I have been using them for years as system and data drives with no problems. The improved performance is worth the small risk.

The long term storage problem was related to using SSDs to store data and then turning off the power for long periods of time. This can happen if you take the drive and put it in storage as a backup or turn off the power to a computer and don't use it for a while.

I always have multiple backups of critical files on hard disks. Any storage media has a risk of failure.

The nice thing about SSDs is that they can be stashed almost anywhere inside your PC. I use velcro to attach them inside the PC case. I use a 256GB for the OS and Programs and a 500GB for Photoshop and Lightroom photos and cache. That leaves space for two or three standard hard disks in the 3.5 inch drive bays for mirrored storage. Just be sure you have enough drive ports. There are usually four. You can disconnect the DVD drive for an extra port if necessary.

This and extra RAM made a great improvement in performance for me.

Thanks. It's available until 11/28. I may give it a try.

When did you get that price? I didn't find anything on adobe.com.

I 've been in the Windows Insider program since last fall and used many of the pre-release builds. Windows 10 is now very stable and MS is fixing minor bugs daily. If you have more than one computer, I would recommend installing it on a non-critical machine first to try it. It is better than 8.1 many ways but a bit different and requires a little effort to learn what's changed. You can roll it back if you don't like it but currently there is a time limit of a year for the free upgrade.

The upgrade from Win 7 thru 8.1 works well. All I did was uninstall programs I don't use anymore and did a file clean-up.

The Windows product key is imbedded in the bios of newer PCs that don't have the old style Windows label so it is picked up during the install and activates reliably. In my experience, Microsoft is good about fixing activation issues over the phone if you have any problems. There are free utilities that can read the product key directly from bios if you really want to know what it is.

Check with Carter's Camera Cottage.

You might also try Murphy's Camera. They have 3 locations (800-582-2409). I purchased my Tamron 150-600 from them last year when none of the big dealers had them in stock. Good people and competitive prices.

It all depends on the focal length of the lens and f stop set. Google depth of field tables for the parameters you are using.

I agree with keeping the BBF button pressed for a moving subject.

If you have good lenses that fit the current Canon models, that might be a consideration. I stayed with Nikon when I originally switched to digital because I already had several lenses and not much money.

Go with 64bit; with PS you will need the higher RAM capability. Today's Intel and AMD processors are 64bit so why would you want to cripple the system with a 32bit OS and its memory and thread limitations? Also, 32bit software runs fine with a 64bit OS.

I forgot to mention that I am using the ColorMunki Photo. The smile creates Monitor ICC profiles but not printer profiles. I bought it because my available photography time was limited and I wanted to be able to eliminate the printing problems. It's much more expensive but gets the job done. Time was limited before I retired so I bought it.

If you are not doing much printing I would recommend just a monitor profiler and the Smile should work for you. Are you already using the printer manufacturer's stock ICC profiles? There are people on the web that will create custom printer profiles at a reasonable price.

You might find this link interesting if your prints are coming out too dark or with color shifts. My biggest problem was not getting neutral enough grays in my prints.

http://www.colourprofiles.com/dark.htm

Read it.

http://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-CMUNPH-ColorMunki-Photo/dp/B00169N0BK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1432333582&sr=8-1&keywords=colormunki+photo

As I said, I have created good printer profiles using the ColorMunki software.

I use the ColorMunki. It does a great job of calibrating my monitors and creates good printer profiles. It has saved me a good deal of wasted paper and ink. I can usually get an acceptable print on the first try now.

The wasted hours of frustrating tweaking and reprinting are gone. I feel the cost of the ColorMunki was worth it for me. I bought it on Amazon as a warehouse deal, open box at a good discount.

I also use an ASUS wide gamut monitor that provides better capability of creating a good match between the screen and print. Monitor and print matching is never perfect because of the difference between the print's reflected light and the monitor's backlight but I am happy with the results.

You might try contacting the software developer Rich Meston. I found him to be pretty responsive to questions when I was working with early versions of the software in late 2012. I used it with my D300 and D800 at the time. Focal helped me detect the right side focus problem that some of the early D800s had.

I don't see why a D5300 would not work unless it can't be controlled through the USB port or the D5300 hasn't been tested yet. The only issue I know of is that the Nikon camera firmware does not allow automatic micro adjustment settings through the Focal software or Nikon would not supply the necessary details to allow the developer to program it. The software pauses to let you manually change it for the next test point.

There is also a trial period available to see if you like the software.

:thumbup: :thumbup:

When I use a strap it is usually a sling type. If the lens has a foot I attach it there. I also have an Op Tech lens loop available if the lens foot is not attached for some reason. That isn't much different than hand holding a long lens or tripod mounting it by the lens foot.

The camera lens mount is made to handle the weight of a short tele lens or the weight of the camera body with a bit of safety margin. If I have a short lens attached, I use one of the camera strap lugs with the sling.

I don't normally use the tripod mount of the camera for carrying the camera with a heavy lens but I feel safe with that for lenses up to about 120mm.

Violating any of my own normal practices probably wouldn't cause any issues unless I added in some unexpected shock, like the camera slipping out of my hand or me falling on my butt.