Outsourcing and job shipped overseas - why should photography be any different than other jobs in this country. News is slanted by the politic viewpoints of the owners of the firm whether it be printed on paper or prodcast over some other media. The days of honest reporting are long gone. Jobs are eliminated, outsourced or turned into part time work to avoid paying benefits. It is just the way it is.

I'd recommend two lenses as possibilities in the under $600 price range. The Cannon 85mm F1.8 is an excellent portrait lens. Another choice is the Canon 70 - 200mm F4.0L at around $600. The latter is a super sharp lens that gives flexibility of focal length and is an excellent choice for outdoor portraits along with other uses. I have much more expensive lenses but I still use these as I like to have lenses mounted on different bodies so I don't need to change lenses which disrupts the flow of the shoot.

Any thing white and small enough for a model to hold or to be placed on something such as 2'X2'. Cheapest solution is aluminum foil. You can also silver or light gold wrapping paper.

First, I would make your image as sharp as possible and not use any ointment applied a lens filter. It is much easier and safer to create a sharp image and blur it than take a blurred image and attempt to make it sharp. The nylon trick is old school but you can also get lens filter that is used for providing soft looks.
The real key is strong lighting close to the face, stretching the neck towards the camera to reduce neck wrinkles, and placing a reflector just under the face.
Of course, it is important to ascertain that the subject wants this type of look. Many older people are proud of their aged faces and want to wear their wrinkles proudly.

A fast shutter speed freezes the movement of you subject (bird) and the IS/VR reduces the effect of the photographer not holding the camera steady.

I'm a Canon shooter and use the 300mm F4.0L IS and the 400mm F5.6L lenses for photographing birds in flight on my Canon 7D bodies.

Two types of tripods are normally used for this type of shooting. You want both sturdy and a solution that reduces ground vibration. To accomplish both you need either wood or carbon fiber tripods. Expect to use a longer/heavier lens in the future so buy a tripod and head to accommodate it now. Gimbal heads are very popular. Wimberley and Jobu are the leading manufacturers. I use a Acratec GV2 Ball/Gimbal head. You really need to try these tools to find what's comfortable for you.

Two types of tripods are normally used for this type of shooting. You want both sturdy and a solution that reduces ground vibration. To accomplish both you need either wood or carbon fiber tripods. Expect to use a longer/heavier lens in the future so buy a tripod and head to accommodate it now. Gimbal heads are very popular. Wimberley and Jobu are the leading manufacturers. I use a Acratec GV2 Ball/Gimbal head. You really need to try these tools to fond what's comfortable for you.

IMHO, lens selection is a matter of the environment in which you are going to shoot, what you will be concentrating on such as people, buildings, etc, and your own style & personality. If shooting people and you are an extravert, then a shorter lens may be your choice especially if you are going to engage people while photographing them. If you are shooting scenes such a long city streets or want to photograph people at some distance, then a longer lens such as a zoom may be a better choice. If you want to shoot close to people without their knowledge, then a smaller camera rather than a DLSR maybe the choice. There is no one solution for everyone. Do some street photography before spending money on equipment. Experience is the best mentor. Shooting and watching other photographers capture images are the best ways to develop your style.

you are correct. A 50mm on film range finder camera is 50mm. To use the equivalent of 50mm on a APS-C sensor camera, that would be about a 32mm lens. (1.6 X 32mm = 50mm).

First, I'd ask the group you joined for their recommendation. From the equipment you all ready have, I'd take the 18-55mm and leave the rest home. You may find that many of the photographers are using point & shoot cameras having at least 12mp. Being small, they are less obvious. The main initial goals are to learn and make new acquaintances. Also, if the group have images posted on the net from previous events, study them.

First, I'd ask the group you joined for their recommendation. From the equipment you all ready have, I'd take the 18-55mm and leave the rest home. You may find that many of the photographers are using point & shoot cameras having at least 12mp. Being small, they are less obvious. The main initial goals are to learn and make new acquaintances. Also, if the group have images posted on the net from previous events, study them.

I have a 7D and use a Tokina 11-16 F2.8. The faster lens is great for low light. I am pleased with the quality of the images produced with this lens.

[quote=Marinole][quote=Birdguide]

I am eagerly awaiting responses to your question as I am in the same boat and was thinking about making a post like yours.


I've used both RPS and Hahnel units with good success with various Canon bodies. I have used these units at a distance of 50 feet and more without a problem. Generally, these have cost between $35 and $55.

Yes, you need the accessory made for the MR-EX lite. Go to BH and look at the attachments for this lite. You'll need the 58mm attachment if I remember the specs for the 100mm macro.