Hi PixelStan77,
It's simply too heavy for me to use with comfort, so I didn't use it much. (My back is almost as old as I am, but often it feels much older). Most of my shooting is done hand-held, too, because of tripod weight. I've purchased a much smaller, lighter walk-around lens that does pretty well with my D-500 (it's the newish 18-300mm). Admittedly it's not the super quality of the 200-500, but I do take a LOT more photos with it. Often it's the only lens I carry. About the only thing I needed the longer length for was birding, but the 300 does get me out to equivalent of 450, and that's usually adequate. Thanks for asking.

Winter White Sale!

I bought this lovely lens about a year ago, and have used it very lightly (mostly for birding). It's extremely sharp throughout the zoom range, and I've been well-pleased with its performance. The VR is a huge asset. The lens, hood, caps, original box, UV filter, and Lowepro carrying case are included.

Price: $950. PayPal accepted. Please send a PM for details.

Here's what B&H has to say about it. (For reference, their current price is $1,396.95.) https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1175034-REG/nikon_af_s_nikkor_200_500mm_f_5_6e.html

Spanning a long, versatile zoom range, the AF-S NIKKOR 200-500mm f/5.6E ED VR Lens from Nikon is a telephoto zoom characterized by a constant f/5.6 maximum aperture for consistent performance throughout the zoom range. The optical design incorporates three extra-low dispersion glass elements to reduce chromatic aberrations and distortions for increased sharpness and color accuracy. Also contributing to improved image quality,a Super Integrated Coating has been applied to lens elements to lessen flare and ghosting for improved contrast and clarity.

A Silent Wave Motor AF system produces fast, near-silent focusing performance that suits both stills shooting and movie recording which can instantly be manually overridden by simply turning the manual focus ring. Further contributing to photographing in fast-paced situations and difficult lighting, VR (Vibration Reduction) image stabilization compensates for the effects of camera shake by up to 4.5 shutter speed stops. Additionally, an electromagnetic aperture mechanism is integrated into the lens design to provide greater exposure control stability that is especially beneficial when working with faster continuous shooting rates.


Designed for use with FX image sensors, this lens is also compatible with DX sensors where it will provide a 300-750mm equivalent focal length range.
Constant f/5.6 maximum aperture offers consistent performance throughout the zoom range.
Three extra-low dispersion glass elements work to reduce chromatic aberrations; improve overall image sharpness, clarity, and color fidelity; and help to minimize the overall weight of the lens.
A Super Integrated Coating has been applied to lens elements to minimize surface and internal reflections for a marked reduction in lens flare and ghosting.
Vibration Reduction image stabilization helps to reduce the appearance of camera shake for up to 4.5 shutter speed stops, benefiting this lens' use in low-light conditions. Additionally, a designated Sport Mode is well-suited to working in fast-paced conditions where panning and other lateral camera movements are more common.
Silent Wave Motor autofocus mechanism provides quick, quiet, and precise autofocus performance that is ideal for photographing fast-moving subjects.
Full-time manual focus override allows instant switching between AF and MF focusing systems by just rotating the focus ring at any time.
Internal focusing design maintains the overall lens length during operation and contributes to a lighter overall weight, as well as a minimum focusing distance of 7.2'.
Specialized electromagnetic aperture mechanism provides greater exposure control stability that is especially beneficial when working with fast continuous shooting rates.

This mechanism limits the compatibility of this lens to the following cameras: D5 series, D4 series, D3 series, Df, D810, D810A, D800 series, D750, D700, D610, D600, D500, D300 series, D7200, D7100, D7000, D5600, D5500, D5300, D5200, D5100, D5000, D3400, D3300, D3200, D3100, Nikon 1 J1, J2, J3, J4 with FT-1, Nikon 1 V1, V2, V3 with FT-1, and Nikon 1 S1, S2 with FT-1.
A rotating tripod collar offers well-balanced support for photographing atop a tripod or monopod with either vertical or horizontal shooting orientations.

Yes, as of today (Friday, 12/15) it's still available. I'll change the post's title to "SOLD" when it's gone.
Thanks!
Jim

Hi Terry,
Look for a pm as soon as I get home. Thanks!

Just in time for a holiday gift to yourself (or a very, very good friend):

For Sale: Lightly used Nikkor 200-500 lens, hood, caps, original box, UV filter, carrying case included. Purchased new less than a year ago. At my age, it's just too heavy for me to lug around on my birding excursions, so I've downgraded to a lighter lens. My experience with this lens shows it to be extremely sharp throughout the zoom range, and the VR is a huge asset in the field. Case is a Lowepro, also purchased new for this lens (great fit).

Price: $999 plus shipping. You can let me know how you want it shipped, and we'll get the actual amount. PayPal accepted.

I feel your pain. That's my normal luck, too. <grin> Enjoy your new lens, though. It's a sweet one!

$675 plus $22.50 shipping to lower 48 states.

Tamron 150-600mm for Nikon. Excellent to E+ condition. I purchased this lens new about 18 months ago, and have used it sparingly, mostly for bird photos. As the photos show, it is in pristine condition, the way I keep all of my gear, and has always enjoyed the protection of a UV filter. (That filter fits my new lens, so I am keeping it.) The lens has never been used in inclement weather, and is stored inside our home when not in use.

Any artifacts in the photos of the optics are glare from my studio strobes. All glass is perfectly clear. Tamron hood, lens cap and end cap are included. I have misplaced the original box and paperwork, but it is the US version. (I will provide the serial number via PM if you want to verify its US status.)

