looks like a camera to telescope or spotting scope adapter, just missing the camera mount plate and tube.
rv8striker wrote:
I’ve been trying to photograph the noon for the last five or six months with very poor results. I have been using the so called “Loony 11” formula but exposer is not the issue, focus is the problem. The lens is a Nikkor AF-S 70-300mm 1:4.5-5.6G mounted to my D750.
Here’s how my attempts have been made:
1. VR turned off
2. Auto focus turned off
3. 10 second delay to allow any vibration in tripod to subside
4. Focused both thru view finder and zoomed in using Live View
5. I’ve tried various local lengths
6. Tried pre-focusing on a distant object and taping focus ring
All these techniques have failed. Last night I noticed that every time I manually focused, after the shot the lens would no longer be in what I thought was well focused, in fact it would be way out of focus and I had to focus again for each shot. Is that normal? Seems to me if the lens is focused manually it should stay there. Seems no matter what I do the images are a blur. The lens works fine in daylight situations with auto focus and VR in use.
Any thoughts from the group as to why none of these techniques have worked or, what else to try would be appreciated.
I’ve been trying to photograph the noon for the la... (
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I use wide rubber wrist bands to add resistance to the zoom ring anytime I shoot barrel elevated to make sure the zoom won't change. You can do the same with the focus ring if it has a tendency to creep as well. Be careful however to make sure autofocus is off as such resistance could damage the focus motor depending of what type of lense being used. I keep a number of such bands for spare as well so I'm always ready if needed. In a pinch buy a bicycle intertube and cut the band's to the desired width, these usually last a long time and can be used on flash guns as well for holding filter gels.
Well done set, glade they e you your company so much!
Mark Sturtevant wrote:
One should also consider the pros and cons behind getting a 2x teleconverter to get more bird captures.
I have a 2x but leave it home, I do however have a 1.4x that seems to work well and lives in my bag. I have the Sigma 150-500mm with its matched 2x that I will take out when needed as well.
It's probably one of the high freq 5G data antennas. The high freq requires more antennas due to shorter range. They should be all over the place in dense metro areas. They also have devices allowing cameras to be remotely activated and viewed, strobe based light controller are a smaller sensor usually directly by the light itself allowing fire trucks to force cycle the light to green.
I don't feel that there is any problem doing modifications to photographs. With that said if I'm doing shots as a news stringer of a specific event, modification other that very basic post (I shoot only RAW so all are flat) to bring up exposure if needed with some sharpening if low light, would be it. If it's an artistic rendering then it would be no different than a painted scene enhanced by the artist, anything goes.
I use One drive and Google photos most of the time and use email or MMS text for 1-2 quick files. I pay for my MS 365 acct so I have a 1TB limit and Google is unlimited if you allow compression. If I want to keep the highest resolution then One drive is the choice. I no longer keep many photos on my phone as they auto sync to both locations. Once sync happens the originals come off. I also have an old phone as a viewer that has access to both sites. You do not need a SIM card that's valid in the phone to connect to a home WiFi router.
I use copy and paste as the main method. If I've used lightroom on the folder I leave the images in place. I have started using DXO more now and with it the modification info is stored in the same folder with the photos. On DXO work ups I remove the files from the original drive after verification. I also use more than one backup drive so its usually an overnight set and walk away. If being truly archived I burn to dual layer DVD disc (2 discs-old adage if 2 you always have 1, if 1 you may have none) and leave on one external drive. A lot of drive space but I use external docks to plug up the raw drive and either 3 1/2 or 2 1/2 drives for format.
DxO Photolab can do everything you are wanting including the horizon shift. It's not $35 but you can download the software for 30 trial and see if its worth it for you. I have Photoshop, Lightroom and DxO and find myself using DxO more than the others. Also works well on noisy photos shot at higher ISO.
You are correct they marketed the "new" tech using bodies from Canon and Nikon. I actually have a Kodak DCS 520 and a Canon D2000 bodies. I bought them because I couldn't afford a newer one so bought these to get into digital. Both were 2 megapixel and when converted they rendered a TIFF file. These are workhorses I shot thousands of frames of my kids sports and supplied their teammates as well. If I had new batteries I would probably use these for more of the wet works type of days when playing. They take CAT45 batteries and PCMCIA storage which I had both hard drive and CF adapter. Now I use the Canon 7D, I have 3 of them all with 15,000+ frames pushed through them. I have 3 for a reason when out I set up one with a 150-500, one with a 70-200 and last one in a camera cage setup for video. I shoot just about anything but as of late shoot much less than I used to.
Your selection should work fine and will allow you to find your personal speciality. I shoot Canon myself and have since HS (I'm 56 now). My son-in-law shoots Nikon and does beautiful work with his. Go for it get your feet wet and then later on you can look at whatever upgrade you need and have this one as your backup!
Best practice is to use one filter at a time but if the angle of view doesn't show the second filter as a shadowing in the corners then go for it. Remember however turning the circular polarizer may tighten the UV tighter than you would want, I would have a set of filter wrenches on hand just in case.
I have a DCS520, Canon D2000, XT, XTI and 3-7D's. 2st 2 are on EOS 1 body and I actually like that size so all the other bodies have battery grips. All of them work but the 7D's are the ones I use the most now 25,000 + activations on each of the bodies. I have rheumatoid arthritis so holding larger frame is easier for my grip. Of course I don't hand hold much anymore, it's either monopod or tripod.
Wonderful colors-great capture