Wjones, here is a different take, by the way, I am just SE of you here in Texas. My friend and fellow camera club member wanted a Z8 to back up his Z9. I shoot D850 with my 7100 as a backup. He sold me his 850 for $200 more than the trade-in offer. All of my lenes except my kit 7100 lens are FX. Win\win.

Jimmy T, you are on target. I am near Dallas and Topaz management and I have been trying to arrange a time to meet for 2 months. The reality is they seem to wish to abandon the separate products and focus on all in one. There is a problem here. You cannot round trip. Once a file has been impacted, certain approaches to processing in LRC are gone (lens adjustment, As Shot is altered and more). Also I want results based on how I see the image. Example, you take an image that has a bright sun filled window that will be cropped out, I want to do the image after crop...list goes on and on.

Topaz needs to provide clear path as to what is to happen next. I am going to guess MS next windows operating system will be called "12"...just a guess.

First, this is a late March post and JimmyT's response is based on 2019 information on some products from Topaz that I do not believe are even available any more. Please note, this is not Jimmy T's fault but Topaz not providing a clear direction and path.

My take is Topaz AI wants to be run first as it addresses all issues (correctly or not) including areas that you want to crop out. I am not a fan of this so far. Also it poses additional problems in LRC. I like to edit and depending on noise and sharpen issues, I elect at the end to elect DeNoise or Sharpen...it is possible to use both. I also like to "round trip" from LRC to PS\Topaz and back and this is not possible in Topaz AI.

The value of Topaz is clear, I have yet to see an image in competition where the shooter did not use Topaz.

Hope this helps, Cliff

Used the same tripod as you did for the eclipse.

As others have pointed out, hook the tripod and (new) strap to the lens foot. Anytime there is a lens foot, the manufactoer is telling you something. Even when just walking around.

Ball head is weak, consider using a gimbal head...the eclipse was 64 degrees. Great for Milkyway.

Modidiy the Monfronto to use only arca swiss conections. Send me a private message and I will send you pictures. This important for other reasons as well.

The image of the strap appears as two straps. One traditional and I am not sure about the longgated one. Take these straps off and consider Black Rapid around the shoulders. On the end of the strap (regardless) change the connector to arca swiss. This will allow you quick access or release. You could even connect the strap to the camera body as a back up. Want a better plan? Use a L-Bracket on the camera body for conncect anywhere solution...also the steel of the L-Bracket can absorb a fall.

Shooting in wind, eclipse, moon or Milkway - use a counter weight. Here one that is free, cloth bag tied to center post filled with local rocks.

Hope this helps...it works for me.

OK, so there is a "take-away" here that has many applications beyond the eclipse. Leading up to the eclipse, practice your settings and shots. Practice full sun - practice high clouds. Actually, other than totality, you could simulate the entire 3 hours minus 4 minutes.

Despite practice, what caught me off guard was mid-level clouds. I had to adjust my reasoning that if you could not see the sun with solar glasses on, then take the filter off...and on...and off... I made constant adjustments between manual and aperture, fix versus auto ISO, speed, etc.

Love the images...truly a moment in time

1. You cannot look through solar glasses then any device for a lot reasons. Also you cannot hold your solar glasses over the lens.
2. Totality means 100%, at 1% filter must go back on the camera.
3. Use your smart phone to shoot around you...cool shadows and no filter needed.

Idea, go into the city and get what you need.

Bill, you are correct.

If the setting is 1000, then the desired result should be 250 500 1000 2000 4000. In manual it takes the shutter setting and drops it in a comparable manner. In aperture priority mode, it performs correctly.

Bill, I think you have what you need a full frame camera with a 2.8 zoom (24-105). I would not buy a 2.0 extender, but I do like my 1.4 better (may use it for the eclipse, but not the 2.0). In street photography, I shoot 24-120 and I am very happy. At the end of any year, my 24-70 2.8 is always the winner. Hope this helps,
Cliff

I have a bracketing issue with my D850. Simply put, when camera is instructed to bracket 5F 1.0 with following sequence -2, -1, 0, +1, +2 in manual mode with ISO locked down, aperture locked down and shutter priority set to 1000. The anticipated result should be 1/250, 500, 1000, 2000, 4000 and in that order (Bracketing Order is - +). Exposure Step Value =1.

What is happening is 1/1000 -2, 500 -1, 250 0, 125 +1, 60 +2. It is taking the opening value and bracketing downward from there. I have concerns here, but the camera is still following step value instruction (sequence -2, -1, 0, +1, +2) but the end product is linear in one direction.

Please note 5F 1.0 is the setting and not -3F.

Similar results for 3F 1.0 as well.

Now, switch to aperture priority mode with ISO locked down. The camera is setting shutter speed, and all works exactly as expected (sequence -2, -1, 0, +1, +2) and in the correct order (Bracketing Order is - +). I have two underexposed and two over exposed.

Unique to the camera? No, both D850s operate the same way.

So in manual mode with the desire to lock down aperture & ISO and set my opening shutter speed…how do I do it to achieve 2 under and 2 over?

Here in Texas, we have spent months in preparation for "The Great Texas Eclipse"...even the governor is on board and will allow the Eclipse to enter the US from Mexico. In light of our weather forecast, we are considering showing reruns of Matlock.

Remember, Totality will cross the US in under one hour, so stations to the NE will pick it up.

This is not true. Safe for camera but not for you.

Look up your filter on B&H and read the print at the end of the article. After a presentation in Dallas\Plano we did a deep dive into ND filters (yes, I use ND5). If you use DSLR, use live view other than total eclipse.

B&H, ND5 filter at random, "... Never use photographic neutral density filters for direct solar viewing, viewing the sun through an optic, or when using cameras with an optical viewfinder."

At this date, you are most likely toast unless a camera store is nearby. No, you cannot use 10x and I would not recommend stacking filers either for several reasons. Also, do not use a variable. If you want an ND filter, then find ND5 - 1000000 and let me suggest one that uses a magnet ring to snap on and off.

Caution - you cannot look through the lens on a DSLR camera at the sun with a ND filter and must use live view. If you have a mirrorless, you are fine.

Step 1 is missing - level the picture. Yes, this is a form of cropping. Caveat - never edit an image in camera (saw reference in other threads). No tripod, all kind of solutions but your camera most likely has on screen or through view finder a leveler.

Suggest using LRC and you up your game with Topaz products.

Let me make one adjustment to the Black Rapid - add a Arca Swiss connector to the end. This allows you the ability to quickly shoot and make the weight more comfortable. I have used two straps it to carry two D850s both with L-brackets. If carrying a long lens (D850+L backet+200-500) the weight is almost 10lbs, be sure to connect to the lens foot.