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Posts for: Brayyd
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Feb 20, 2023 19:40:31   #
Jules Karney wrote:
I am looking for comments (good or bad) about the Topaz product Photo AI. I already use sharpening and Denoise and like them both. Will the Photo AI quicken my workload?
Thank you in advance,
Jules


I got it free when it first came out. I've updated every week. For me, it just doesn't work all that well. I shoot mostly portraits or other people photos. It regularly messes up hair, faces, and skin. Maybe these are just down the road aspects. DXO PureRaw, on the other hand, produces stellar results and never creates something I have to delete and start over on.
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Sep 16, 2021 13:14:41   #
burkphoto wrote:
You have given her very high resolution images.

People are extremely confused about PPI vs dpi. The PPI is INPUT resolution to a printer driver. The dpi is the OUTPUT resolution from a scanner or a printer.

PPI means, "How many original, created in the camera or from a raw file in post processing pixels am I going to spread over each inch of printed or displayed output?

'dpi' means, "How many scan cells am I recording per original inch of scanned copy?" (The result is stored as pixels in a file!). 'dpi' also means, "How many fine dots of various colors and sizes do I need to print to reproduce each pixel in this image file?

Every JPEG file or TIFF file has an EXIF table that contains a figure for DPI height and DPI width or X resolution and Y resolution. These values can be set to any value. In photography, they mean nothing and say even less! But in the offset printing world, they tell page layout software how large to display an image when it is "flowed" or "placed" onto a page layout. If the resolution is 72dpi, the 4016 x 5020 PIXEL image will be HUGE — 55.78 by 69.72 inches. If the resolution is 300 dpi, it will come in at 4016/300 by 5020/300 inches, or 13.39 by 16.73 inches. But in either case, the page layout artist who understands his/her software can make it fit the space allotted for it.

In short, the dpi of a file does NOT necessarily relate to a particular size. But the dimensions of the file in PIXELS determines how large you can display an image at a particular dpi. Designers who don't understand this are a dime a dozen. They just look at the file header and see a lower number than they would like, without looking at the overall dimensions of the file and realizing it will work.

File size in MB is irrelevant, too (unless you're concerned about storage or network bandwidth), because the file type and the amount of compression applied to the image, and the type of compression used, all play a huge role in determining the file size on disk. The same 16 MegaPIXEL image might be 19.8MB as a raw data file, or 95.6MB as a 16-bit TIFF image in Adobe RGB, or 8.7MB as a 90 quality JPEG image in sRGB. Changing the resolution settings won't affect the file size or pixel dimensions!
You have given her very high resolution images. br... (show quote)


Thanks to everyone who commented. You all helped tremendously. This explanation is exactly what I thought, but I don't deal with this often enough to explain it to people!

Turns out, my client's boss forwarded the photo to the web designer in an email. Of course, the photo was downgraded to something unuseable. I finally encouraged the client to give the link to my file sharing site so the designer could download the photo directly. Problem solved. Again, thanks to all!
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Sep 15, 2021 22:39:42   #
Gene51 wrote:
This may help. From a Sony website:

"DPI refers to the number of printed dots contained within one inch of an image printed by a printer. PPI refers to the number of pixels contained within one inch of an image displayed on a computer monitor."

When an image has a metadata tag that says it is 240 dpi, that number is meaningless until you print. Then the interpretation is that if you printed the image at 240 dpi it would be a given size. If you print your 4016x5020 image at 240 dpi, it would be 16.73" x 20.92".

The truth is you can change that number to 4 dpi or 4000 dpi (without resampling) and it won't make a difference - since you are not changing the actual resolution, in pixels, of your image. What matters is the number of pixels in the image and not the dpi which it seems you understand quite clearly. The person stating the requirements doesn't understand. You are correct - you are providing a 20.2mp image which is not low res by any standard.

Have some fun and change the dpi number to 4096 dpi and see if their heads explode.
This may help. From a Sony website: br br "D... (show quote)


LOL! Thanks! I thought I had it right. Turns out my client's boss managed to downsize the photos when emailing them to the web designer. I knew something had to wrong!
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Sep 15, 2021 16:41:58   #
CHG_CANON wrote:
Another possibility is your client has corrupted the image files between receiving them from you and sending them to the people responsible for the website. Anyone saying 'DPI' is anyway related to the pixel resolution of a pixel-based digital image doesn't know what they're talking about. Apple email is a typical culprit in dynamically and unexpectedly resizing the pixel resolution of image file attachments. If possible, try to cut out the middle man and send the properly sized images to the website administration directly. Or, send your client a public link to access a download site such that the website admin can download the files directly.

