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Posts for: PhotoMan1929
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Jun 27, 2016 21:19:31   #
GPS Phil wrote:
I have been posting this nine year project for a year or so, it is finally complete, flight tested and ready for Oshkosh. I missed the first flight as did most everyone else. I don't think they wanted an audience. I'm hoping to get some in flight shots soon, possibly air to air.

Phil


When I was a young man, I had a friend who owned an ST - nice plane - fun to fly, but I found it to be a bit squirrely on landing. We used to go up and fly close to the summer cumulus clouds - back when FAA was not so strict. BUT - where can you get parts for that little Menasco 95HP mill? Great job, great plane - THANKS.
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May 28, 2016 20:02:55   #
lowkick wrote:
I have attached a picture of my granddaughter taking pictures with her new camera. I just bought her a kid's camera that actually takes 1.3 megapixel pictures. She sees me and my daughter taking pictures all the time, and she's always pretending to take pictures, so I figured she should have a real camera. She is only 2 1/2 years old and the camera is rated for 3-8 years old, but she's getting the hang of it and is actually figuring out how to capture the image she's looking at. She's no artist yet, but who knows? She already loves being a "photographer".
I have attached a picture of my granddaughter taki... (show quote)


I have always been glad an older cousin gave me a camera when I was six years old. Photography has given me much pleasure and satisfaction for the last eighty-one years. You should be happy that your little granddaughter seems capable of handling the little "kid's camera." Children are not all alike - some are quite precocious and your granddaughter quite likely is blessed that way. In my time I have often been amazed at what children can do when properly advised and directed. Give your granddaughter all the encouragement you can. She - and you - will be the better for it. Good luck.
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Feb 13, 2016 03:44:02   #
joehel2 wrote:
My suggestion is save your money, you already have a camera and lens combo that you know and love, take the D7000. Buy ourself a nice comfortable sling strap and you won't be saying "I wish I had brought the D7000.


That is the very best advice anyone can give you. You know the camera and it is capable of better quality images than any small-sensor Point and Shoot. Going on a trip and trying to learn a new camera is asking for trouble.
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Jan 27, 2016 20:59:49   #
SharpShooter wrote:
Hogs, yes I've done it..., I've finally done something useful with myself and it had nothing to do with Brands OR Curmudgeons!!!
I have designed a Test Target that will allow us to compare both lenses and cameras with visual accuracy and no test numbers.


Thanks ;-)
SS


OK, so what is wrong with the old United States Air Force 1951 test target that has been in use for a long time? It gives much more definitive information about lens performance than a bunch of feathers, in both middle, corners, and diagonals of the lens image.
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Jan 26, 2016 11:20:36   #
RKL349 wrote:
:thumbup: Peterff's advice is well said. To do something well always involves a learning curve. I guess it all depends on the expectations of the OP.


Peterff gave the best advice so far. You will not get good results UNLESS you know basic optics and the fundamentals of photographic technique. Spend many thousands on equipment, it will all be wasted if you do not know how to use it effectively.
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Jan 9, 2016 20:05:50   #
scsdesphotography wrote:
Here is another way to think about it. If you are satisfied with letting something or someone controlling the final appearance of your image, then go with jpeg. Or, if you aspire to Ansel Adams or any of the other fine photographers who developed their own photo's and had total control over the final image, go with RAW. It's really about how much control do you want to have over your art.


You and I have very different views of JPEG. I can have considerable control over the final appearance of an image shot in JPEG. Admittedly, I cannot exercise the same depth of control as with Raw, but if I do not need it why bother? Why waste the time?
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Jan 9, 2016 19:55:20   #
waegwan wrote:
Here is sort of an example out of my camera, not all cameras act exactly the same, I had my camera set to save in RAW and JPG at the same time. Of course the JPG is showing whatever sharpness and color settings I had in the camera at that time and I honestly don't know what they were. Anyway, the left image is RAW and the right is JPG both are straight out of the camera. The left image appears sharper than the right.


Frankly, I do not see any significant difference except for a slight difference in color saturation - very slight.
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Dec 22, 2015 01:56:00   #
gmccaleb wrote:
I have 16 mo old twin girls that are a nightmare to try to photograph, but after I've spent all this money for equipment, I'm determined to learn how. I generally use a 24-70mm 2.8 and Nikon d7100. I have good natural lighting in my house and would prefer not to use a flash. I started out with a 4.0 f stop and boosted my ISO, my problem is...I can't seem to get my shutter speed high enough to freeze them. Setting suggestions, PLEASE???


In photography, LIGHT is the essential ingredient. Simply asking for "settings" is a waste of time. You very likely do not have enough light to successfully capture moving subjects - children. Bounce flash likely would be the answer. The truth is, you have purchased some expensive equipment, but do not have the basic knowledge to use it effectively.

As others have stated, you have a need for good depth of field and the ability to stop movement of the children. One need hampers the other. Try some experiments without the children present. Keep your shutter speed reasonably high, 1/250 sec. or above and see what you get. I have an area in my home near a north-facing window where I measure a light level of 64 foot candles. In order to get an exposure of 1/25 sec. at f/8, I would need to boost the ISO to 6400.

Frankly, I have never made successful photos of children while they were "jumping around." Good luck.
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Dec 15, 2015 12:23:34   #
rpavich wrote:
Here is the best suggestion you will get and it will save you from messing with anything like this in the future.

Buy yourself and inexpensive incident meter, use it to set your camera's manual exposure, and shoot.

