Triplets Loc: Reading, MA

I have a Nikon D3100, so in order to do bracketing, I have to do it namually. Is there a difference between changing the shutter speed by +/- one stop and changing the exposure value by +/- 1?

shadow1284 Loc: Mid-West Michigan

When I started shooting HDR which requires shooting a series of the same view in different settings I used tv(shutter speed)shooting mode to make my changes Changing ev in tv mode causes a change in DOF(depth of field) in each image. This causes slightly different areas of sharpness and blurr, i:e f2.8, f3.0, f3.5, and doesnt give you the exact image in each frame.
I then learned that in order to get the best results in multi inage prossing, especially in high contrast images is to shoot in A(apature) mode. and adjusting your shots +/- 1 to two stops. This adjusts the image on each frame by a measure of incoming light but keeps the DOF the same.

Stef C Loc: Conshohocken (near philly) PA

I also have the 3100. Can't you just adjust for the exposure compensation on the info screen -1.0 and then +1.0?

update: nevermind, i re-read and saw if you asked if there was a difference. I'm not sure if there is a difference, but i've done it the way i mentioned.

Triplets Loc: Reading, MA

Thanks Shadow -- so even in Ap mode, the EV effects the DOF?

nikron7 Loc: Indianapolis

Shadow is correct. I also have a 3100 and I use manual, setting my aperature and ISO and let the camera set the shutter speed as I manually do the increasing or decreasing the plus or minus manually.

Triplets Loc: Reading, MA

Thanks Nikron.

shadow1284 Loc: Mid-West Michigan

Nikron, If you use manuel mode and set the A and ISO doesn't your camera maintain the SS as set. I'm thinking in A mode you can set the Av and ISO and let the camera change the SS.

snowbear

^ +1. Shoot in manual (metered exposure is middle node) and adjust only the ISO to go up/down. I'd assign the ISO to the Fn button

professorwheeze Loc: Maine, USA

Another technique although most will call it fake-HDR (I prefer faux-HDR!) is to shoot in RAW. Process it with 3 or more exposure levels in post production. Otherwise, I shoot my 3100D in manual most of the time and adjust EV +/-1. Honestly, I don't care for most HDR prints. They remind me of the laser prints that abounded in the '80's.

nikron7 Loc: Indianapolis

Shadow, If I set my ISO (I set it low (100) for sunrises and sunsets) to maintain saturation of colors) and set my aperature usually f/16 or f/22, the camera will set the shutter speed. Usually I bracket by adjusting the exposure adjustment +/-. As I increase or decrease, my aperature still stays the same and so does my ISO, but the camera will adjust my SS.
In those situations my SS is the least priority.

Wabbit Loc: Arizona Desert

Aperture changes your depth of field. So if your depth of field is important use Aperture priority mode, the camera will choose a corresponding shutter speed.

LarryD Loc: Mojave Desert

People are getting the terms confused.. EV, or exposure value is the camera settings for proper exposure.. all of them.

So, if you change the shutter speed by +1, then you are changing the EV by +1. Like wise, if you change the Aperture by +1, then you are still changing the EV by +1..

If you are in Aperture priority, and you dial in +1EV, then the camera will change the shutter speed to achieve this. If you are in Shutter Priority and dial in +1EV, then the camera will change the aperture to achieve the same exposure.

So, to answer your question technically, yes, in Manual, there is no difference... If you manually change the Shutter speed by 1 step, then you are changing the EV by +/- 1. Likewise, if you manually change the Aperture by 1 stop, then too, you are changing the EV by +/- 1.

Finally, changing the Aperture affects the DOF.. changing the Shutter speed does not. If you are bracketing Manually, then you should change the Shutter Speed by +/- 1EV (or whatever exposure you want to bracket) to maintain DOF. If you are in Aperture Priority and you dial in +/- 1EV, the f-stop will stay constant and the camera will use the shutter speed for the exposure (EV) change.

Triplets Loc: Reading, MA

Thanks everyone. Is there a "correct" way to do bracketing or is it personal preference?

Lucian Loc: From Wales, living in Ohio

The best way to do bracketing for HDR is to shoot the correctly exposed scene, per your camera settings, then open up 2 stops and do another shot and I'm talking shutter speed here, NEVER adjust aperture for HDR, and then reduce down by 2 stops, again via the shutter speed.

You get virtually the same effect with three shots of differing exposure done this way as you would with five different or seven different exposure settings, it just saves you time to use three.

In a nut shell as an example, let's say your correct exposure was 500th at f8 for the scene in quesion and we'll say your shutter markings are, for example, 125th / 250th / 500th / 800th / 1000th / 1250th, your first and correct exposure is as noted, 1/500th at f8. Your next exposure will be 1/125th at f8 and your final exposure will be 1/1000th at f8.

Now you can go high first and low second of course, this does not matter, just be sure you have the exposure cporrect, then move 2 stops each side of correct to achieve the effect you may want. And by 2 stops that should be 2 shutter stops, never aperture stops, to do HDR.

I would suggest getting the correct exposure how ever you are most comfortable, so if this means using it in A-priority or S-priority or in P-mode then do it that way. I would not suggest ever using the Auto setting which is generally the green icon on your shutter dial, P is much better of a choice.

Once you have the correct exposure captured, take a look at what the camera said those setting were and then turn your camera to the manual mode. Set those same settings your camera said were correct in manual, for shutter speed and aperture setting and now you have your start point to work from. Once set as the camera said, you now ONLY adjust the shutter in manual setting and turn it 2 clicks to the left, take a shot, then move it 2 clicks to the right to get back where you started from and then move it 2 more clicks to the right and then take another shot.

You now have a correctly exposed image according to the camera (assuming you were happy with that exposure as your mid point), and you have your two bracketed exposures, one each side of your mid point exposure, at 2 stops each way (over and under exposed). I can't make it clearer than that!

Triplets Loc: Reading, MA

Thanks Lucian...that was very clear. Just what I was looking for.