I tried Lightroom for a year or so but found I had to go back to Elements to finish almost every photo. I found that things like background cleanup, foreground emphasis and cosmetic touchups (whitening teeth, minimizing wrinkles) could only be done with Elements. Elements and layers allowed me to apply adjustments to portions of a photo rather than more "global" adjustments. Plus, with layers, I can turn adjustments "off and on" easily, and if I don't like the adjustments I made I can delete the entire layer. I find the Elements RAW processor satisfactory, plus I can use it for JPEGS when I have to. As far as the "non-destructive" issue, I always keep the original file untouched, and save work in process in the Adobe format that saves layers. Only when I am fully satisfied do I save as a JPEG. I could not live with Lightroom alone, but this is just my style, others will have different experiences.

Elements comes with an organizer, which seems complete but I don't use. I found it a little too "independent", always trying to be helpful, but often just creating more work. I use a simple folder in a folder method, similar to one I use for documents and spreadsheets.

Although I have used Pentax equipment since 2003, the K-30 and K-50 have experienced significant reliability issues that I want to avoid. The K-70 does not appear to have these issues.

I rarely show anyone a photo until I have looked at carefully through Elements (now version 15) and made preliminary adjustments. Just me. If you have no interest in photo editing yourself perhaps you can find someone who would be willing to do it for you. I enjoy improving photos almost as much as I enjoy taking them (maybe more), so I look forward to helping those who do not. If you find someone to help you can just give them the card with the photo, save it to a USB stick, or even email it. They can return the edited version the same way, or order prints at Walgreens for you to pick up. If you decide to try your own photo editing, I found Elements 15 on Amazon for $39.95. Elements begins with basic (click here dummy) edits, and proceeds through expert in you want to go further. They also include interesting features like "turn a frown into a smile", haze removal, motion simulator and shake reduction, all of which might save a photo you might otherwise discard. All have guided instructions that anyone can follow. 16bit vs 8 bit? Probably not significant factor for most people.

I have the same Sigma lens for my Pentax and it actually does quite well when stopped down. F8 if possible. Manual is OK if you are comfortable with it because you have lots of time to check your results. Afterwards set the camera on automatic in case you see a good opportunity and do not have time for manual adjustments. You can go back to manual when you find a good landscape, but take one in auto first to have a backup. If you use spot metering for landscapes be careful you do not center on a small portion either too bright or too dim for good overall exposure. I personally do not recommend it for landscapes. Take a tripod for landscapes. Use PP to eliminate pesky tourists.

I use an old Amazon 7", and I can download photos or when I have WIFI use the cloud. They have a new 8" table due for release in June for $90. A short 90 day warranty is a con, but for a dollar a day one might say risk it. Unlimited storage with Prime,

Back in film days each roll came with a thin white paper with helpful hints, including a list of recommended settings for things like full sun, cloudy bright, overcast etc. If you can find an unopened roll you might be able to cut out the settings portion of the paper and carry it with you. Still, I'm glad to leave that silliness behind and use modern technology so I can concentrate on composition, focus and timing, something they have not figured out how to automate yet. They are getting close, however.

I started with an SLR when the only exposure guide I had came printed on a flimsy slip of paper with the film. I do not now, and never will, miss the pain of discovering that a eagerly anticipated negative was unusable because I miscalculated, or an essential factor changed quickly. I have always considered proper exposure a mostly mathematical exercise. Add this, take away that. A little more of this, a little less of that, etc. etc. Now, free of performing these mathematical exercises, I can concentrate on composition, focus and timing, things that only I, not a computer, can improve. I keep a very close eye on what settings my cameras recommend, and if they are close to what I want anyway, I go back to what I think is important.

This topic comes up about once a month. The MAC mafia comes out like rockets touting their machines (its almost like mine is bigger than yours, nah, nah). Losers probably have to upgrade before the next month. MACs are great, no doubt about it, but I'd bet these machines start a $2,000 and go up. If this is within your budget, go for it, but if not, take heart. Digital photo editing is not a resource intensive application for any modern computer. I run Elements 15 on a $400 HP right of the shelf from Staples. 8 gig ram, This Windows 10 PC spends most of it's time twitdling (sic) it's transistors waiting for me to decide what I wand to do next. True, some Elements features like shake removal take a few seconds to accomplish, but hey, you are creating a work of art, not painting a barn.

I buy Elements every two or three editions, depending on what new features appeal to me. I upgraded from Elements 12 to Elements 15 for $39.95 one-day special. Within elements you will find automatic, guided and expert modules depending on how much help you need. It also features e-live on line help, and there are many, many independent you-tube tutorials helping with basic to very advanced projects. Scott Kelby also offers very good books should you like to have something printed to read. Nothing could be easier.

I have two types of crops: Composition and Printing. Composition crops are made if there are elements in the original image that will never, ever, be included in the final product. These are rare in portraits since the setting is usually very controlled, but may occur in outdoor portraits, my favorite. Compositional crops are done first. I wait for printing crops after all other adjustments are made. I may end up with 3 final sizes depending on the printing format selected.

OK, good advice for the "2%" I suppose. For the rest of us, however, digital photo editing (as opposed to video editing), is not a resource heavy application. Just about any off-the-shelf PC with 8gig RAM and 1 TB hard drive will the the job nicely. Regardless of how fast any PC or MAC is, the limiting factor is the controlling human brain, and photo editing requires more human brain power than computer power. Even a comparative light weight PC will spend most of it's time waiting for you. If you have the money to spend follow the advice above, but if your budget is limited do not be afraid to buy something more average.

Most photo editing is done with a mouse, not a keyboard, so a laptop with an external mouse (not a pad), and a larger monitor will work well enough. I prefer a desktop, however.

I do recommend an on-line backup service and perhaps an external hard drive. Some sites offer unlimited photo storage free or very cheap, but I'll be damned if I can firgure out how they work.

In "normal" light I have found a 50mm too short for portraits, unless you like your wife to have a big nose. You also have to get right on top of pets, insects or children to fill the screen, then they get distracted by the camera and stop whatever it was they were doing. While too short for these uses, it is too long for many landscapes. After spending a good piece of my budget on a 50mm prime, I use it only for indoor photography when a flash is forbidden, like an art gallery, for example. Other people will have different opinions (urban dwellers, for example, might get more use), but I have found it rarely leaves the bag.

Unlike many people on this site, I find a 50mm too long for landscapes, too short for sports, portraits and almost everything else. I have several, and they rarely leave my gear locker. Panasonic makes several small sensor cameras with eye level viewfinders, almost essential for sports, indoors or out. An FZ200 or 300 will have a constant 2.8, which might help in low light situations. Alternatively, try to find a used dslr on Ebay or KEH, then pair this with a new or used Sigma or Tamron 70-300. Neither will be much use inside, (shoot RAW and maybe even good enough inside) but close to perfect for outside sports and activities. These lenses are new for around $200, and you can often find nice used ones for $100 or less. With a camera and kit zoom lens for $300, and a 70-300 for $200, you will be good to go.

Try the program that comes with your camera.