One builds a wooden support form under it. see attached photo of the block and brick structure that I built with some help from my son and wife. You should be able to see the form for the door arch in front of me about knee height.

Thanks
I have looked through the owners manual for the D5000 and never noticed that on page 159 is exposure delay setting. The mirror rises and 1 second later the shutter fires. The biggest problem with these modern cameras is that the have more features than I can remember.

FWITIS (for what it is worth) I down loaded a pdf of the manual and placed a short cut on my desktop. It is handy.
I think this link will get you a D90 manual
http://support.nikonusa.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/16087/~/user's-manual---d90---guide-to-digital-photography
tom

I have the same lack of being able to lock up the mirror with the d5000. I read somewhere that a long exposure of 3 or more seconds will have most of the photo being taken after the camera has settled down.
Thus the using the shutter delay release, a good tri-pod, slow lens, small aperture, and if required a nd filter will get you the long shutter time.

Tom

Thanks to all for the response. When I bought the filter I did not even consider it being not coated; I just thought that it was a bargin.
The last post that I had was about lack of sharpness in my photos.
It is time for an experiment. Photos with and with out the non coated filter. I think that I will wait for a sunny day. The colors out side are so drab right now. The snow is gone, the grass is brown and all color in the yard is muted.

Back when I was printing black and white (Kodak Panatomic X with an asa of 32) it was easy to make sure the grain of the negative was sharp; then I knew the lack of sharpness came from the man behind the camera.

Back in 1973 when I first started taking photography seriously i was reading Popular photography and other similar magazines. The common concensus was that keeping auv or skylight filter on your expensive camera lens was just good common practice to keep scratches off of the lens. I think that I paid the same for a filter back then as did just recently for the lenses for my D5000.
What is the opinion on the filters available today?
I have a Tiffen uv on both zooms that came with the camera. B & H prices the Tiffen at $9.99 where as the B&W cost is $38.50 and the Hoya is $20.85. One would think that the B&H is a much better piece of glass then the Tiffen

Here is a quick B&W from photoshop I only played with it a few minutes.
The snow is gone today. We only got one cross country ski event in.

concernig the jeep. I am not sure that it would fit.

not sure the show is white enough

I did not make myself clear I was looking for input on why the photos did not seem sharp from about 3' feet to infinity
But I appricate the positive comments.

Our back yard. The pin oaks are about eight feet apart and form a 200 foot tunnel. The Nikon could not focus on the snow; no contrast so I manually focused about 10 feet into the photos. Temperature was 16 degrees F. No tripod. Lens was VR 18-55mm with VR on. Sharpness 3. about 11 am in the morning looking west. ISO 200, aperture set at F11 and I let the camera choose the shutter speed at 1/500 sec. I was squating when I shot these
These are not nearly as sharp as I hoped
comments
Tom

20 mm


18 mm

All. I have a question that is a thread with respect to this topic. Way back in the dark ages in 1973 through 1975 I was stationed in Germany keeping the world safe. Actually I was lucky enough to be there with my wife and we traveled a lot. The first thing I did after arriving there was buy a Pentax spot matic with a couple of lenses. The next month I bought a car and the month after that my wife arrived. Soon we had a second camera and my wife used that some times she got some great shots at auto races.

We shot a lot of film. I have a shot that I took from a bridge over the Neckar river of a very young man playing in the sand on a river barge. He is letting sand fly from his hand while spinning. It is a shot that just shouts of being young and free from the stress of the world. You can see that he is not wearing anything but you can not see anything that one should not see in public. My memory says that this was a great photo, who knows it was shot with ectrachrome and may have turned yellow to the point of being not useable.
Is there a problem with this shot?

I looked in national geograpic birds on north america and i looks like common snipe. The dird is about 10.5" long

Merry Christmas
My Daughter has raised chickens for years. In 2004 and just last month a mink got in the coop and killed most of the chickens. In 2004 over a dozen birds were killed my daughters boy friend dispatched the mink using a side arm and staying up at night using night vision goggles to see. I am glad that I live in the county and on land deemed Ag 3 were it is legal to shoot a fire arm. She married the man last year. He is in the Navy so I have lost his mink control services. Last month 16 out of 19 birds were killed in one day. I never did catch the varmint. We now lock the replacement birds up at night in what I think is a mink proof chicken coop. We get about 4 eggs per day from 8 hens. The trouble is minks will roam during the day. My wife thinks that all women should wear a mink coat.
Tom

I liked the card. So many forget the reason for the season
Merry Christmas
Tom

how do I get the money? That is what are the steps to get people to buy? I assume that I need to water mark the works. Should I get a website?

I am currently reading a book by Bryan Peterson called, "Understanding exposure". His first suggestion is to use manual mode. I would suggest at least go to aperture priorty.
I like fixed focus length lenses. They have the DOF depth of field on the lens and you can see how much of your photo will be in focus. If you got your D90 as a kit you are likely using a zoom. I had a vivatar lens that I used in the 1973 that had DOF infomation; todays lenses do not.
Google DOF and find a online depth of field calculator. http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html has some good information. The wider the aperature f 2.8 or 4.5 the shorter the depth of field. A f 22 focused a third in to the photo will give the maximum depth of field.

I noticed that I have a dirty lense in one of these photos and I wish that I good get the power lines out of the other photo. These we taken January 2010 on the pond in our back yard. I was not prepared for the shots.
I am not having much luck using photoshop elements 8 to get rid of the power lines. I have down loaded the jpeg but also have the nikon raw. I let the camera make all the choices for both shots. The duck in flight was shot using a zoom at 82 mm, f 16 and 1000 sec, auto white balance, ISO was 400. the setting sun was 18mm, f 9 and 1/320. both hand held

duck in flight agains the setting sun


setting sun on frozen pond