I have used Lexar and Sandisk Extreme Cards in my 40D for years. I prefer the 8GB cards, 60MB/s....I have used 90MB/s cards, they are more expensive...and as already pointed out, the camera can't really take advantage of the speed.
Drummer wrote:
I found a canon 40d with a canon 28-135-3.5 lens at a garage sail. I need to buy a CF card as it didn't have one. I have been using a canon 450D with a SD card and I don't know anything about the CF card it needs.
BigDen wrote:
"inexpensive" may be a relative term!
With the flash raised on a light stand, it may not be too easy to adjust by hand. I guess that is what "apple boxes" are for.
As for cheaper triggers,
I am using Canon gear, same light meter....and am having good luck with the Yongnuo YN622 Wireless ETTL Flash Triggers...One on Camera, one on flash (inside softbox), and I can adjust flash from back of camera (Manual-ttl-zoom & Power).
Just recently added the YN-622C -TX, which mounts on the camera, and can use the other trigger on a second flash.
My Pockets wizards are expensive, And for me these work alot better ( My Main flash and Pocket wizards have noise problems, and dont play nice).
On Amazon, the Nikon Triggers:
Yongnuo YN-622N-TX i-TTL Wireless Flash Controller for Nikon $50
Yongnuo YN-622N, $79
selmslie wrote:
This image serves to illustrate the relationship of illumination to reflectance. Although this was scanned from a negative, a digital image would have been virtually identical.
Compared to an 18% Gray card (Zone V or middle gray), the matt black paint on this car is probably between Zone III and IV in this scene - exactly where does not matter. The whitewall is probably between Zone VIII and IX - again, the precise value is not important since I did not spot meter it and I did not use the Zone System.
The point of this example is that, even though the entire car was covered with paint that had a constant reflectance, it was the light shining on the car that determines our perception of its shape, not the paint's reflectance.
This image serves to illustrate the relationship o... (
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Excellent example! Something I continually struggle to get a better grasp on. Thanks for posting.
Nikonos II wrote:
Another thing that can really help focus in low light is to use live view and manual focus with magnification on something you can see well.
Good tip, my go to method for moon shots :)
Rongnongno wrote:
I usually set my focus mode for a cession or part of it so the switching is limited.
Your tip is interesting (even if I use a Nikon) and useful. That is what really counts here.
Agreed, everyone contributes, we all learn and use what works for us. :)
Yes, manual focus will work just fine... But I like how fast I can switch between auto/manual focus.. Without dropping the camera from my eye.
A lot of times my 5D MKiI will have trouble focusing in dark, low contrast scenes. So I mount my external flash on camera-go into the settings and tell it "NOT to Fire", this way you can use the auto focus assist beam (on the flash) to help the camera focus.
I also use Back Button Focus to keep that focus locked once I release it...so my focus doesn't start "hunting" every time I push the shutter button (Which is easy to do with a flashy ferris wheel spinning around).
it doesn't blend well with me...maybe change the hue of the moon, add a reflection on the water coming towards the family?
How can you not smile ! Great shots :)
Seems kinda expensive, but for an all day class maybe not.
No matter how basic the courses I've taken, I always learn something. I would say it is a good idea.
There several good posing apps for your smart phone, that can be real handy, Also - look thru magazines and tear out the poses you like-take them with you in case you need ideas.
Backdrops are nice, but I don't carry one--You have a couple options; If you can get them 6' or more away from the background...and use a large aperture (like /2.8)..(and longer focal length helps 100-200mm)...you can blur that background out.
Or, you can speed up the shutter to make the background black or close to it. but you will need at least one flash--in a soft box or umbrella...and probly a reflector (or another flash).
The second option is also good for mixed light...if you are indoors, and there is a lot of light --say from incandescent bulbs..it is going to look yellow, where your flash is going to look white.
I'm looking for a new page myself, one that is already set up to sell photos, I just started using the free trial of Zenfolio, and so far it looks pretty good, and doesn't have a limit on pictures (storage).
On the other things.... It's always helps to have an assistant.
If you are taking head and shoulder shots, I like to have a 70mm minimum..on up to 200mm,
Indoors or out, I like to have an off camera flash(preferably in a soft box), outside I like to have subject in some shade, and use the flash to lighten the shadows under the eyes and chin. A reflector is very handy to help with this (if you have an assistant)...and if you are forced to shoot in bright sunlight, most reflectors have a translucent inner panel, you can hold above their head to dampen that harsh light.
I'm sure others will be of more help--have fun!
Don't know if this has been mentioned...but when you are in manual mode, your camera is basically a light meter. Just move it up and down & side to side and the meter will move based on the reflected light entering the lens.
I set my camera based on my subject. If my subject standing in front of a brightly lit window..I walk up to them till they "fill the frame"..adjust my meter to center, walk back...ignore my meter and shoot away. Because the light hitting them doesn't change as I move around.
aisajib wrote:
I used to open up every picture with Photoshop until I met lightroom and now in a constant dilemma on where to edit. True that for finer editing there's no alternative to Photoshop, but still I'm always thinking should I do this on Lightroom first and then move to Photoshop or start with Photoshop. I guess I shouldn't have introduced myself to Lightroom. ;)
Thanks for the Portrait Professional thing. I'll look that up.
Lightroom is a great starting point, then move to Photoshop. As far as the smoothing, One way to achieve this effect is with Gaussian blur, Mask it and paint it in.
You could post this question in the Post Processing section, and probly get a lot of great tips.
Portrait Professional Studio does a good job at creating this effect; I usually start with PhotoShop for finer control, to take wrinkles out from the eyes and mouth, clone out or heal blemishes and bumps, Then go to Portrait Professional.
I wouldn't go as far as this example picture, but it will do it if you are so inclined :)
One example: To me her nose doesn't look real, see where the jewel is missing? no detail at all.