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Posts for: RJarvis
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Mar 9, 2015 18:02:04   #
KTJohnson wrote:
I like the fifth one best, but I notice some spots on your sensor just above horizon in sky.


Thanks KT, I hadn't noticed. I used the "Clean Sensor" function and will test it later. Is it possible to touch the sensor with lens paper, for example?
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Mar 9, 2015 15:42:50   #
I spent a couple days in and around Olympic Nat'l. Park last week. (It's in the far northwest corner of the US, for you non-Americans.) It's noted for its rain forests - the largest and wettest outside the tropics.


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Sitka Spruce (foreground) and Douglas Fir (in back) are HUGE - 8' to10' in diameter

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picnicking Elk

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obligatory Pacific coast sunset pic

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Feb 13, 2015 15:13:44   #
I'd consider cropping the third one down. It's got a funny, man-bites-dog quality.
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Feb 13, 2015 15:00:27   #
angler wrote:
I love chipmunks, you lucky devil Tom, chipmunks and squirrels a photographers dream . I'm jealous.Great shots by the way.


You can have them, Angler. They're just cute rats. When I lived in Maryland, they (both squirrels and chipmunks) would eat every tomato and strawberry my poor plants produced, as soon as they showed any color. I needed a pet eagle.
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Feb 13, 2015 14:29:34   #
Without the rickety, old barb-wire fence, it would be "just" another pretty sunrise/sunset pic. Congrats on the award because your superb composition (and extreme depth of field) make this shot special.
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Feb 9, 2015 05:55:15   #
Photographer Jim wrote:
Dry mounting using heat generally yields the best results, but few people have vacuum presses or heat presses. However, there are some newer products on the market that can be used even without using a press. One product is called KoolTack. It is a foamboard with a heat activated adhesive on one side. It's advantage is that the adhesive activates with relatively low temperature (150 F) and short dwell times (20-30 seconds inn my heat press). The low temperature and short dwell makes it safe to use with all photo and inkjet papers. Now here's the payoff; I have a heat press in my studio, but one day I experimented and tried using a regular household iron (no steam of course). I positioned the print on the KoolTack board, covered it with some release paper (you MUST use release paper or release board whenever you use direct heat to mount), and used the iron to activate the adhesive. Worked very well. Good flat bond. KoolTack is also fully reversible. If you ever wanted to unmount the print, just use a hairdryer to heat up a corner, and then gently peel the print up while applying heat as you go.

Since switching to this product I have had very little problem with air bubbles or prints releasing over time. I now use it on all prints I am mounting for sale.

There are a few other similar products, but so far none that I have tried are as good. You can get KoolTack online through large art supply retailers.
Dry mounting using heat generally yields the best ... (show quote)


Some great, useful tips here. One question: What is "release paper?" (It seems to be important.)
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Feb 9, 2015 05:25:32   #
forjava wrote:
Hi. I'm a first-time commenter and a learning, not-yet photographer.

On Feb 7, 2015, there was discussion of N for Nikon's zoom lenses of today which have the Nikkor Integrated Coating. Each of the responders seem to be correct, but perhaps it is worth extending the discussion because N has had at least various meanings.

I own a prime -N lens from about 1967-1977, the NIKKOR-N Auto 24mm f/2.8. Pictures: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/nikon/nikkoresources/6070nikkor/wides/24mm.htm

This lens introduced a historically significant mechanical close-range focus-correction system -- floating adjustment. See, http://nikkor.com/story/0014/.

The current N symbol, as discussed in earlier posts here, now indicates an anti-internal-reflections coating. The N is found on the body of the lens, in gold. The -N of my comment is found on the front of the lens, appended to the name, NIKKOR.

The -N suffix on my lens appeared before the first multi-coated lens, the Ai Nikkor 35mm f/1.4S, in 1971. The NIKKOR-N Auto lens was updated with a multi-layer coating in 1972. The multi-layer coating of these post-1972 lenses targets anti-ghosting and anti-flare. This coating is different from the later Super Integrated Coating (SIC) and is different from today's Nano Crystal Coating, which originated in semiconductor manufacturing, the sequentially third meaning of N.

