FB Tube isn't a rail so that metric doesn't apply. FB Tube rotates your focus ring same as your camera would with the newer top end cameras. You set a start focal point and a number of "steps" it should take to get to either infinity or max near focus (you choose which direction you want to go.) Each "step" is a shot.

It only works with auto focus lenses and you put the camera in manual mode. It doesn't work with all autofocus lenses. They have a list of lenses that have been verified. The list is short but appears to include the common lens used for macro. If a lens isn't on the list that doesn't mean it doesn't work with it, they just tested the common ones and look to the community to verify more.

I've used for handheld and on a test shot of a marigold processed with first attempt with Helicon Focus got a result that passed muster and delighted as long as you didn't pixel peep.

Understand it's a motorized extension ring, so your focal range will come in. Probably, wouldn't be useful on anything shorter than an 85.

That's a long list of poor thinking.

Most of the items are based on setting the standard for effectiveness at absolute perfection. Typical of those looking for an excuse to do or not do something.

V******tion is optional. The "Nuremberg" items are based on forced medical procedures.

It somehow wasn't that simple. I forget, exactly. I think it was that if I re-exported to mat opening plus 1/4" margin it required the next larger print size and a big jump in printing cost. I think that was due to the particular print machine's margin relative to the print stock.

Tommg-If looking to print to file, is it your intent to make physical prints, or is it for viewing on a screen? I'm an experienced LR newbie, and have typically used export instead of the Print Module. Do you know what file format you want to save to (JPG, PDF, TIFF--hoggers any others?)

My experience in printing for mounting in a frame that had fixed matt window when customer (my significant other) wanted the whole image to go the the matt without the matt cropping the print, was that it was a complete pain and required knowing the exact printer margins which was hard as it wasn't our printer. I doubt you need that degree of control though.

Reuss-Great topic. Such an "old" basic tool that is a real mind bender when only have the basics of polarization.

On the what you need to know to get it to work level, I was surprised no one mentioned lens rotation when focusing.

Sad to say, it's been too long since I've screwed on my circular polarizer. I remember it "solved" some of that issue relative to the linear. I recall the linear had a much more profound effect than the circular. I mostly remember how much light it consumed as I was typically using f4 and slower lenses then.

Those who have slippage issues are likely not using the under arm stabilizing strap. If you don't the strap can come off your shoulder when you bend forward.

I started with OpTech before they had a sling. I also have a Black Rapid Sling.

I use the OpTech when I need a neck strap for either camera or binos. That's mostly when I may need to share and can easily unsnap and hand off. I mostly use it for the binos. I don't like a neck strap, but it is more discrete, less nerdy than a sling or for the binos a bino harness, which I prefer. The OpTech bino strap criss crosses the back and holds the binos centered in front, and you can also unsnap to detach the binos without removing the strap. It is excellent when there is some clambering or maybe some jogging.

There are a variety of Black Rapid straps. I use the single sling with the under arm "stabilizing strap". I always have issues with shoulder bags sliding off my shoulder laterally down the arm. I've never that problem with the Black Rapid sling as the camera weight pulls it towards the neck. However, without the stabilizing strap, the should pad will rotate off the shoulder front to back opposite to the direction I bend. I always use the detachable stabilizing strap.

Yes it survives very well. I use it to put my Win7 User profiles on a non-system drive. Win7 can make a call to them on C:\ even though they are on a different drive. Let’s me do a restore of an old image backup of the system drive without losing data files in the User profile folders like My Documents or My Pictures.

Now the harder part is to remove it. It is basically transparent. It looks like you have two copies of the files, one on each drive, but if you delete on one it deletes in both as they are really only on the target drive. There is no “Link” to delete Like with “shortcut”. I made a Snip of the commands I used to make them so I can remove if needed. Look up how to delete or remove a “Link”.