I think Jerry is right, I have seen only one Nikon version of this lens. There are a couple versions of the Nikon 70-300 but not the 28-300.

Then I don't see any issues with the configuration you have described. My main computer is a Core i7 with 16GB RAM and it flies.

I am not familiar with the HP Envoy, so in addition to running a 64 bit operating system, you will also need to confirm that the mainboard will support 16GB of RAM. If you are ordering the laptop with that much RAM installed, it obviously will run it.

If you plan to use the laptop as your primary PC, you should also think about how you will handle your file back up. I use a desktop as my primary PC and have two internal and two external hard drives for file backup.

I use a laptop as my secondary PC. It has a Core i5 processor and 6GB of RAM. It runs Photoshop CC and Light Room without any issues. You don't mention the processor you plan to run in the Envoy, but if it is an i5 or faster, you should be very happy with the system you describe.

I have always heard it pronounced as RET-nuh. But, it has never made sense to me.

Actually, I would be happy to send folks a PDF of both documents. They can send me their e-mail address at: david@thedigitaldisciple.net.

The project started when I was trying to sort out all the different screen sizes and resolutions for myself and as part of my job. I decided that other folks might benefit from the information, so I posted it on my blog too. You may remember that I posted the link a couple months ago on the photography forum in response to a question and it got a lot of activity. I wanted to post the updated forms, but didn't think they belonged on the photography section.

You're right that the tablet segment has exploded in the three years since the first iPad was released. Tablets continue to get better and cheaper.

If you are in the market for a tablet this Christmas, I have created a chart for my blog showing the screen resolutions and screen sizes of popular 7, 8, and 10 inch tablets: http://thedigitaldisciple.net/tablet-screen-resolution-chart/ I posted this information on the Main Photography forum in response to a post a couple months ago and it generated some interest. I have updated it since that time.

I have also created a graphic showing how the screen sizes compare: http://thedigitaldisciple.net/2013/11/30/tablet-screen-size-comparisons/

I hope you find them helpful.

I have had a similar problem with my Epson Artisan printer when I print on a different kind of paper than the paper I have selected in the printer properties.

You'll get some variation of this answer from everyone who responds. As a film photographer, none of us were purists. We chose the film and paper we used to get a certain look or feel to a photo. We might also make other changes to a print if we had access to a darkroom or a custom lab. Digital allows you to make the changes much more easily and saves time and money spent on film, paper and chemicals. Post processing, even if it is simple cropping to improve the composition, has always been part of the photographic process and, to me, it can often make the difference between and average photo and a very good one.

That's a good idea and picking up a couple books on starting a photography business is also a good idea. As this thread develops, it seems like you also want to make sure that it is clear that you own the rights to your pictures and can sell photo rights to the bands or use them in other ways to generate additional income. If you want to use the pictures commercially, you will need releases and the books can give you some good samples.

The short answer is probably not. As a user, you buy the lens and make no promise to use it only on a camera body of the same make or brand. So, simply using the lens on another brand camera will not create a cause of action.

The adapters may use designs or other protected intellectual property (IP) of the various manufacturers and that use would need to be properly licensed. If an adapter were found to be infringing, there could theoretically be an action against an individual user because the U.S. laws forbid you to make, use, or sell an infringing device. But, as a practical matter, the IP owner will go after the deep pocket of the manufacturer and seller and will most likely leave the users out of the fight. Also, to the extent that the IP owner is a camera company, they may like the idea of you buying their lens to go with another maker's camera body or visa versa. If the IP is owned by a "Patent Troll," there is a greater risk that they would go after individual users. But, at least up until now, there is only one case I am familiar with here in the U.S. where a Patent Troll has threatened individual users and the case is not related to photography equipment. Good question. I hope this helps.

The only shot that is overexposed is the one with the flash. As we have discussed already, don't use a fill flash in the live concert shots. There are no exposure issues in the first two samples. If you want to darken them a bit to reflect the lighting in the venue, take your EV down a stop.

The histogram will give you information about the distribution of light and dark pixels in the image, it will give you little information about your exposure. A well exposed image with a large dark subject will show a histogram weighted to the left and a well exposed light subject will show a histogram weighted to the right. If you have a histogram "piled up" on either end, you will have areas of the image with no detail in the blacks or with blown highlights. If you want some helpful reading, I recommend Brian Peterson's book on Exposure if you haven't read it already.

Don't be put off by CTHahn. His posts are generally caustic.

Finally, good luck tomorrow night and let us know how it goes.

If you can get that close, I'd stay with the 50mm to shoot at the lower f-stops. A short fast medium telephoto like an 85mm f1.8 would give you some great close shots. I bought mine on ebay over 10 years ago and use it all the time.

You are getting great access to the stage. The second shot is my favorite. There seems to be some motion blur in the first shot and the slower lens in the third forced you to use the flash.

As JR recommended, start by turning off your flash. The flash will ruin the light your a trying to capture and it could get you ejected from the venue. I am not familiar with Canon lenses, but in the Nikon world I use a 50mm f1.4, and 85mm f1.8 and a 70-300 4.5-5.6 zoom for concerts. If I could afford it, I would buy and use the Nikon 70-200 f2.8 zoom. I believe from reading UHH that Canon has versions of all those lenses that would work for you.

With the flash off, meter for the faces. You may need to spot meter depending on how the performers are lit and how close you can get to them. I like to blur the background by using a wide aperture, like f2.8. That also gives the advantage of letting you use faster shutter speeds to prevent motion blur.

Use the ISO that will support your aperture and shutter settings. I don't know how high you can go with your camera before you start to get noise that will hurt your image quality.

Test auto white balance to see if it preserves the colors and the mood you want. I shoot in auto WB or Daylight and adjust it later in Photoshop if I don't like the result. If you want to adjust the WB later, you will need to shoot in RAW.

Also, to preserve the dark atmosphere of the concert, when I am taking pictures of the full stage and not close ups of the performers, I will take the EV down a stop or two.

Here are links to some recent concert pictures. The link takes you to where the concert shots start and you can click through the set to see the different lighting: http://davidmcpherson.smugmug.com/Montgomery-Community-Church/EPIC-at-Montgomery-Community/Grand-Welcoming/i-CJGwwDC

http://davidmcpherson.smugmug.com/Montgomery-Community-Church/MCC-Easter-Concerts/MCC-Easter-2010/i-qKWChqP

These were taken at concerts at my church, but the principles are the same as concert pictures in a bar with the possible exception that no one has dumped a beer on my camera.

I'd love to be a regular band/concert photographer. What you're doing sounds like fun. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

This is a nice chart. I have seen several versions of this information and this is one of the clearest. Where did you find this? I am working on a blog post on camera sensors and would like to give credit to the creator.