Even that depends on the video - I do cinema (ok, that makes my stuff sound way better than it is; what I mean to say is that I shoot staged, planned productions). If you're doing live events or something like that, the video AF will be important; if you can set stuff up beforehand like I have the luxury of doing, you can go all manual.

To the OP though: Go to a store, get your hands on one, and see if you notice a difference. If you fall in love with the touchscreen (or whatever else), go for it. If not, it may not be worth the money.

Even that depends on the video - I do cinema (ok, that makes my stuff sound way better than it is; what I mean to say is that I shoot staged, planned productions). If you're doing live events or something like that, the video AF will be important; if you can set stuff up beforehand like I have the luxury of doing, you can go all manual.

To the OP though: Go to a store, get your hands on one, and see if you notice a difference. If you fall in love with the touchscreen (or whatever else), go for it. If not, it may not be worth the money.

Sorry for the hiatus there…

MKPhoto, I love what you did with that. My attempts had all been with the image as a whole; I hadn't tried portions individually. (Duh!) I personally go for a bit more of a warmer tone for something like this - the face color in wholehearted's second post is pretty accurate - but the exposure fixes really did it! And the soccer net removal really smoothes things out.

By the way, everyone feel free to upload/download/do whatever with this one. I thought I mentioned it earlier, but a few posters were still asking.

I have a 60D and I love it; while I've never used the 70D, I wasn't overwhelmed by the touchscreen interface on the T5i (I think… or T6i?). The 60D has enough external controls for me that I wouldn't need it. The upgraded processor is sexy, but I don't shoot a lot of high-speed bursts in RAW, so the 60D is once again good enough for me, personally. Video AF? I shoot cinematic video on occasion, where I have the luxury of blocking things beforehand and practicing wonderfully smooth buttery hand focus pulls. But if I were to shoot a wedding or other event where I needed spontaneous video AF, that would really come in handy. If Canon makes an 80D with more nice improvements, I might go for that.

Basically just look for what you have, what you want, and how much of both of those are in the 70D. Do you shoot a lot of RAW? Do you need the video AF? Are you a touchscreen or a button photographer? Do you need these things enough to justify the extra $$? We can't answer those questions for you, but hopefully that's a good place to start.

Good luck choosing!

Looks great! Warmer WB and what else?

Yes, and a good part of it is my fault too, for not checking I had what I wanted. This wasn't a serious shoot or anything, the piggyback just happened, so I snapped a couple shots of it. I simply happened to come across it in post, and wondered what there was to be done with it. :?

Are you referring to the one in which the guy tells us to use the "Cartoon" filter? The link is to a search result page...

Yeah, go ahead and do whatever you want to with it. Same goes for anyone else out there! :thumbup:

So this is a photo that's been giving me a bit of frustration for a while. It's not of much importance to me, but it's an interesting PP challenge.
I took this after a friend had shot a few pictures and I didn't realize he had set my camera to shutter priority at 1/3200, so I ended up exposing at ISO 2000, getting a lot of noise, and faded colors. (he also set the picture style to my Technicolor Cinestyle preset, which I reserve for tweaking on video shoots, so colors are faded at all ISOs.) I recently tried fixing it up in GIMP (That's all my budget can take, no Lightroom here), and I just can't quite make them pop. Any suggestions? or did the high shutter speed/ISO (and Cinestyle - in case you're wondering, never use Cinestyle for stills) just mess it up too much?

Canon 60D, EF-S18-55 3.5-5.6 IS II 1/3200 f/5 ISO 2000

If you're shooting Canon glass on Canon bodies, does the peripheral illumination correction not fix it? Or is this vignetting that's occurring after the PIC?

Something more like an 85mm prime would be nice here. you could still go for around f/1.8, but with a longer focal length to make the background larger relative to the subject by its compression of the parallax shift over that distance. So the background isn't exactly out of focus by a greater degree, but what are small red berries in the original would become larger, less distinct orbs.
But for us APS-C users, a 50mm is more or less our 85mm equivalent, so 85 can be a weird length to have. I guess all I'm saying is that it would be a good lens for this particular shot.

Well, I ended up going with the 17-50 OS HSM - I found a great deal on it used at Adorama, and I don't expect to need the extra tele range that much. When it arrives I'll let you know my thoughts, in the meantime thanks for all the input!

Pounder, I'll make sure to point that out to them next time I fly! :-)
JoAnne, What have they said about your gear? :?:

Looks fine on my 2009-ish MacBook Pro. Do they look bad on your monitors once they're on Facebook? Or just someone else's?
Merry Christmas!

My budget consists of spending as little money as possible in all circumstances. :| So while the 18-35 and 17-50 are both really enticing, they're just not really an option, unless I could find something really cheap used…
Much as I wish I were doing projects that could end up in professional work, that just doesn't happen, and because I'm not seeing a full-frame upgrade anytime in the future I've been looking mainly at the DC line.

Merry Christmas all!