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Jul 29, 2013 01:59:36   #
I'm anxious to get moving on this but have been in bed the last while with little energy. Hate when that happens. Was surprised to see so many more responses to this thread when I got back on. Thank you all for so much to think about. Sounds like I'm going to have to visit a few stores and see what is out there before proceeding. Might be a silly project to some, but the challenge to hopefully get something close to what I imagined is still there. Tomorrow is Monday, I'll start checking a few stores then.
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Jul 25, 2013 09:28:11   #
jimbrown3 wrote:
Ikelite has housings for underwater flash. I used to use them a lot plus their camera housing when SCUBA diving. A little pricey for casual use. But consider it "insurance".


If you have money, someone somewhere can smell it. Thank you for the info Jim.
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Jul 25, 2013 09:26:49   #
Sealed unit and long cord, just might work. Will have to look as it sounds like it could be used for a number of other things too. Going to start simple, then decide just how much I'm going to invest in time and energy.

DugE wrote:
I too have had a little more training than most on the subject of electronics.. Ie an associates degree as a technician..... But that being the least of it even flash lights have been enhanced by LED technology in the last YEAR, as far as pool lights they have a low price sealed like with a cord up that can be plugged in out side of the pool, next option would be to build a waterproof plexiglass box. Place a flash with remote triggering or light with battery power Pack and wellah your set
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Jul 24, 2013 22:36:27   #
DugE wrote:
did you know that a pool store has sealed color lights for use in water?


Yes, and the ones I'm aware of need connecting to power, for any kind of output. Thank you for including it here as an option. And those require ground fault circuit protection to be safer. High voltage low current, or lower voltage high current, its still safer and cheaper to go in the direction being discussed I think. Unless there are a few more options in that pool line added in the last few years. High output led light is certainly becoming more and more prevalent. I'm not aware of every product out there, and while I've had more specialized training than many, there is so much I don't know. Thank you for the idea to check out, it will be interesting just to find out. Oh, and I'm retired and don't work for anyone any more, but don't tell my wife I said that.
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Jul 24, 2013 19:37:54   #
A very good idea if it comes down to needing a higher light output.
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Jul 24, 2013 12:57:59   #
I appreciate your reply JR, both the for the reminder about the high voltage of flash, and the the idea of using a well sealed food storage container. Had no idea it could be used so deep. I may find some of those smaller 160 led panels you linked too for the advantage of fitting into a smaller area. I don't think I'm going to have to submerge any of my equipment directly in liquid for what I'm planning to do, but I still want them protected from splash or spills.

I've heard that some photographers also use vacuum sealed bags to protect equipment from dust or moisture when traveling to areas that need it. This was only for lenses and bodies, but could apply to anything, then resealed when done the job with a heat sealer. Guess it all depends what one needs to do as to what is more applicable for the task. Thought that since we are on this topic, that one was worth passing on too. Interesting how photography is often about problem solving.
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Jul 24, 2013 11:01:40   #
Yes, I'm aware of that JR, being an electrician and electronics buff. Which is why it's especially important to seal those devices from any water. But no matter what there is always a risk factor and I hear you. I included flash in this scenario for the feedback of just this kind of thing. When we take chances to get our pictures, we need to know the possibilities of what can go wrong too. I've never done underwater or flash in the proximity of it but have read of photographers who have. They also found out the hard way, because they lost quite a few flashes in their attempts to pull it off.

But I think they found some clear waterproof bags in the end and double bagged it. My preference is the continuous led panel for the project I have in mind. Bubbling dry ice in a clear bowl simulating a caldron of steaming foam. With the clear bowl I can easily place any light under it but still sealed from water. Or small battery colored led inside a small jar or baggie inside the liquid.