The only reason I am selling it is because I have needed to go to a lighter weight lens. This one is just heavy enough that it is difficult for my 70-year-old bones to carry it and a tripod around all day.

I can ship to the lower 48 states. Sorry, no international sales. PayPal works well for me.

Please use PM for questions and contacts.

Jim

Great timing for your question about decals. I've worked for weeks trying to find the right decal material and wood finish combination so I can put my studio's logo on custom-crafted wood pieces we also sell. Long story short: I've found a material called "waterslide decal paper" (like the temporary tattoos the kids get at the fair -- soak the paper in water and slide the image off the paper). It's a two-layer inkjet product that works very well, but it's really picky about the type of wood finish it likes.

What I've discovered: Print the decal paper normally on your inkjet printer (special papers are also available for laser printers). The paper comes with choice of clear or white background. I like the clear. After printing, allow the ink to dry for an hour or so, then spray 3 coats of Krylon Crystal Clear Acrylic Satin finish to the paper's image side. Wait a couple of hours for the spray finish to dry. The clear acrylic spray keeps the ink from smearing.

The ONLY product that I've had luck getting the decal to adhere to is Minwax's PolyCrylic -- a totally water-based polyurethane. (Somewhere I learned that oil and water don't mix . . . duhhh!) I've only used the satin finish. If you want to stain the wood, do it before the Minwax PolyCrylic top coats, and be very certain that your wood stain is totally water-based. After I've allowed the PolyCrylic to dry a couple of hours, I dampen the wood surface with water, soak the decal paper for 20 seconds, and slide the image off the paper onto the wood. It'll be repositionable, but very fragile. Blot off excess water with a paper towel, and use that to remove air bubbles that may form under the decal. Then let the decal dry on the wood for a couple of hours.

Finally, top coat the wood with the same PolyCrylic finish used under the decal. On our products, we usually apply three additional top coats, and it makes the edges of the decals nearly invisible.

Using a water-based polyurethane has been the key to my success. The decals won't bond with ANY oil-based finishes or stains. They also refuse to bond with raw, unfinished wood! You won't know if the bond was successful until the decal has had an hour or so to dry. If it curls up and blows off the wood, it's back to the drawing board.

Sorry to use specific brand names, but this is the only wood finish I've tried that achieves a really good bond and looks good afterwards. I'm sure there are more products that work, but so far I've gone through over $100 to find one combo that actually works. (BTW, we're using oak to make the pieces, but I've tested everything on pine as well, with the same results.

Good luck!
Jim

I appreciate all of the comments in this thread. As a photo instructor (community college), I need an arsenal of explanations to help each student understand the material. Each of us has a different learning style, and sometimes multiple explanations are needed. The beautiful picture, for me, is when I see the mental flash bulb go off in each kid's head when they finally "get" it -- even if it took four different explanations. Again, thanks to our OP, and to everyone who responded. You're all helping!
Jim
Reinbeck, IA

I still have my first camera, the Brownie Hawkeye, in my collection! Funniest part is that I now teach photography at "Hawkeye Community College." Perhaps that's poetic justice at work! :lol:

My guess is "Circles of Confusion." Actually that's a very technical term reserved for describing a bunch of fabulous photographers gathered around trying to help each other on UHH. :lol:

Hey, it's GREAT to have Rick back in the loop! He does fantastic work, is friendly, and when you get your gear back you know it's been repaired correctly. Welcome back, Rick!!!

Holy Cow! I can remember being soooo excited to get my first 135mm back in 1968! I thought it was l-o-n-g. This thing could be handy in a bar room fight. (You wouldn't even need a concealed carry permit. <grin>) Probably takes unexpectedly good pictures, too.
Good luck with your sale. I bet somebody's going to have a lot of fun with it!

Thanks to everyone who's responded! I kinda figured you'd have some fun with this situation, and I truly appreciate the helpful suggestions and comments.

It sounds like I'd better keep the lighting kit in the house when I'm not using it, and not take the lazy way out by keeping it set up all the time. (Can someone tell my why the easy, lazy way never works for anything???)

BTW, no people or animals will be harmed during these photo shoots! (Unless this old photographer gets frostbite.) I shoot a lot of products made by local artisans, and never know when someone will stop in with an urgent need. I also enjoy bringing my classes over and letting them experiment with the lighting when temps are more reasonable.

Thanks again for the great responses, for the knowledgeable electronic opinions, as well as the light-hearted replies. All are appreciated!

Jim in Reinbeck, IA, (where annual temps easily range from 110F to -35F)

Friends, I know you're going to have fun with this question.

Before I chance destroying my trusty old Photogenic studio strobe kit, I'm wondering if any of you experience with them in a cold shooting environment.

First, it's a power pack and three corded heads, with modeling lights.

I've converted the garage into a studio of sorts, but it's already cold here in Iowa (30F), and it's going to get really cold in a month or so (maybe -15F).

Will it harm the strobes to keep them set up and use them in the unheated garage? I've got a small space heater that I'll use while shooting. They'll boost temps 10-15F, but it'll never warm the place up enough to shoot without a jacket.

Maybe it sounds silly, but I've not tried it myself, and I haven't found any references to shooting with COLD studio strobes. Unfortunately moving to a warmer climate is not an option my wife's offering right now <grin>.

Any ideas??? THANKS!!!
Jim in Reinbeck, IA