Sekonic L308. Even a used one from Ebay.


You won't have anymore issues with exposure no matter what the conditions. Snow....ice, backlight, sunset....

Buy it and use it.

Yes, you can "guess" your way to an exposure (notice the suggestions so far? "2-2 1/2 stops" and "1- 1.5 stops"?)but you won't learn what you need to learn while doing that and you will be slower than just popping a reading and taking shots.

And yes, I will get "poo poo'd " because this is overkill and we don't need incident meters anymore because our camera's meters are so good...I know.

Another huge difference is this; if you use an incident meter, no matter what your camera dial tells you about the exposure, you can happily ignore it unless it suddenly gets cloudy or sunny or whatever; i.e. if the conditions change significantly.

shoot shoot shoot and never worry.
Here is the best suggestion you will get and it wi... (show quote)


AGREED - One thousand per cent.

:thumbup: :thumbup:
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Dec 12, 2015 03:55:30   #
Harvey wrote:
:
This coming Sat at 6:30 PM Our group (12 of us) will be shooting a lighted parade for the first time for most all of us, myself particularly.

I know this will get a few tips - first off I will be using 2 Canon Rebels
After looking up info in my Camera field guides for each specific camera these look like the simplest way for me to get my feet wet.

T3i w: 100-300 set on Av, f5.6, iso 800, flash off + tripod
XTi w: 18-55 flash off forces Auto settings + tripod

After the parade is over I plan on shooting what outdoor decorations that I deem of quality on the 20 mi drive home.

Any tips will be greatly appreciated.

Harvey
: br This coming Sat at 6:30 PM Our group (12 of u... (show quote)


It all depends upon the amount and quality of the light you will have. Photography is ALL about light.

It looks like you will have a street full of holiday lighting - many bright highlights and many dark shadow areas. If I were doing the shoot, I would plan on using Raw, exposing for the highlights and planning to do a lot of shadow enhancement in post-processing. If possible, run some tests before the parade event begins.

I also wonder why you intend to use such a long focal length lens. That limits you right from the beginning, especially as to maximum available aperture.
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Nov 28, 2015 23:31:30   #
SqBear wrote:
Thanks rjaywallace for the reply.
Don't know... i'll see if i can get some film and try it.

And I will check out Google and Wikipedia too!

Dave


If memory serves me, that camera took 122 film, larger than 120. Kodak was still making 122 up into the 1950s, but it has long since been discontinued.
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Nov 28, 2015 23:21:43   #
SqBear wrote:
Thanks for the reply and unique information about the F stop numbers. I did not know this.

Can the "bubble" be refilled by an expert? What should I do or ask before a re-fill, if it can be refilled?

Thanks again!
Dave


Thanks for the reply. You would probably do irreparable harm to the bubble level trying to refill it. The simple little viewfinder on that camera made it difficult to get it level, so the bubble device was needed.

As for the U.S. aperture numbers -
US 4 = F/8
US 8 = F/11
US 16 = F/16
US 32 = F/22
US 64 = F/32
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Nov 28, 2015 16:45:02   #
SoHillGuy wrote:
I have avoided updating to Win 10 from Win 7.
This morning on start up a large pop up in the center of the screen indicated Update to Win 10 or Cancel. I clicked on Cancel and it started updating. I then hit cancel again and assumed I was done with it. When I came back to the computer it was still running. On completion, it showed a list of errors.

Now I was curious why it showed errors, and decided to try to upgrade again, this time selecting Update windows. After another three hours, it showed some options that didn't download. So to heck with Win 10, I will not tie the computer up for another three hours to find the same or different problems with the upgrade to Win 10.

I am still running XP on one of my computers which I prefer over any of the newer Operating systems.
I have avoided updating to Win 10 from Win 7. br T... (show quote)


Like you, I wish I still had XP. It was smooth operating and trouble free. I now have Windows 8.1 and find it to be a nuisance. I am afraid to try going to 10 despite frequent urging from Microsoft.
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Nov 27, 2015 21:42:53   #
colo43 wrote:
This was taken back in 2008 and i was told at the time, i did not have to register.


As Mogul stated, you were told WRONG. Nevertheless, registered or not, are you ready and able to spend the huge sums of money to pursue an action for infringement in Federal Court? You cannot do so on your own. You would need an attorney skilled in copyright law, and they do not come cheap.

I have often stated that copyright is for the big boys, Stephen Spielberg, Time-Warner, Houghton-Mifflin publishers, etc. The little guy is out of the game. Anything you publish to the web is a gift to the world.
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Nov 27, 2015 13:34:47   #
SqBear wrote:
Bought this at a grage sale eariler in the year....
Really, what i am asking is is "rare" and is it valuable?

The shutter seems to be operating OK, the slide is OK, just a bit sticky perhaps, but works. The bellows appear to be in good shape, no leaks or holes or tears.



The lens is a Rapid Rectilinear, a fairly simple four element doublet popular in the late 1800s before anastigmats came into general use. Do not be fooled by the aperture numbers - those shown are U.S. numbers not F numbers. US4 is equivalent to F/8. US 8 is equivalent to F/11 and so on. Most likely, the alcohol has evaporated out of the bubble level. What you thought was a bubble is an aiming mark which is part of the enclosure. The bubble itself is long gone. The single shutter speed is about 1/25 second, IF it still works properly. I have several old shutters of similar type in my collection and they do not operate well.
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