Sometimes the conditions don't allow for freezing motion. There are many shots at a baseball game that do not require freezing motion. Focus on those shots under the lights and wait for a sunny day to attempt to freeze motion. I find it much easier to tell the story of a baseball game w/out freezing action than sports like basketball and baseball.

I'm happy to see that people here took a stance against ignorance and bigotray.

Try Kelby Training. Cost a little bit more than a book but has great and easy to follow video courses. I tried book and gave up but find these courses much better. Lynda.com is just as good but Kelby caters to photographers and has courses on all aspects of photography

Have been doing small jobs for awhile and getting inquires for more involved jobs. I saw one of you post a formula that would help determine how to price a job. Any help would be great. Right know I include per hour shoot time fee, material ( if needed), product prices (post processing cost added here that customer does not see), lic. Fee depending on job, travel expense.
Thanks

Fun is where it's at with kids. I teach 6-13 year olds and if they are having fun taking pictures of things they enjoy they tend to stay at it longer. Then find the chances to sneak in the tech. stuff. They learn composition after the fact and from watching you and others. My son has learned more at a museum, watching football, and looking at my pictures then I could have taught him in the field. When in the field let them experiment and do what they enjoy. He'll start asking "How do you do that? soon enough.

Thanks, This is by far the hardest type of images I've tried to make. It's a lot of fun.

Been shooting some basketball for the first time. I use a canon 7d and for these shots a 85 1.8. I shot manual either 1.8 or 2.0 and either a 400th or 500th and I set a custom WB. My iso is set to auto until I can figure things out. It has been between 1600 and 3200. The camera is set to a single center focus point and AI servo. For some reason iso dropped in the second 1/2 for a few images.
I usually shot landscape or portraits at very low iso and higher f stops. My images are are much sharper.

I have two questions.
Can you see anything that I am doing that makes these images seem soft or based upon my equipment and light is this the best I can expect? I know I still need a lot of practice.

Does anyone have a good standard workflow for noise removal? I open in camera raw and apply noise reduction and sharpening before I touch anything more. I don't do much editing, if any, with these shots.

The first images below are at a 400th.

Thanks, I like #1

This person was seeking help on how to convert her files and make some improvements and it does take time to learn the tools. The jobs isn't done when the file is open and I often do not convert to jpg. Also, there are some adjustments that can't be made the same way with a jpg.. WB can be adjusted to camera presets with a raw file and not a jpg for instance. If you are going to just open a raw file and save it out as a jpg you would be better off shooting jpg because almost all raw files need at least some sharpening. Sometimes people here confuse new users with over techie answers. I believe we are here to help each other at our current level not to try and spill all our knowledge on a page. Almost everything takes time to perfect. That's the fun in photography and editing. There is always something to learn but you don't have to know it all.

Do you know the focal length these were taken at. A friend with a 70-200 claims most of his shots are around 90mm and the second most come from around 160. Just wondering

Raw conversion takes time to learn but once you have it things go quickly. If you LR find a good class and you'll be creating beautiful images you never thought possible. Scott Kelby has a 7 step post processing system that is quick and easy to understand. I would go to Kelby Training and take the video course if I were you. I easy to follow and covers everything you will need. You can also buy the book but I like the course on Kelby Training. You'll know all you need in aabout two days.

It depends upon where you shoot from but an 85 f1.8 seems to be working fine for me. It also does a great job with portriats and other low light situations. Also, they tend to be much cheaper than 70-200 f2.8 is.

Long time landscape/portrait/outdoor photog but a bit new to indoor sports. I want a 70-200 2.8 for some basketball and equestrian work I have to do. Is IS needed? I shoot at at least 1/250 min. and usually faster if possible. I find myself turning of IS a lot because most of my work is on a tripod anyways so I could use non IS lens for a lot of my other work if I want to leave the primes at home. Am I correct in assuming that IS may not be needed for sports when using faster shutter speeds or should I just fork over the cash? Shooting basketball with a 85mm now and would like a little extra reach. Any advice would be great. If you have other lens options please let me know. This is the most challenging work I have done yet and I really like it. Plenty of room to grow here.

How much for the set

Beautiful shot .... The only thing I would think about changing would be the spotlight on the edge of the cliff onthe right side. I wouldn't remove it. Just darken it a bit. My eye keeps going to that bright spot. This is on of those things I would have to do and compare to be sure.