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Jul 5, 2019 12:26:34   #
"Infinity and beyond".
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Dec 13, 2018 14:07:24   #
baconjerry642 wrote:
Do any of you have the URL's for sites that sell good film (35mm) at reasonable prices. I have 2 Olympus OM-3 cameras that I purchased and used quite a bit in the 1970's. I've been thinking about digging them out and giving them another go.

Thank you so much,

Willard


You have a couple of OM-3 bodies?
Not sure you know what you have, but this is the rarest of the OM line. Fewer made than any other OM body, and can be worth quite a bit.

By-the-way...B&H probably your best bet for film.
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Feb 6, 2018 10:17:30   #
I'm betting on a corrupt card.
Swap it out to a different one and see if it makes a difference.
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Nov 21, 2017 09:46:34   #
Are you using the specific paper profiles for that printer and paper combination?
Just having the monitor calibrated isn't enough when printing. The monitor needs to match the printer and paper.
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Nov 14, 2017 12:51:53   #
Looks like you're not getting suggestions. I've been there a few times and a couple that will fit into your "close to the road" requirements are...

**Sunrise would be directly behind the old visitor's center (not the new one, but the old one that's now a small museum). Get there before sunrise, but don't give up on this one when the sun just comes up. There will be a distinct shadow of the mountains over your shoulder that will give a really nice pattern to the scene in front of you. Wait it out a while.

**Sunset would be the famous scene of the Watchman mountain from the main bridge just before the turn into the valley. You can set up on the sidewalk of the bridge or go under the bridge for a different view.

Just to get you started. Drive the valley, or drive through the tunnel to the east side. Can't go wrong at any time of the day.
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Aug 17, 2017 15:17:36   #
rehess wrote:
Why don't you post images here, with "store original" checked, so we can see what they look like to us? People here love to speculate, but right now that is all people are doing.


And how would posting an image here (hi-rez or not) help with what a print from Costco looks like?
Unless you could see the actual printed image, I don't see a benefit of looking at his digital image on your digital monitor.
Who knows if the two monitors are even closely calibrated to each other.
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Aug 8, 2017 12:21:12   #
JR45 wrote:
Try ISO=100, f11, 1/100. Adjust from there.


Sunny 16 . . . Loony 11
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Apr 5, 2017 12:42:46   #
I have the Fuji GW690iii, and have used it only for my "carry around" medium format. For landscapes I use a Mamiya RB67 with a couple of different lenses, so I can't really attest to the Fuji's ability for landscape work. I can tell you that the Fuji images have a "feel" to them that I can't get with the Mamiya. The lens is superb, and the camera is lots of fun to use. You should see the looks on people's faces when you pull that out of your camera bag on the street.

I have just had the brief chance to play with a friends new Fuji GFX 50S digital medium format, and have seen some of his work with it, and I can say that I'm very impressed with the output of that new camera. Does it compare to my film medium format images? We shoot different styles of work, but it would be VERY hard to attain the technical quality of that new Fuji with anything I have. The detail in his images are amazing.

The look between our two medium format images is different. I don't know how else to describe it...just different.
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Mar 3, 2017 10:56:26   #
photoman022 wrote:
The reason you'll need a longer shutter speed (and a tripod--even though you don't want to use one) is that an ND filter is dark; it holds back light; you'll need to compensate that loss of light by either increasing your ISO, f/stop, or shutter speed. To get the silky effect of water you need to increase the shutter speed, which will make any camera shake very apparent if you hand hold the camera.


Sorry, but this comment is very misleading to the typical beginning photographer, which the OP appears to be. The main purpose of the ND filter (for the condition the OP asked) is to slow down the shutter speed. Using the f stop or ISO to compensate for the loss of available light would just defeat the purpose of using it.
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Feb 2, 2017 15:41:15   #
Huey Driver wrote:
Tried Ctrl


Not just Ctrl, but you have to push Ctrl and 0 at the same time to make the image full size fit the screen.
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Feb 2, 2017 14:41:30   #
Huey Driver wrote:
Need Photoshop help

I must have done something but have no idea what or how to correct it. When I open a photograph and hit the view tab and then full screen it used to enlarge the picture to fit the screen vertically. Now it makes the picture way bigger than that. Also the slider on the right side of the screen where you could move a picture up and down doesn’t seem to be there. If I use the magnifying glass tool I can enlarge or reduce the picture but the picture never will exactly fit the screen top to bottom. Depending on how many times I click it is larger than the screen (vertically) but never just top to bottom in the screen.

Any ideas what I might have done and how to correct it. Thanks in advance.

Huey
Need Photoshop help br br I must have done someth... (show quote)


I'm sorry, but I don't know what you did, but this is how I fill the screen and maneuver around in PhotoShop . . .

--You can size the image to fit the full screen by pressing Control and the 0 key (that's zero) at the same time.
--You can increase size or decrease size by pressing Control and + or - at the same time.
--You can move around in a larger than full screen size image by pressing the space bar. This makes a grab handle (the little fist) that you can move around pulling the screen with you.

To me these keyboard shortcuts come easier than using the mouse to do similar functions.
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Dec 19, 2016 16:54:31   #
I know it's a sign of the economic times . . .

but how do we expect brick and mortar camera stores to stay open, when we order from B&H and then run to our local stores for their help when something goes wrong?
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Dec 8, 2016 16:37:13   #
Is this the set that sold on Goodwill just a week or so ago?
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Sep 23, 2016 12:39:01   #
kenArchi wrote:
Why do digital photos come out dark. They look like they are under exposed.
The first photo is correct exposure at f8 1/400 sec. I use a Gossen meter incident reading.
The second photo is f8 1/200 sec.
The second photo brightness is actually how I see it.
When I was using film and doing my own scanning with the Nikon 2400 scanner, the scans would not be dark like digitals, without doing any adjustments.
These photos are from raw files, no adjustments.
Am I not understanding something here?
It seems like I always have to over expose my photos.
Maybe my camera needs exposure adjustment somehow.
Why do digital photos come out dark. They look lik... (show quote)


OK, am I just missing something? After reading 4 pages of back and forth, the OP states that the second picture was taken one full stop brighter (f8 @ 1/200 vs. f8 @ 1/400 for the first). Isn't that just the simple reason for brighter image?
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Aug 24, 2016 13:41:08   #
Now that this has gone on for four pages, has anyone noticed the lack of the OP responding to anything.
OR that there never was a question in the original post? Just a statement.

Sure got a lot of people to post a lot of mis-information and opinions. And managed to get a few F-bombs thrown in also.
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