Another idea is to ZIP the file(s) and resend to your client as a ZIP attachment. This does nothing to make the JPEG images 'smaller' as a file attachment. But, this approach prevents an email client program from resizing the JPEGs as they're safely enclosed 'as is' inside the ZIP container. Have your client forward the ZIP attachment to the website admin, who will receive the properly sized images when extracted from the ZIP attachment.
Another possibility is your client has corrupted t... (show quote)


I figured that might have happened, so I asked my client to give the link to my file sharing site to the folks working with the photo. I suspect she emailed it to them and it got downsized.
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Sep 15, 2021 16:40:36   #
Merlin1300 wrote:
Open your image in PS - or whatever. Then - go to the Image settings (not Canvas). I'll bet your photo is showing like 42" on the horizontal or vertical image size. Uncheck the 'resample' box so that the aspect ratio and DPI are preserved. Then reduce your image size to 4"x6" or whatever. Your DPI will probably jump up to 800 or more. Then save it and send them the updated file. I believe John Swanda has it right - your recipients need to be educated - as they should be able to perform the above operations on their own computer.
Open your image in PS - or whatever. Then - go to... (show quote)


Thanks! You are correct. That's what was checked, so fixed that.
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Sep 15, 2021 15:54:34   #
ClarkG wrote:
With most photo editors, you can go in and up the DPI to 300. The other party is probably seeing the 240 dpi and thinking it should be 300 dpi. They are wrong, but you can humor them by making dpi change. Good luck!


That's what I thought! Thanks!
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Sep 15, 2021 15:25:48   #
Najataagihe wrote:
Reduce the size to 1080 on the horizontal axis and reduce the quality of the .jpg.


Well.... I don't want low res photos, the complaint is that they're already low res and they want high res. I don't think reducing them would help. Thanks, though!
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Sep 15, 2021 15:15:52   #
Help me out, please. I did some headshots for a lady but the folks using her pics (for a website) are telling her that the photos are low res. However, they are 4016 X 5020 pixels and the file is 9.33MB in size. Can't be low res! The person asking for new pics told the lady they are 240 DPI. I understand that as a print measure. So... what to do?
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Mar 7, 2021 11:58:44   #
CHG_CANON wrote:
The Adobe software does not use the camera settings like picture style, or Active-D, nor sharpening, nor noise reduction. The Nikon software does when displaying the image as these in-camera settings will be applied to the saved / export version of the RAW. As compared to LR Classic, the most obvious visual difference is that Adobe defaults to a 'picture style' = Adobe Standard. If you'd go into the camera calibration section (Develop module) after a NEF import to LR and change the profile to Camera Standard, you'll immediately get closer to the colors and saturation of Nikon (or Canon, Sony, etc) for their 'standard' profiles.
The Adobe software does not use the camera setting... (show quote)


Thanks! Appreciate the info. I figured it was something like this.
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Mar 7, 2021 10:11:33   #
Since I shoot with Nikons, I downloaded the new Nikon Studio program. The layout is a bit of a challenge, but not all that hard. I discovered you can set it up to use Photoshop (or Lightroom Classic) as an external editor. I had played around with a few photos, but after setting up Photoshop in NS, it gave me a chance to see something I'd missed. Nikon Studio seems to display my photos better, and more like I saw the image when I took the photo than either Photoshop or Lightroom Classic. The pics were brighter, and not as "dark" (don't know how to describe that any other way. Maybe it's because NS picks up the Active D-Lighting settings? I noticed this by starting in NS then moved the photo to Photoshop to do some additional tweaking. When the photo opened in Photoshop, it was noticeably darker or "muddy". Now, it's not bad, and the change is really only slight, but it's a different display of the photo. Anybody else notice this? I'm using Photoshop CC.
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Nov 29, 2019 20:25:28   #
I have a D610 and a D750. Use both mostly for portraits. Both produce beautiful photos. Can't tell much difference between the two, honestly, but I'm almost always lighting my subjects with OCF, so low-light noise isn't really an issue.
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Dec 12, 2018 15:30:10   #
mborn wrote:
Adobe just released a new update to both versions of LR. It includes the Nikon Z6 compatibly


I love that you can now rearrange the right side tools. Makes workflow easier.
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Nov 13, 2018 10:53:33   #
I suspect Nikon keeps promoting the D750 for people like me. I have a D610 and love it. But I recently bought a D750. Why? Because it was in my price range and takes great photos. Grateful I didn't have to spring for a more expensive camera to do what I do, and do it well.
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Oct 2, 2018 09:41:22   #
If that Tokina lens has an aperture ring, it must be locked at the smallest aperture setting. Otherwise, you will get a error message. Could be the ring is off just enough for the error. I have Tokina lenses that require this, and the lock switch is easier to move to the unlock position than you'd think.
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Aug 5, 2018 22:08:46   #
Mister H wrote:
Based on this groups experience, is it better to shoot color and edit to black and white? Or set DSLR to black and white mode to start with. Curious if the quality ends up the same or not. My eye can't tell, but something may be pointed out that I'm not looking for. If this has been beat to death, let me know and I'll try to dig for it. Thank you.


I love shooting B&W portraits. I often set the camera to monochrome so I can quickly see what the tones are doing in the photo. Sometimes, it's a way to see the interplay of light and shadows. But I also shoot RAW so in post I can manually manipulate the color tones, etc., and fine tune the end product. Of all these options, I think shooting RAW is the key to good B&W photos. Just as with color photos, RAW simply gives you options you don't otherwise have. Here's a sample from a fun shoot this past week.


(Download)
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