These are very pedestrian tourist snapshots, why play like they are not?

With all due respect to purists who like to shoot raw, I can shoot in color jpeg and convert to B&W in Silver Efex Pro and make the color jpeg look anyway I like. One quick example attached, converted from color photo above.

I have a Sawyer projector and many round trays, they do not fit the Airequipt projector, the round trays are different.

If you are talking about a street camera, my Fuji X-H1 is the best street camera I have ever used. Adequate MP's, body well made and in Japan, great tilt monitor and light weight and inconspicuous.
What else could one want?

Nikon D800 stopped shooting when my CF card got full in London last week.
Deleted a few photos and it started working again. First time I have had
that happen.

My first real camera was a rangefinder with a Montgomery Ward
brand name on it. The camera was actually a Konica Auto S2 with the
Wards name on it. Took pictures with it all over the world for many years.

Earlier I said:
I took Rongnongno's advise and took 3 shots without changing settings on camera and got three different variations of f stop and speed and 3 different light levels in resulting photo.
Update:
I may have found the culprit- a feature that I seldom check because I don't use it - the bracketing button was set at F3. I changed it to F0 and the above noted problem disapeared.

I took Rongnongno's advise and took 3 shots without changing settings on camera and got three different variations of f stop and speed and 3 different light levels in resulting photos.

Thanks for input from all responders!

Anyone else have problems and hopefully solutions for inconsistent metering results with D800? I have tried every variation available and cannot get photos that are consistently exposed within an acceptable range. Anyone know if Active D lighting might have something to do with it. The only way I have found that works is to take a test shot and then change method or EVF every time the shadows/light change.

How did these imposters get to use the CCR name?

Interesting that Nikon's list only shows f1.4 primes and no f1.8 primes. Tests reports, like DXO, usually show only minor and sometimes no differences in sharpness between the 1.4 and the 1.8 cousins. Do you think we can take their list at face value, or is Nikon thinking people who shell out big bucks for a D800/D810 will likely pay extra for the 1.4's?

On D800 body:
28 f1.8 = 21 sharpness vs 24-70 f2.8 =15 sharpness

35 f1.8 G = 21 sharp vs 35 f1.4 =17 sharp

50 f1.8D = 17 sharp vs 50 f1.4 G = 16 sharp

85 f1.8G =27 sharp vs 85 f1.4G =30 sharp

Looks like most of us who don't shoot for a living can get close or better sharpness and save some money by ignoring the Nikon sales pitch.

Save the photo on your computer as it is in the camera. When you get ready to make a print, go into pp and crop it to the print size you want to obtain, ie. 4x6 will get you the normal print or a 8x12 with nothing left out.
Crop to 8x10 and get a 8x10. Save the cropped image with different extension in case you need to get to the original again in future.

Corel Photoshop is easy to use, cheap and will do everything and more that you asked for.

Not very funny at all. Don't know about Oregon, but in Texas that is a felony offense.

Let me also ask, I'm looking at f2.8 lenses because I want to shoot indoors at faster shutter speeds (grandkids just being grandkids don't sit still for long) without a flash. Is an f3.5-4.5 lens noticeably slower than an f2.8 lens? Sorry for such a newly question - I'm an enthusiastic photographer, but not at all technical [yet].

It is less than one stop slower which is easily compensated for by increasing ISO. I shoot grandkids inside all the time with it. My copy is a factory refurb that I paid $ 299 for and I can't tell it from brand new. If you want to see some results, go to Flickr.com and do a group search by typing in the name of the lens. Attached photo is inside action shot of grandkid, no flash.