Nice of you to say that but it's pretty clear that a contingent of folks think that computer advice belongs in a different kind of forum. Think I've overstayed my welcome here. While I'll miss the photography discussion there are other places where there is less animosity in regard to discussing computer issues in the context of photography and vice versa. I don't see much of a distinction and therein lies the problem.

Be well! Signing off.

In general once you have invoke the upgrade, the installer runs the compatibility scan. If you are going to have an issue the OS messages about any incompatible devices, hardware of applications. Leave the system on for 24 hours and re try the install then. Hopefully, you'll succeed the second time around.

One other thing to watch is make sure you have screen mirroring turned off in the BIOS for the upgrade. I've had a couple AMI and Award BIOS upgrades where the BIOS defaulted to the external monitor which will also give you a blank screen at start up and you won't know that unless you toggle the mirror key or plug in a second monitor.

The easiest way to do it is to click on the Get Windows 10 app icon in your taskbar to open its window. Click on the 3-lined hamburger menu in the top left corner. A black panel will slide out from the left side.

Under Getting the upgrade, click on Check your PC link. The scan hardly takes any time and you will be informed if any apps or devices are not fully compatible with Windows 10. The scan is the compatibility tool. Make sure you flash the BIOS to A11 first.

Per your request I did process an unsubscribe request. Sorry to have caused any discord. Was truly trying to be helpful to folks who had Mac and Windows computer and software issues. You are likely correct, such issues have little to do with photography.

Take a deep breath and note that I did not specifically call you "lazy".

Computers are a huge part of photography. There is an endless stream of threads here on UHH about computer hardware & software issues. I try to be helpful. You clearly don't think so but I have a thick skin and if you want to call me a "pompous ass" feel free. Says as much about me as you, I guess.

Dell has specifically said that the 5110 will not be made compatible with Windows 10. However, many, including myself have successfully installed Windows 10 on Inspiron 5110's.

You have to reflash the BIOS to firmware version A11 and then re run the Windows 10 compatibility tool (and then reboot) so that the compatibility tool writes an appropriate line to the part of the registry that defines the Hardware Abstraction Layer (HAL). If you fail to re run the compatibility tool you'll see a blank screen after the install.

You know file associations are ridiculously simple to change in any version of Windows. Don't blame the OS. Spend 15 seconds finding the solution:
http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/change-default-programs#1TC=windows-7

Really folks, it amazes me how quickly folks diss this or that version of every OS (Windows, Mac, etc.) for what are essentially user errors or frankly just laziness when it comes to dealing with the basics of set up for any given OS.

While AI is developing at a fast pace, no OS can read your mind or your intentions.

The best practices way to redirect or personalize system documents and photos folders:

http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/redirect-folder-new-location#1TC=windows-7

Well you have until 2020 to move on to the next OS. MS will continue to provide security updates to Windows 7 retail versions until 2020.

So, did you in fact boot to the command prompt and then run a partition utility in the DOS mode?

My approach to this issue and I've dealt with it dozens of times is to make a Hiren's Boot DVD.
http://getintopc.com/softwares/operating-systems/hirens-boot-dvd-15-2-restored-edition-free-download/

Once you've made the boot DVD then boot your computer to the BIOS menu. Change the boot order to boot from CD/DVD.

Insert the Hiren's Boot DVD and boot from the DVD.

Once booted open the Partition utility which is in the Disk Management menu.

Eliminate the hidden partition and then reclaim that space to the primary physical partition.

Reboot to the BIOS menu. Reset the boot order to auto or list the "C" drive as the first in the boot order.

Lenovo, Toshiba and others make it near to impossible to remove hidden partitions from the OS.

I've never been unable to delete and reclaim partitions using DOS utilities. Unless your 10 pages of MS Helpdesk attempts took you to the DOS mode to deal with this then they neglected to use the most effective strategy.

So, why not just merge the unnamed partition into the existing primary physical partition and then delete the backup folder?

Any number of free utilities you can use for merging partitions, e.g., GParted or EaseUS Partition Manager to name only a few.

EaseUs is quite easy to use and has a friendly and intuitive UI.

I'd suggest using the original back up program that created the blind partition to delete the backup that resides on the partition.
You might have to reinstall the backup utility that created the partition and backup folder. Some manufacturers are famous for such back up programs and install them on laptops and desktops in an effort to help protect you from failing to implement a back up solution. Typically the key to removing the backups is to reinstall the utility which then allows you to delete all backup copies. Once all backups are deleted then it is relatively easy to remove the back up storage folder and then the partition. You'll want to make sure that the backup background process associated with the backup utility is disabled in the startup program list (disable with msconfig.exe) and disable the process completely using the Windows services (application) console. Unless the process and application are disabled after you delete all extant copies of backups you won't be able to delete the blind partition. The blind partition and folders are meant to be difficult to remove.

If all else fails you can use Gparted in the DOS mode to delete the partition. The partition permissions will not be enabled in the DOS mode so deleting is an easier task.

The only version of Windows 10 that allows you to turn off all background data collection is the Enterprise version, which BTW is not free.

So, while I'm not overly concerned about system and Windows application background data collection; the concerns some folks bring forward are valid.

Look for the EU to challenge the wholesale data collection in court and well, the track record for EU courts against MS is quite good. Eventually MS may be forced to enable the background data collection switch in all versions of Windows 10. Don't hold your breath. If you love Windows 10 but hate the data collection buy and upgrade to Windows 10 enterprise.

Keep in mind that the Picasa application will not be updated after March 1st. Everyone will have to migrate their photos from Picasa storage to Google Photo storage which is only a few minute migration for most people.

The death knell is the Picasa Application is end of life. No improvements, no security updates, no compatibility updates. So you will have to implement another photo manager/editor in short order.

The question you should be asking about and exploring is: "what manager/editor should I be considering to replace the Picasa desktop application?"

Are you certain you're unzipping the downloaded file? If so, are you certain where the unzipped files are being extracted to?

Use a new memory card and format that card in your camera.

Remove the formatted card and place it in a card reader attached to your Mac.

Secondly, make sure there are no other bin files in the root directory of the "primary" memory card.

Copy the unzipped and extracted files to the root directory of the memory card. Make sure the "A" and "B" bin files reside in the actual root directory and not a folder.

Put the card back in your camera making sure that the card slot you're using for the upgrade is the "primary slot" My guess is you are trying to upgrade the firmware from the assigned secondary slot. So, before you try the upgrade make sure you know absolutely which slot you have assigned as the "primary" slot.

Depends on the virus. If it was/is a root kit virus of the self replicating variety it will survive the upgrade.

General rule of thumb is you need to disinfect and then do a destructive reformatting before performing a clean install.