Linda From Maine wrote:
Spectacular series! I can't imagine these pp'd in any other style: detailed, gritty, stomach-churning but can't look away!
I agree with Linda from Maine. The PP effect is perfect for this subject. Care to share what the software was?
Thanks.
I really like #1 a lot. Simplicity at its best!
alemorkam wrote:
Can this photo be saved without the lines?
I worked on it a little with the spot healing brush in Photoshop Elements. I didn't spend much time on it, but you can probably improve it with a little more work. I've attached the .jpg file, but I can send you the .tif with the layer I worked on if you would like. The .tif is 19 MB.
PlymouthWoodworker wrote:
You just need to understand the difference between pixels per inch (ppi) and drops per inch (dpi). Each photo has a given number of pixels, and the print size will then dictate the number of pixels per inch in the final print. When you send a print job to the printer, the driver will convert to the native ppi for that printer (generally 300 ppi for Canon and 360 ppi for Epson). The the printer determines how many "dots" of each color ink to "spit" onto each pixel to give it the proper color. That's why printer specs can state, for example, up to 1500 dpi, because it can "spit" up to 5 dots of ink for each pixel at 300 ppi. If you do any sharpening of a photo and send it to the printer at a higher ppi than the printer is expecting, the driver will remove pixels and you may lose some of the sharpening effect. So, before sharpening in the the last step of post processing, you should resize the picture to the final print size (in inches) and the printer's native ppi (usually 300 or 360). After that apply sharpening and send it to the printer. Hope this is useful.
You just need to understand the difference between... (
show quote)
Let me just add for those who send their files out for printing: If you do any sharpening, follow the adivce in my original message. Contact the printing lab and ask what ppi they want. Then resize your picture based on the final print size and the required ppi before applying final sharpening. Then send the file out for printing.
You just need to understand the difference between pixels per inch (ppi) and drops per inch (dpi). Each photo has a given number of pixels, and the print size will then dictate the number of pixels per inch in the final print. When you send a print job to the printer, the driver will convert to the native ppi for that printer (generally 300 ppi for Canon and 360 ppi for Epson). The the printer determines how many "dots" of each color ink to "spit" onto each pixel to give it the proper color. That's why printer specs can state, for example, up to 1500 dpi, because it can "spit" up to 5 dots of ink for each pixel at 300 ppi. If you do any sharpening of a photo and send it to the printer at a higher ppi than the printer is expecting, the driver will remove pixels and you may lose some of the sharpening effect. So, before sharpening in the the last step of post processing, you should resize the picture to the final print size (in inches) and the printer's native ppi (usually 300 or 360). After that apply sharpening and send it to the printer. Hope this is useful.
Royce,
I have the Tokina 11-16, and it's plenty wide on my D7100. It's very sharp. Distortion hasn't been a problem. I think you'll like it.
Linda From Maine wrote:
"Always optimize..." will set to sRGB. Here's one article:
https://helpx.adobe.com/photoshop-elements/using/setting-color-management.html?mv=product&mv2=pse
Scroll to "Set up color management."
In the workspace it's: Edit - Color Settings. It doesn't sound like you can default to RGB, but I have PSE ver. 2024.
Thanks for your input Linda. In the article you linked it says that if you select "Always Optimize for Printing" it will use Adobe RGB, which is what I want. But it doesn't seem to do that.
I shoot RAW and do initial editing in Adobe ACR (the version that came with Elements) and then click the OPEN button to open the file in Photoshop Elements 2022. Some time ago the default color space (profile) in PSE was Adobe RGB. I liked this because I save my .tif files with this color space since my printer (Canon Pixma PRO-10) can handle a wider gamut than sRGB. Lately, however, when a file comes in from ACR PSE defaults to sRGB and I have to change the profile before saving my .tif. I convert to sRGB for .jpgs that I want to share. I would like the default to be Adobe RGB but can't find a way to change the default. I have the Color Settings in PSE set to "Always optimize for printing." My camera's (Nikon D7100) color space is set to Adobe RGB (but that should have no effect on RAW files since they have no color space). Can anyone tell me how to set the default in PSE to Adobe RGB?
Thanks.
Fstop12 wrote:
This was shot with a Nikon D7000 and a 18-200mm lens. Focal length was 22 mm. F6.7 Aperture Priority. The image was scaled up in Adobe Camera Raw. I also used Topaz Sharpen.
Thanks Fstop12. I have a D7100 and the 18-140.
Great perspective. Love it! What lens and aperture to get everything in focus?
Nice shots Linda. When the title said Ag Museum I thought you meant real silver B&W prints since Ag is the symbol for silver!
Sometimes this pattern is an artifact of the viewing screen. When I see it, I zoom in or zoom out to get it to disappear. Also, I notice that it does not appear in a print even though it was visible on the computer screen.