In my estimation your camera will do the job in most situations. This is based on my three trips to Antarctica. Here are some things to consider other than lens length.

Don't get so involved with photography that you forget to enjoy the totality of the experience.

Better to use a camera you know than a camera with which you are not experienced.

Antarctic photos are often underexposed. The assumption built into many cameras is 18% gray. This is not always good in a snowy environment.

Protect you camera well from salt spray. You will often get wet in a Zodiac.

Take one or two more batteries than you think you need.

The best penguin photos are usually taken at a low angle. Be prepared to be on your knees or even sitting. I took knee pads with me. There there are penguins there is penguin poop. Wear rain pants and rinse them off before you reenter the Zodiac. I would not kneel or sit if there are seal pups in the area. They will attack.

A good Zodiac driver will ask the people on the side of the Zodiac with the photo ops to kneel on the floor while taking pics. In this way both sides of the boat can get better photos. If the driver does not do this suggest it or lead by example.

I need a camera for my fishing trips. I create presentations for fishing clubs, so I want good image quality. I want RAW format capabilities for better editing of images. I want to have a wide range of lens lengths, but I do not want interchangeable lens capability. I want to keep my kit as compact as possible. For the lens, wide is probably more important than telophoto.

While I find I can usually get good results using automatic, it would be nice to have have the capability to adjust aperture and ISO. I guess what I am looking for could be considered an advanced point and shoot camera with a larger sensor.

I can't say cost is no oblect, but it is a secondary in importance.

Any recommendations?

Your lenses should to fine. Be sure you have the equipment to get your lenses ashore while keeping them dry. It is almost impossible to not get wet when in a Zodiac

I assume you will be there in the austral summer (Nov-Feb). If so cold weather will not be a problem for your camera. It will usually be within a few degrees of freezing. Keeping your camera dry will be the problem.

Here are a couple of shooting tips. Generally the Antartic is not 18% gray. The automatic exposure system on your camera might under expose. Consider adjusting for that or bracketing exposure. Get low for the best wildlife shots. At least on your knees or even prone. However be advised that many times the surface will have a great deal on penguin poop.

Finally a safety tip. Fur seals, especially the young ones, are aggressive. If you are shooting in an area where they common (like South Georgia) have someone spotting while you are shooting. They will attack from behind. Fortunately they are easily deterred by pointing a walking stick at them.

You should do fine as long as you take the time, or have the time, to really learn to use your camera. Given the time of year you are going you will probably not be doing any Aurora photography. That calls for a very high ISO, a very wide angle lens, a very fast lens, a tripod and a remote release.

Enjoy Iceland!

I recommend

A UV for inexpensive lens protection

Circular polarizer if you do landscapes

A selection of neutral density filters to give you more control over depth of field and exposure timing

Be prepared. A fish should be returned to the water as quickly as possible. A quick lift, a quick exposure and then back in the water. If you are keeping the fish that is different.

I think it is more important to take pics of fishing than of fish. The look on a kids face as he or she fights a fish is in my estimation a better pic than is the pic of the fish after it is caught.

If you will be in a small boat you will need a wide angle lens, but paradoxically not a fish eye lens.

The camera not to take is one you purchase especially for the trip, unless you have the time and opportunity to become very familiar with the camera before the trip. You need to be thoroughly familiar with the controls and settings. You need to know the characteristics of your camera. For example, which bracketing setting work best or which exposure adjustments are best for a given situation.

I will be taking pics of bicycle races. I want to get some shots where the bikers are blurred and the background is in focus and other images where the reverse is true. Does anyone have any suggestions as to shutter speed for either or both of these situations, I have a tripod and neutral density filters so the exposure time could be rather long if that is required

Thanks for any help you can give me.

I once saw 60 eagles in one tree on the Skagit. However, this year the population has been down. The reports are that high water has flushed many salmon carcasses down the river. Dead salmon are why the eagles are there.

You might have difficulty getting reservations at any lodge inside Glacier. I am almost completely sure that Many Glaciers Lodge is fully booked. Perhaps some of the other lodges have space. You will probably have better luck at a facility outside the park.

Many Glaciers has recently been remodeled. It also frequently has amazing early morning alpine glow that makes great photography opportunities. Perhaps you can get on a waiting list and get lucky.

Does anyone know the native ISO (I believe that is the correct term) of the Sony Alpha 6000?

I believe one of the responders misread your original note. If I am correct you are going in 14 months and not for 14 months. Give what you wrote it appears you will be on a cruise. You will be going in summer and will not be experiencing really cold weather, probably nothing lower than the 20's. You are likely to experience snow however.

I assume your jumping off point is Ushuaia. There are many photographic opportunities around Ushuaia, especially opportunities to photograph several species of birds and pinapeds.

Here are a few more suggestions based on my experiences doing photography in Antarctica. You will not need a long lens for wildlife photography. The wildlife, especially penguins, will approach you. Just remain still. Sometimes they get too close, especially on South Georgia. There you can be expected to be attacked by juvenile fur seals. I seal bite is very serious, but they are easily deterred. I suggest you work with a buddy. While one is taking pics the other stands guard. One place where a long lens might be useful is in photographing whales.

Bring more batteries than you thing you need. I few extra batteries is a small price compared to the $20 000 the trip will cost you.

Bring electrical outlet adapters. Chances are your ship will have round two prong 240 volt outlets.

Shoot some video. It can enhance any presentations you produce. Even if you don't use the video the audio can enhance any presentation.

Be sure to take the time to observe and enjoy the wonders about you. The pictures in you mind are as important as The ones in your camer

I have made 3 trips to Antarctica. My feeling is that any good DSLR or mirrorless camera will take more than adequate pictures. The most important thing is that you know your camera well and can quickly change settings.

Given that here are a few things to keep in mind. You and your camera will get wet. More than likely you will get drenched in saltwater on one or more Zodiac excursions. Make sure your camera is protected .

Shoot wildlife from a low angle. This is especially true for penguin. On your knees or prone is best, but watch out for penguin poop.

There is a tendency for cameras that are not set on full manual to shoot underexposed. You might want to shoot with exposure bracketing.

I purchased a device for my Alpha 6000 primarily to use as remote release. However, it also can serve as a intervalometer. As I understand it this allows me to do time lapse photography, but I am unclear about several things. Time lapse seems to make sense for video and not for still images. Am I missing something?

Assuming I an not missing something, Here are my questions. When using an intervalometer are images automatically captured in a video format, such as MPEG? If the images are captured in JPEG or RAW, how do I convert these to video?

Any help will be appreciated. Thanks