Your problem is caused by diffraction by using your lens stopped down to f22. try using f8

Hi jerry

Scott Kelby writes great books for learning photoshop. They are not technical, and very easy to read, and tell you just what you need to know to accomplish the different effects in photoshop to improve your images without getting bogged down in gobbledegook. They are available on Amazon.

In ACR click on the two small triangles in the top corners of the histogram panel, and any burnt out highlights will show up in your image as "red" Use the recovery slider moving it to the right, and you will see the red areas reduce and eventually go. At this stage you have brought the data back into the burnt out highlights without affecting the tonal range in the rest of the image. However, if there is no data in the burnt out highlights, the only answer is to clone over the area using the clone tool or the patch tool.
Hope this helps

I shoot in raw, trying to get everything right in the camera, and do some adjustments in ACR such as dealing with the highlights and shadows,noise, clarity, and graduated ND filter.
In the main editing space of CS I check the levels, when moving the sliders hold down the alt key and this will show when the image is starting to clip. Colour correct, and sharpen using the lab colour Technique or high pass filter techniqueand crop for effect Hope this helps

In a jpeg sharpening, white balance etc are processed in camera in a split second. The only advantage is that its a universal file format.
The big advantage of shooting raw is that the file contains a lot more unprocessed raw data in the file which gives you complete control in Adobe camera raw over sharpening, dealing with blocked shadows and burnt out highlights, white balance and colour correction etc. It gives you an all together better quality image. The only down side is that all cameras have a different raw file format. I hope this helps

I would switch the in camera sharpening off, and sharpen in your editing software, where you will have much more control.
Also if you desaturate your image, then sharpen, you are sharpening detail only, then bring the colour back, this reduces the chance of getting halos and noise in the image

I would switch the in camera sharpening off, and sharpen in your editing software, where you will have much more control.
Also if you desaturate your image, then sharpen, you are sharpening detail only, then bring the colour back, this reduces the chance of getting halos and noise in the image.
When you view a sharpened image on your monitor it always looks sharper than it will appear on the print, so sharpen it until it starts to look slightly over sharpened on the monitor, and it will be ok on the print. I hope this helps

If you go into the sharpening tab in the photoshop raw file converter, you can remove the noise very effectively by using the luminosity slider without affecting the sharpness. If the noise has coloured speckles in it, these can be removed by using the colour slider.

Captjimmy - you mention an important point here sRGB

If you shoot in AbobeRGB, most UK labs use sRGB, and you will get flat looking prints, lacking impact and colour.

Calibration of your monitor is important, but another thing to consider is that when you view an image on a monitor, you are
looking at the image in transmitted light, when you look at a print you view it by reflected light, so turn down the monitor brightness.
I hope this helps