I've had a few cameras converted and it all boils down to convenience vs flexibility. With the 570nm conversion, if you have a number of lenses with different filter sizes you will need either duplicate filters in different diameters or one large filter that fits your largest lens and a number of adapter rings. This probably means no hood on the lenses that use an adapter. If you're going to go that route consider a full spectrum conversion to give yourself the most flexibility. If the multiple filters and/or adapter rings are not something you want to deal with and you are sure that 720nm is what you want go with that, though if all you want is the classic strong B&W infrared look consider 830nm as 720nm will still pass some visible light and color and require more post processing.
Love the MGs. You need to make 1 correction though. The F was produced while still owned by BMW. I remember distinctly because I was really hoping they would be exported to the US so I could get one to join my B in the garage. Unfortunately, BMW declined to allow MG to compete in the states against their own new Z3 that had also just been released.
If you wouldn't be put off by a rangefinder the old Koni Omega or Rapid Omega 6x7 cameras are real bargains. They are fully manual mechanical cameras and require use of an external lightmeter. All models have interchangeable lenses and backs, while the Koni Omega M and Rapid Omega 200 have interchangeable magazine backs allowing you to change films mid roll. 120 and 220 backs are available and there were 4 lenses made, a 58mm f5.6 wide angle (later renamed 60mm but it's the same lens) with a dedicated external finder, a 90mm f3.5 normal, a 135mm f3.5 short telephoto (rare) and a 180mm f4.5 telephoto. The 90, 135 and 180 all have framelines in the finder and the 58mm can be approximated by using the full finder if you don't have the external finder.
I believe Fuji has 2 stabilization modes, 1 for shooting only, and a continuous mode for shooting and the evf when composing. Maybe you have it set for continuous stabilization and you’re hearing the stabilization motors trying to keep the evf display stable?
If the lens has electronic contacts to communicate focal length there should be no problems. The camera will take care of everything for you. If you are adapting a vintage lens or using a manual focus lens without communication with the body you need to go into the menu and manually set the focal length so the IBIS knows how much compensation to apply. If you don't do this the IBIS can actually make things worse.
It will mount and work but will not couple with the meter without the rabbit ears.
The DP-1 is a non-AI finder. It will be compatible with any Nikon MF lenses with rabbit ears. You can even retrofit rabbit ears to newer lenses without them, though I'd question whether it would be worth the hassle. Mounting non-AI lenses is slightly more cumbersome than the later AI system but it works just fine once attached.
David in Dallas wrote:
I know it is still commissioned. Why is it not a "sailboat"? I understand that Navy people make distinctions between "ships" and "boats", but the average person does not. (I was Air Force.)
While not completely hard and fast, the classic definition among sailing vessels is that a ship is a square-rigged craft with at least three masts. With regard to motorized craft, a ship is a large vessel intended for oceangoing or at least deep-water transport. Boats are anything else. To make it even simpler, ships can carry boats. There are exceptions, submarines spring to mind as the most obvious "boats" that don't fit the definition, but by and large you'll be right 90+% of the time if you apply the above definition. As an aside any commisioned US warship will also be prefixed as USS (United States Ship), not US, and this applies only while the ship is commissioned.
I have the 7-14 f4 and have had no problems autofocusing with my first generation E-M1. It's a little slower with the E-P5 and other bodies that rely solely on CDAF. But honestly, what are you shooting with a 7-14 that requires lightning fast AF?
Try shooting in RAW +JPEG with the camera set for monochrome. It's the best of both worlds, especially if you're using mirrorless. You get to preview how the image works in B&W at time of capture and still get the maximum ability to tweak and fine tune the final result from the color original.
De Smet, SD has the Laura Ingalls Wilder Historic Homes if you're interested in 19th century life on the prairie.
Keep it simple. If there is no specific feature you want on the Panasonic stick to something you can share batteries with like another E-M1 mark I, either mark of the E-M5 or an E-P5.
Not my most used lens, but the one I look for excuses to use, my Olympus 150mm f2 followed closely by my Panasonic Leica Summilux D 25mm f1.4 (the original 4/3 mount version, not the newer, cheaper m4/3 version).