Anyway, I'm thinking out loud and trying to plan what I have in my head, and sharing with Hedgehogs and asking for feedback. I know there are waterproof clear bags for photography use, but I haven't found them yet, because at the time I read about someone needing them, I never planned to do anything similar. Now I've gotten older, bolder, and maybe a bit too bored with the norm as to be crazier. But I'm not going to be stupid, if I can help it. Maybe its too late. I'm open to suggestions, ideas, and the hard learned follies others may have tried.
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Jul 24, 2013 08:54:41   #
Have a 312 led light panel, and a 580exii flash I'd like to submerge in shallow water/bowl, a bit big for the condom I'd say, but not something I would have thought about. A small flashlight maybe.
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Jul 24, 2013 08:45:44   #
Yup, you read that right. I've been looking for something to put my flash and/or Led light panels in water for some experimenting with getting light in unusual places. Thought I had read that there were some water proof plastic bags you could get for just such a thing, even putting a camera in one for a short period. Am I bonkers, or just crazy? Did the search here to find anything similar but nothing close to what I remember.
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Jul 16, 2013 08:20:47   #
I've tried to always shoot at iso 100 but the more I do, the less practical I find it. Which meant I shot manual iso. As I started to raise that because of low light, it became easier to forget to change back. I realize if the iso is too high in bright light it will blow out, just not sure why when I shoot Aperture priority most of the time, and manual with lights and flash. Wasn't aware the iso could be capped, that must be a setting in menu's somewhere. I now own a 5Diii and can't use my other cameras because there is so much difference in picture quality and camera response, it feels like a step down.


CHG_CANON wrote:
PhotoStar - I see you list a 7D and a 40D. Your 7D as well as most new / current models from Nikon and Canon have auto ISO where the ISO is varied automatically by the camera. The older models did not have this feature. You can still manually select a specific ISO value on all cameras as well as 'cap' the ISO at a maximum value for the cameras with the auto ISO feature. I cap my ISO at 3200 on my 7D as the low light pictures are still great but the noise gets obvious at that ISO setting. And yep ... when it can be manually set, we all tend to forget to change / update from the last setting to the next ....
PhotoStar - I see you list a 7D and a 40D. Your 7D... (show quote)
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Jul 16, 2013 04:32:58   #
I've done this having the iso too high. But never really understood why, if ISO is one element of exposure why the camera didn't adjust the shutter and aperture to compensate and create a proper exposure. Anyone have a good understanding of why that might be?
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Jul 9, 2013 22:07:36   #
I use both Lightroom and PSE and tend to work with raw files more than jpeg. With raw there is more room for recovery. I find myself using exposure compensation more and more, and while I usually shoot aperture priority, I'm switching to shutter priority when I find low light and any picture there could be movement in. Guess that is an indication that I'm shooting less static shots and trying to get a better hold on much more difficult shooting and lighting scenarios. A challenge for sure.


oldtool2 wrote:
NOTE: These are not good photos, I just grabbed them for examples.

What program do you use for your PP? I the photo below there are six or more areas where the highlights are being clipped, they are being sown in red on the photo. If you are using LR or PSE go down to the sliders, hold the alt key down and move the highlight slider until the red is gone. You have now removed the areas that were being clipped. You will also notice that on the left arrow it is showing some clipping on the blue color. Move the black slider to the right till that arrow turns black, at this time the top of the blue color will become completely back into the histogram.

There are two types of clipping and both can be corrected using this method, holding the alt key down and watching the photo and the histogram. It is a matter of learning your program and watching what happens when you move your sliders.

Jim D
NOTE: These are not good photos, I just grabbed th... (show quote)
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Jul 8, 2013 20:14:57   #
mborn wrote:
That is not clipping, clipping means when the histogram touches either the right or left side. The height in the rest of the histogram just means the amount of color


Guess that is where I've been making a wrong assumption then, I've thought that the top was clipping as well.
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Jul 8, 2013 07:58:31   #
We all know about what clipping in the far left and right part of the histogram is. And usually when I get clipping in the highlights section, I stop down and under expose the image by a stop or more. Recently I got clipping in the mid section, but stopping down only moved it to the left and it was still cut off at the top. This made me feel like I really didn't know what was happening and that I may have had a false understanding of the whole thing. Can anybody shed light on how to reduce that kind of clipping? In this case I believe the content of that part of the graph was sky. Blue sky.
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Jun 16, 2013 05:15:41   #
That would drive me nuts. I have the lens and love it the more I use it. But I have a battery grip and even if I didn't have a big lens on it, I appreciate having the extra real estate to hang on to. Definitely don't need to drop the camera or any lens and I appreciate not having to worry about the battery dying even after a long day.
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