That looks like a battery converter, but I can't tell for sure. I have some similar-looking devices that are for putting in inexpensive AA batteries, then using them in a device that requires expensive C or D cell batteries. Converters are inexpensive little plastic cases you can find online at ebay and Amazon.

Incidentally, if that's not what you've got there, keep "battery converters" in mind. You can save a bundle by using the much-cheaper (albeit a bit shorter-lived) AA batteries.

Very nice! A matter of preference, but I think a little less contrast (you can do it in post, of course) would help, and it might help bring out detail the darkened areas. Where did you take these fine shots?

Beautiful pictures, Swamp. And I agree, either manual or program auto with 1 or 2 stops of underexposure for most sunsets will bring out the best color and dynamic range.

Regarding lens flare, it's so common when shooting into the sun that I don't think it usually detracts at all, and sometimes it can enhance an image. Here's not a sunset, but a shot of a giant redwood in Yosemite on Mothers' Day with the sun peeking through the top of the tree. I like the streaking, star effect, but in this case I don't care for the reddish flare.

I seldom fill a card, but it's nice to know that I have the ability to record a lot of video if I want to. At HD, what is it, 30 minutes of video costs you 4GB? I'd rather have a bit of extra memory than run out, especially because I like to shoot video with my pics and I'll do more of that with my Olympus SZ-31MR that I just ordered. Included in that camera's virtual arsenal of features is the ability to record HD video and take HD photos simultaneously.

So, I guess it comes down to usage. As long as you have a quality, fast card and enough capacity to suit your needs, you're set.

I've seen a lot of pics in places like Antelope Canyon (is that where you're going?) turn out good, but the side walls will often come out a bit dark. Your D7000 has excellent dynamic range, so this might not be a factor, but if it is you can use your camera's exposure bracketing and post-process for some mild HDR work.

Just something to keep in mind, for what it's worth.

Toad,

There are many counterfeit cards out there, so be careful if you buy online. Having said that, you can save considerably when you buy online. SanDisk, Kensington, and especially no-name are frequently counterfeited, wherein some scumbag will change either the capacity or the class printed on the card. You might pay for a 32GB class 10 but get an 8GB class 2.

I like the Sony class 10 cards. I found 32GB class 10 Sonys for $20 (US) on an ebay daily special, and I still see them for about $22-24 from reputable ebay sellers and from Amazon sellers (I live in a tiny town distant from any city, so I buy everything online.)

Just saying, caveat emptor.

Photodog,

I'm not sure about the 5D, but with the 7D you lose so much -- picture quality, color depth, dynamic range, etc., compared with the a77, that it makes me wonder: can overpriced L glass compensate?

Thanks, greymule. The D600, with full-frame, has much better image quality and better dynamic range, but it's a bit more than I care to spend.

I've created a chart in Excel to keep track of features and benchmarks of a dozen or so cameras to help me decide on one. There are must-have requirements, such as weather sealing (necessary for a desert rat) and HDR or, like the 7D has, bracketed multi-exposure for post-pic HDR stitching. None has everything I want, of course, but the a77 is probably as close as I'll get.

Very nice, greymule, from desert-dwelling, Nevada Duane. The excellent dynamic range, which can be hard to get without tricks like HDR exposure or post-pic processing, is what really sets this off. Most shots like this would have a much darker foreground. How did you shoot it, and with what?

I've been reviewing DSLRs and HDR exposure in preparation of finally buying a DSLR. I've been relegated to a point & shoot since my film SLR became obsolete, so the only way I could come close to a shot like that has been with Photoshop, or under/overexposure choosing sky or foreground. Soon, however, I'll buy a DSLR -- as soon as I decide which one. (I'm leaning toward the Sony a65 or a77, both of which have excellent dynamic range AND HDR exposure.)

Again, with what and how did you shoot this fine pic?

Duane

Beautiful shot, R.G. I have some rainbows also, but I don't think they are on this computer - so I just uploaded the recent snapshot that came to mind.

It is, indeed, counter-intuitive. And, this also works for colorful sunrises or sunsets. Auto-exposure tends to wash out the beautiful pinks, oranges and purples we are trying to capture. Taking it down a stop or two makes a huge difference (in the absence of HDR, which is a different ballgame).

Shots of the moon also fall into this category. They will almost always be washed out - a white blob - at auto exposure.

As others have said, the shot needs to be underexposed. Have you ever shot a rainbow? Auto settings will usually wash out most of the color, and an iridescent cloud is no different.

Most compacts have easy settings to underexpose by f-stops. Even my cell phone, the Casio G'zOne Commando does this. I'll attach a similar snapshot I took with my phone recently, slightly underexposed (notice how dark the mountains are).