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Posts for: AndyCampbell
Jan 9, 2013 18:51:18   #
thanks for the welcome...
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Jan 9, 2013 07:54:38   #
GHK wrote:
mike420 wrote:
I am using a laptop to to do post work on photos and when they are printed they do not look like what was on my screen. What can i do to get the two to match. The printer i am using is not the best but funds are limited at this time. any help will be appreciated.


There are three main points.
1. You monitor should be PROPERLY calibrated.
2. You need to have a print profile to suit your printer, paper, ink combination. If you use more than one combination, you need a separate profile for each.
3. The image file for correct screen viewing will give you a print which looks darker than the screen view. Before sending an image to the printer, I always add a Curves Layer, change the Blend Mode to Luminosity, and then move the bottom left point of the curve up to input 0, output 15. My print then closely resembles the on screen image.

GHK
quote=mike420 I am using a laptop to to do post w... (show quote)


GHK has posted a great reply with some really helpful advice, appriciated.
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Jan 7, 2013 20:38:16   #
cockney greg wrote:
Thanks Andy you're a pretty fast mover.


Yea sitting in Shanghai with ps open helps, actually I really like the original so maybe just a contrast adjustment...


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Jan 7, 2013 20:19:26   #
Sorry to hear about your loss, I personally would not try and make it look new...
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Jan 7, 2013 10:20:32   #
nitejdp53 wrote:
Its not the camera it the photographer. People have gotten caught up in the mine is bigger and better then yours. Better to spend the money on photography education.


Nope people are replying to a question, you are selling education... no link?
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Jan 7, 2013 09:22:08   #
BboH wrote:
AndyCampbell wrote:
BboH wrote:
Have a D800 it has several "Image Area" settings:
Setting Image Area Crop Factor
FX................36x24 1.0x
1.2X..............30x20 1.2x
DX................24x16 1.5x
5:4...............30x24

Have only played with the FX and DX settings.
FX - noticibly wider FOV than DX
DX - noticibly larger image than FX
However, in Darrell Young's "Mastering the NIKON" on page 91 he has images of an object at each setting showing the progressively smaller FOV and larger image as the settings change from FX to 5:4.

So, with the D800, you get the "best of both worlds".
Have a D800 it has several "Image Area" ... (show quote)


And only need to replace all your lenses
quote=BboH Have a D800 it has several "Image... (show quote)


No - you don't "...need..." to replace any lenses. the D800 will deal with both types nicely.
Before the 800, I ahd the D3 and D300. The D800 is a tad more than the D300 and a LOT less than the D3 as far as size and weight are concerned.
quote=AndyCampbell quote=BboH Have a D800 it has... (show quote)


The distance from a canon lens to sensor is 44mm and Nikon 46.5mm, so a Canon lens mounted on a Nikon camera simply can't get close enough to the sensor to focus properly so I stand to be corrected and I am using figures from a previous posting but these two brands have never made their lenses fully compatible and for Nikon to do so now would mean giving up on lens sales which I very much doubt... again I could be wrong so would like to see some figures to the contrary
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Jan 7, 2013 08:40:25   #
Sorry the weight difference between the 7D and 5D mk iii is 4oz, if you carry glass it weighs much more so this is not a decision maker.
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Jan 7, 2013 07:46:54   #
BboH wrote:
Have a D800 it has several "Image Area" settings:
Setting Image Area Crop Factor
FX................36x24 1.0x
1.2X..............30x20 1.2x
DX................24x16 1.5x
5:4...............30x24

Have only played with the FX and DX settings.
FX - noticibly wider FOV than DX
DX - noticibly larger image than FX
However, in Darrell Young's "Mastering the NIKON" on page 91 he has images of an object at each setting showing the progressively smaller FOV and larger image as the settings change from FX to 5:4.

So, with the D800, you get the "best of both worlds".
Have a D800 it has several "Image Area" ... (show quote)


And only need to replace all your lenses
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Jan 7, 2013 07:32:59   #
OK, if you are happy with what you are shooting with the 40D composition wise then the 7D would be a great upgrade and has a much faster frame rate.

The main advantage to you with a full frame is the overall image quality, I have a 5d mk iii and a 7D. The crop factor in genaral is just that, it crops the picture in the view finder so what you see is what you get (7D is a 100% view finder).Your money is in the glass and you have some nice lenses for both the 7D or 5D so it's down to budget and you can get some great deals on the 5D mkii now which is a great body.

In any case you won't be spoiled by looking through a full frame view finder so go to a local shop or ask a friend and twist on a lens to see how it feels... if it feels good and it's in budget then you have an answer, as long as your happy it's the right one.
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Jan 3, 2013 23:13:59   #
Just though I would say hi, working in Shanghai for the last 7 years... mainly commercial and sports but a few odds and ends from event through fashion.

Seems like sitting in a nice chilled room with a warm fire and single malt.... looking forward to the conversation.
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Jan 3, 2013 06:39:17   #
Was always a buy new man... I have the first gen and it's an awesome lens.

Recently I needed to shoot a sports event that really needed 300mm and hooked into a used 300mm 2.8L (no IS) it's amazing, in pristine condition (I reckon it was bought, found to be to heavy and left in a loft), I checked the date code (www.digitalpicture.com) as someone else suggested and the lens was made in 1988... great price great glass and great shots, the risk of course is it breaks, the job more than paid for the lens so as was mentioned you pay your money and take your chance.

The 70-200mm 1st gen is built to last if it's been looked after then it's worth a punt.
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Dec 20, 2012 19:22:36   #
the mirror would hit the back of the lens... if you could get it mounted.
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