As a USN veteran, son of a USN Vet, father of a USN Vet, firefighter and WTC worker - my respect and honor for our flag is very high. I really appreciate seeing posts like this! I'm working on a "Flags of the World Tade Center" collecting all the flags I have photographed over ten+ years at WTC. Not sure if it'll be a collage, composite triptych or what format, but there's a lot of flags onsite. But it will be the proudest photo/print of my life.
>> "Myrtle Beach" FYI - whenever I get a shot like that I flip it horizontal so that the star field is upper left per protocol. Not complaining, just a tip.
Thnx all - regardless of composition, exposure etc - every proud photo is an honor to our country, veterans, citizens.
Whatever 'program' you use for online storage make certain it stores your full size files. Quite a few cut file size down to their limit, though others allow full size file storage.
I have been very happy with smugmug for several years, $58 a year, unlimited storage, stored in three separate locations for safety.
Shutter curtain is getting hung up as it travels, overexposing that top section by leaving it open longer.
Canon repair.
Taking the time and effort to perfect every shot is a great goal, but all too often a shot must be 'rushed' to capture that moment in time.
When you have the chance, take the time for 100% effectiveness. Spray and pray is very ineffective.
Maybe it's because my eyes are do bad (20/500) but can't imagine shooting without spectacles. And have never had a problem shooting with.
As Hiskid .58 stated, the diopter always moves on me too, but I've learned to check it on occasion (just not as often as I ought to)
Fujica ST 701 SLR in 1972. I still have a collection of Canon A1 AE1's, my last film camera was Canon EOS Elan II. As a fire dep't photographer I found digital to be the perfect medium and have never regretted the switch, though I do regret some of early low res pics ; )
I changed to L lenses not for quality but for durability. Now that I'm in L heaven I appreciate the wider range of settings that give me a sharp shot, less notable defects.
Image Quality exists in many EF or EF-S lenses, but as stated above, in a limited f-stop range
I use ACD pro photo 3 for sorting and most editing and it has a clone tool for removing errant leaves or hair. But missed the diversity of photoshop. The cost of p'shop is prohibitive, but I've found that PS Elements gives me all the versatility of previous versions of p'shop for a mere $125! Layers being the most valuable major editing tool.
Oh, yes, study n research before u spend. But pretty much any lighting will do -,it's the modifiers such as softbox that make it work.
Let me know how it goes
Nope. Leading - lines. Leading to subject, not splitting the photo. Horizon, or waterline can serve the purpose but it didn't in duck pic.
If u shot along waterline towards ducks on waters edge - yes...
Better for that shot? IMHO - lower point of view - horse eye level. Crop left of pic, as noted above. Focus point on riders face, slightly slower shut speed for a more action shot, showing a lil more movement.
But after action report aka hindsight is too easy.
It's a great shot, crop a copy, crop several copies. Remember - the shot you have is valuable, not the shots you coulda, shoulda, woulda.
As for the critics - well, we didn't catch any that day... ; )
I primarily use Av - aperture priority so I can control the depth of field. Secondarily I use M - Manual.
Sometimes the speed of the action/subject cause me to flip into the Auto modes of my 30D or 40D. They are fairly trustworthy, though not for al shots. When I reset the camera after a shot/shoot it goes into ISO200, f8.0 and 1/125s, Ev minus .75, flash minus 1.0. Raw and max jpg. That is 'zero setting' or normal base point for me.
Practice & learn to anticipate - one can not shoot for this moment right now. But you can shoot the next 1/125th of a second, and the next.
Be proud of the shot you captured, no one knows about the 999 that didn't quite make it, except other photographers ; )
Like everyone else responding, I have my personal preferences. The only Right settings are those that are right for you. Practice, experiment, study, research, practice, practice.
wow, no responses?
Soft lighting - soft box, indirect, bounced.
There are many ways to achieve the same effect, but soft shadows - low key is the process
Primarily a wedding photog, but quite a wealth of info. I went head and bought his book and was very pleased with it. And I'm very critical:
http://neilvn.com/tangents/http://neilvn.com/tangents/2010/01/19/lighting-boudoir-photography/http://www.better-boudoir-photography.com/Good reading on those three. I've only done a few sessions and they were personaL favors. And I was honest, gave' client' the selections A selections and the B, deleted the rest as promised.
It is a fun though trying type of photography. Sometimes, no amount of skill in photography or in editing can fix things as the client sees it.
Best wishes!
I've been shooting for many years (many decades - eek) and I enjoy forums like this for a fresh perspective, new angles on old techniques - from amateur and old pro alike.
Leading lines are something I've always seen as opportunistic - if they're there, I'll use them. Now, I'll look for them, compose with intent. Not every shot, but a feature now added to the forefront of my cluttered brain.