I would save my image as a TIFF and work with that. Once you start messing with the jpg you can't go back.

You can open your jpg in Photoshop Camera Raw using Bridge.

If you shoot full-frame, it's a wide angle to normal lens. Make sure that this lens fits in to your photo style and needs before you spend the kind of money they demand.

All flat panel monitors are not alike..

Most cheaper panels are TN panels that are cheap to manufacture, are bright, and respond quickly...good for gamers, but not the best for photographers..

The best for photography and truest colors are IPS panels.. but they are more expensive...

Research the two types, see what you really want, then see if this panel meets your needs... :)

One advantage on the new G cameras in P mode is that you can shoot in Raw.. the G's also have a built in Neutral Density filter, if that hasn't been mentioned..

Great camera.. you never need to use green box auto with this camera..

People are getting the terms confused.. EV, or exposure value is the camera settings for proper exposure.. all of them.

So, if you change the shutter speed by +1, then you are changing the EV by +1. Like wise, if you change the Aperture by +1, then you are still changing the EV by +1..

If you are in Aperture priority, and you dial in +1EV, then the camera will change the shutter speed to achieve this. If you are in Shutter Priority and dial in +1EV, then the camera will change the aperture to achieve the same exposure.

So, to answer your question technically, yes, in Manual, there is no difference... If you manually change the Shutter speed by 1 step, then you are changing the EV by +/- 1. Likewise, if you manually change the Aperture by 1 stop, then too, you are changing the EV by +/- 1.

Finally, changing the Aperture affects the DOF.. changing the Shutter speed does not. If you are bracketing Manually, then you should change the Shutter Speed by +/- 1EV (or whatever exposure you want to bracket) to maintain DOF. If you are in Aperture Priority and you dial in +/- 1EV, the f-stop will stay constant and the camera will use the shutter speed for the exposure (EV) change.

You shouldn't have to transfer anything to Bridge..??

When you open Bridge, it will give you a menu of any folder resident in your computer and show you the contents. When you open a folder of images, they will be thumbnails that you click on to open in CS5.. There should never be a loss in data

Edit: looks like we were typing at the same time..

Skylight filters are warming filters...

They are good when a lot of blue is in the spectrum.. Arid deserts, snowy mountains, and ocean beaches..

I use them in the Desert all the time.. I do need protection from dust and sand, and the warming affect is pleasing..

The affect, or cancelling the affect can be done in post processing, so their use is a personal one...

The Tamron and Vivitar are probably made to fit your lens, and they are much cheaper than a Canon Converter.. which will not fit that lens..

However, if you are hoping that you will then have a usable 600mm lens, you are likely to be disappointed with the results.. Converters always introduce some distortion and IQ degradation.

If you view your images with just Windows Viewer, it will not "see" raw image data.. You did the right thing installing the Canon Software.. Either Canons Zoombrowser or Digital Photo Professional will show your raw Canon files just fine..

Drop Box is what you're looking for... or the like..

Google dropbox.com or Box.net the two that are probably the two most commonly used to share full size files back and forth..

If you don't use the jpg that the camera produces, there is no reason to shoot one.. If you process your raw to jpg, you will likely use different parameters than the ones used in-camera..

Typically, you would find it usefull if you needed to send/use jpg images immediately, but intended to archive and process the raw at a later time for best IQ.

Proper exposure is always proper exposure.. you should not need to do "trial and error".

If you choose to use "manual settings" then you need to know what the exposure is. You need to meter the light. Either use your cameras meter or a separate one, but you have to know.. exposure is not a guess. Look at your meter settings in all areas of the arena..

For stopping action, you seldom need a shutter speed greater than 1/250, or 1/500. If you want to use Shutter Priority, that's fine.. Set it for 1/250 and set your ISO to 400. Then check your meter readings around the arena and see if your aperture will be adequate. It should be fine if you are using an f2.8 lens.. Keep in mind though, if the aperture is that wide, you will lose some depth of field..

Manually setting your camera is fine... but you have to set it to proper exposure settings.. you can't just use anything :)

I think that HDR toning has it's place... however, it is usually overdone, leaving a burnt, overprocessed look..

I can appreciate it as art.. but not as a good photograph unless it's done for what it was designed.. to balance the dynamic range extremes...

(I think that I just said that I agree )

Canon makes excellent teleconverters in either 1.4x, or 2.0x. They are quite commonly used on high quality medium length lenses to give more reach in both wildlife and bird photography..

The 1.4x has excellent characteristics and is almost indistinguishable from the primary lens (depending on the lens, of course), but it does degrade the image and reduce available light by stop.. they should not be used on marginal quality glass because they do degrade IQ slightly, so a marginal image, made a little bit worse, can be frustrating..

The 2.0x isn't as widely used. You almost always will see visible degradation and you lose 2 stops of light.. Some have good luck with them... exposure has to be darn near perfect though, or it shows..

You cannot get a super telephoto by simply adding an extender... you will always lose something, so be sure that the trade-off is what you can live with...

I have thousands of images of Death Valley.. It's one of my favorite places... Some places take all day, like the Racetrack. Others are closer and can be done from Vegas on a day trip, like the Borax works, Badwater, or Zabriskie point..

I'm in the process of posting a lot of Death Valley here..

APhotoSite or you can ask me there, any questions about the Desert, where I have been photographing for 40 years..