The sequentially second use (2005) of the N designation was for AI lenses: http://bythom.com/lensacronyms.htm

Nikon has used N to refer to new types of glass: http://nikkor.com/story/nwords-e.html#retrofoc but I doubt that this glossary entry is the same N as the -N of my lens.

Still another N is suffixed to f/2.8, as in http://imaging.nikon.com/lineup/lens/glossary.htm, meaning, "new," as in certain improvements to the EL-NIKKOR 50mm f/2.8N in 1979. See http://nikon.com/about/feelnikon/recollections/r15_e/index.htm

For more on coatings, see SIC and N in this glossary: http://imaging.nikon.com/lineup/lens/glossary.htm. See also http://nikkor.com/history/03.html.

So what does the -N on my lens stand for? At first, I thought it might refer to the presence of a negative meniscus lens element. However, it seems likely that -N refers to the close-focus mechanical innovation that makes this lens significant as noted above. Evidence for this view is the use of -N in the 35mm f/1.4 Nikkor-N Auto Wideangle Lens, which appears to include the same near-focus mechanics. Since I have not seen any remarks to this effect, it would be nice to hear the views of others.
Hi. I'm a first-time commenter and a learning, not... (show quote)


What??!!!!!
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Feb 5, 2015 18:21:55   #
The bombsight
ebrunner wrote:
That is a great present. Those are wonderful shots. I have a question though. Where, in the plane, was the bomb sight located. It looks like it might have been in the nose turret? Just curious.


The bombsight is in the nose. You can see it in the very last picture (labeled "Nose Gunner") and in the exterior shot of then nose.
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Feb 5, 2015 17:22:42   #
I guessing this is somewhere near Phoenix, AZ.
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Feb 5, 2015 17:16:38   #
I love #2, Linda. It's almost an action shot, with the grass and dirt (and a little blood) still hanging from the bill. And, it's perfectly framed by the wheel spokes.
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Feb 5, 2015 16:49:58   #
Beth Smith wrote:
Can anyone suggest a reliable company to purchase a Nikon D7100 from. I just had a bad experience buying one from getitdigital. I bought a new one and they sent me a used one. In process of sending back to get a refund. Kind of nervous about buying another one. I know I could through Bestbuy, but was wondering about other companies.


I'd suggest you start on eBay. You can find used, refurbished (sometimes by Nikon) and new there, often for better prices than a store.
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Feb 5, 2015 16:45:42   #
Ernie Misner wrote:
It is only an old version of Nik's Cool Edit Pro 3 that will work as a plug in with NX2 and it is no longer available or supported by Nik. Also NX2 is no longer supported by Nikon so new camera models will not be supported for opening raw files in NX2. The program still works great though and the control points method of selective editing are still the best ever.


My version of NX2, that came with my D800 two year ago, is called "View NX2." I'm not sure if that is the app you're talking about, but Nikon has updated it a couple times in the past year.
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Jan 29, 2015 21:27:21   #
ALL desktop scanners from Epson, Canon, and HP (with which I've had bad experiences) will scan negatives (singly or in multi-frame strips), slides and existing prints at very high resolutions. Try it, you'll like it, and it's really fun to be able to use modern processing tools on a 50-year old photo and bring it back to life.
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Jan 29, 2015 18:23:02   #
a lovely place & nice pic. Try adding a polarizing filter when photographing sky and/or water. As long as the sun is at right angles to your direction of shooting, the effect will be much more dramatic.
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Jan 29, 2015 17:57:41   #
Mr PC wrote:
If you are moving to a larger hard drive within the same computer, get a copy of Acronis TrueImage, it will clone a hard drive. You end up with a perfect copy of the original hard drive, only bigger. If it's an external drive you are talking about, just copy the whole thing, everything will work fine. I'm a computer guy by trade, if you're not comfortable with either of these options, I concur, hire a pro! Good luck...


I was going to also recommend cloning, but Mr. PC beat me to it. Another clone app is HDClone, a German product. Buy the "Standard" version (it's much faster than the "free" trial version). I've used it several times to move to a new or larger hard drive.
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