Quick answer - See what the competition are charging and base your prices around that mark, unless you can offer anything totally different and unique for which you can charge a premium. You don't want to price too high (there is a lot of competition out there) but you also don't want to sell yourself short.

Totally agree - the second one is my favourite. These bikes are a bit before my time but I do love the British classics.

I use a lightweight tripod for travel and it's the Manfrotto Befree - I have the aluminium one (couldn't justify the cost of the carbon fibre). The Befree isn't cheap, but then I always think it is worth spending extra for good quality stuff that is going to last. I have been done the "buy cheap buy twice" route before and wasted a lot of money. Besides, you want something strong enough to support and protect your expensive camera right? The Befree is strong and tough, quick to set up (and pack away again) and easy to use. I wouldn't be without mine when I go travelling. Just an option you may want to take a look at ................

It has been said many times before and I am going to give another +1 for Photoshop Elements. It is an excellent program and will do everything you want it to, and more. Some of the advanced features are a challenge to use (there are plenty of tutorials online to help with this) but the basic features (and the most used) are easy enough to pick up. Get Photoshop and I guarantee that you will start off simple and then want to push your skills further and further, and with Elements you will be able to do this.

Thanks Sailorsmom. Still a bit of work to do though.

Are you looking for wired or wireless? I bought a cheap and cheerful Pixel Pro wired remote to take on vacation with me five years ago and it is still going strong, despite the abuse I give it. This remote got rubbish reviews, and when I took delivery it was cheaply made and felt more like a toy but then I did buy cheap - with the intention of using it solely for vacation use. The Pixel Pro is a top performer and does everything I need it to and more and I highly recommend it.

I recently bought a Yongnuo RF-603 wireless remote (to shoot birds with me in the lounge looking out the window and the camera outside focusing on the bird bath) and I have to say I am very impressed with this too. I haven't had it for too long, so I can't give a long term report, but my first impressions are good, it is a capable bit of kit and it seems like it'll last.

Thought I would have a go at high speed photography. I never realized it was sooooo hard. After several attempts, and a few hours, this was the best of the lot. Still a lot to learn I think........

The V2 has triggers built in to the flash whereas the V1 doesn't - other than that, and the cost of course, I think they are pretty much the same. The V1 Ving is now an absolute bargain, and if you want to fire it wireless the Youngnuo 622 radio triggers work a treat with it.

If that's the case - go for it. I guarantee you won't be disappointed.

I'm going to follow this with interest - I have just bought a spotting scope to have a go at digiscoping. I have done a bit of reading and it appears I have a lot to learn, which I am quite looking forward to.

I have the Canon 10 - 22 and keep a UV filter on it at all times (for protection) and there is no vignetting at all. When I first bought the lens I only put a cheap (and thick) UV filter on it but now use a (high quality? hmmm...) thin one and neither of them have caused any problems at all.

The only push pull zoom lens I have is the Canon 100 - 400L IS MK1. I find zooming in and out and focusing much quicker than the conventional "twist" style zoom lenses. This is great for bird and wildlife photography. I have read some comments that zooming isn't as accurate with the push pull zoom, but I have never had any problems with this.

I have also read that the push pull zoom acts like a vacuum and sucks up dust. Once again, I have never had any problems with this and I have used my 100 - 400L in some very dusty environments since I have owned it, which is several years now.

If all lenses came in a push pull or twist style, I would opt for the push pull every time. Just my two cents......

I buy a lot of my lenses from Amazon (there is always a huge choice) and always buy the "fulfilled by Amazon" products. Whilst these are not the cheapest option (although they are only a little more expensive than the others) the Amazon customer service is second to none. If there are any problems with delivery it is quickly sorted via Amazon chat. If there is a problem with the product Amazon takes it back (via its free returns service) and will replace or refund quickly, efficiently and with no questions asked. Amazon is often my go to store for most of my photography equipment purchases.

In my experience ( with Canon dslrs) Tokina lenses have always outperformed Sigma lenses. I have always found the Tokina to be stronger and sturdier too.

I was asked to do some head shots for a local accountancy firm a few years back. After getting the first person in situ I looked through the view finder to compose and dial in the appropriate settings etc. when all I could see was total black. Being a little flustered (through embarrassment) I tried to redeem myself and show that I knew what I was doing and started turning dials and pressing buttons at random. After a few seconds the person who I was photographing (who was the managing partner of the firm) asked in a sarcastic voice "aren't you meant to take the cover off the end of the lens?"


I wanted the ground to open up and swallow me.