Oh and it has the requisite reticle.

Update: I bought the F2 with the Oxberry back, a 55mm macro lens and a viewfinder that seemed appropriate. All for about $200, which is great - now I just need to figure out how to get that back functioning WITHOUT the controller. I wrote Oxberry just a while ago - we shall see if they turn up any tech specs. I tend to doubt it but it's worth a try. I figure if I cannot get an info, I will try a 12v DC power source and touch the neg lead to the "center' pin on the DIN plug, and the pos lead to each of the other pins - and hope that (a) it's the right voltage and (b) I find what combo makes the reg pins move in and out.

Right. The internet is not turning up much. I DID write the seller of another one of these for possible insights, and Oxberry still exists; I wrote them too - but I am not expecting much... http://oxberry.com/home.html

Well I managed to get that ebay Nikon F2 with the "Oxberry Pro-Copy F2" back for a little under $100. It arrived the other day and seems in nice shape. It needs a lens and finder; I am considering a 55mm macro lens and DW-2 6x eye level finder. Before I get those parts, I need to sort out my main hangup - I am beginning to think that the 5-pin plug is the only control for getting the pins in and out. Not manual like the Double M. The document at the archive.org link is a sales brochure, not a manual - and of course there's no discussion of the item I have here. I have been searching for more into controlling this thing to no avail so far. Oops.

I added comments in a couple of old forum threads, and asked the German seller of the other unit - wish me luck!
https://www.flickr.com/photos/photoplastic/3131781384

I just found what might be the only photo of the "control box" on the internet...this one is 240v - from Europe I suppose. Of course I don't need all that much control - I just need the pins to engage and disengage the film.

BTW it's disturbing when an internet search for an item that you need to understand results in SIX results!

I think I may have to get a 12 volt power source, and start poking at pairs of pins, to encourage the registration pins to move in and out. If I can figure out which pairs move them I can build a little box...

Oh man, now there's these...
https://www.shphoto.de/canon-f-1-oxberry-pro-copy-f2.html
https://www.ebay.com/itm/373999193613
Both are interesting but are both missing major parts. The one in Germany could be talked down... And I've no idea what that 5-pin DIN does.

Here's a possibile ortho film to replace Kodalith. https://www.ultrafineonline.com/ulorlifi35x2.html

There seems to be no shortage of Ektachrome. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=ektachrome+35mm

Making my own multi image content is a possibility. Being able to shoot a 4K monitor and not have it look obvious or awful would be a giant shortcut, avoiding needing an '80s art dept and Forox compound table.

When you say the focusing ring is "frozen", do you mean it's non-functional? This guy seems to think that a "tight" focusing ring is a good thing...

https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/105mm-f-2-8-micro-nikkor-stiff-focus.15380/#post-213595

I've been debating making an offer for yours. I am a bit hesitant because my intentions for using the double-M Nikon are as yet somewhat undefined, and my budget is minimal. Anyway, I figure that kodalith is a place to start. Originals out of a laser printer, then shot as many times as there are lines of text. Tape out or opaque out text to create a build, then gel as needed for color. Re-learn how to windfilm onto spools and process in a darkroom. Regarding color shots, and creating pans without a "real" rig, I am thinking of shooting a 4K monitor. Small ones (like 12") can be had. I can create pan elements in photoshop, then shoot them off the 4K screen. I have no idea how that would look, to be honest.

Well I got lucky. The ebay seller (Roberts Camera) agreed to cancel the order, even though it was in the process of getting packed up. After buying the back, my next steps were to buy an F3 and create a stand for it.

I am going to guess that the reason these Double-M backs (there are two at the moment) on ebay are there at all because - folks that used them for multi image back in the day eventually didn't need them any more, then swapped out the back for a "regular" one, and sold the Double-M back...and they eventually landed on ebay, sold by people that are possibly not aware that that backs must work in conjunction with a modified camera. Live and learn. I can only imagine that other uninformed buyers (like me, yesterday) had plans for these things that they learned the hard way that they could not implement. THANK YOU for sharing your experience with these.

OK now I am confused. I thought the whole purpose of the Double-M back was to align the film centered over the sprocket holes. If the camera itself was modified to do that, what was the purpose of the special back? To hold it in place for multiple exposures? I would imagine that any 35mm camera would "leave the film in place" in between exposures.

Uh oh. So then you are saying that I can't just install this back onto a stock F3HP and be good to go - the camera itself needs modification?

So then I should be looking ONLY for a F3HP to mount this to? I had read that the only difference between the F3HP and the F3 was the viewfinder? Yes indeed the pins are come right through the plate. By the way my first intention is to shoot kodalith (or whatever stands in for it these days) from 8.5x11 inch originals, so I will need nothing more than a macro 55mm lens, I think...

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I just took a small leap and bought a Double-M pin registered back. Now all I need is everything that goes around it. Can you please confirm for me that the only camera this back will mate with is a Nikon F3? Or are there other Nikon models that will do? As I will only use whatever camera I get for use with this back, it doesn't need to be "the greatest".

Thanks,
Steve

DO YOU STILL HAVE THAT 15 PROJECTOR SHOW? You need to see my garage, as it stands today. And also see my youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCdGRNxsrsI-efMFSjFDmzvg/videos.

Best,
Steve

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Speaking of E2 projectors... I only have E3's, which of course are "better" when it comes to changing a lamp, HOWEVER, I have learned that they are just a bit slower to advance a slide than the E2. I found this when I first ran the show "You Can't Stop a Dove", which is 9-on-1, and has a few sequences there the slides go by at 10 FPS. The show was programmed on E2s. On my E3s, those sequences stuttered terribly as the projectors couldn't keep up. I ended up having to reprogram two sequences, pulling out about 60 slides, to slow those sequences down to about 7 FPS. It runs fine and the sequences have the same "feeling" as original. Whew! That was the most fun I have had in a long time, sorting out the reprogramming.

BTW I figure you've seen that all my gear and shows are AVL-based. That's all I ever saw back in the day - AVL was the standard gear in all the NYC shops I freelanced for.