place there were already many people who had their cameras out. I had mine in its case, and several policemen and a few holy men approached me and said something to the effect of “It’s okay!” “Picture taking okay.” And so I did. The only restriction I had was that, as a non Hindu, I could not cross any of the bridges to the side of the river where the cremations took place. Although I had some misgivings, I realized that it was not ethically wrong to take pictures as some of the family members of the deceased were doing the same. I always try my best to respect the laws and traditions of countries I visit, and from what I saw when we were there, photography was not just perfectly fine, it was, in fact, actually invited.
Beyond the profound cremation rituals, Pasbupotinoth Place is also renowned for its association with Sadhus. These revered ascetics, who have renounced worldly attachments, converge at this sacred site seeking spiritual enlightenment and unity with the divine. With colored ash and grease smeared on their bodies and in their hair, the Sadhus lead a life of austerity, dedicating themselves to meditation, contemplation, and the pursuit of self-realization.
Interacting with the Sadhus at Pasbupotinoth Place offers a rare insight into their way of life and their philosophical teachings. Their presence adds an ethereal dimension to the sacred ambiance of the place, attracting curious visitors, some of whom are actually seeking a deeper understanding of Hinduism and its diverse spiritual practices. This area of Kathmandu was a cultural treasure that too few westerners sought out when we were there, and we feel privileged to have been able to witness it in person, and subsequently be a very small part of it.
The Pasbupotinoth temple complex has since become a UNESCO World Heritage Site which gave it some precedence in getting the funds for its needed repairs. Although the earthquake did cause damage to various structures throughout the Kathmandu Valley, structures I will show you in later posts including some temples and buildings within the Pashupatinath Temple complex, extensive resoration efforts have since been undertaken to repair and preserve the country’s important cultural heritage.
So! I didn’t make up that title just be cute or a... (
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