Posts for: Normanc
Oct 22, 2012 08:57:34 #
Hi Tradscot,
I would suggest that you use the longest lens you can get your hands on. Tripod absolutely essential.Cable release also essential. I would strongly suggest that you use Canons 'mirror lock up facility. Scroll through the menu and you'll find it, I think under C.Fn111: autofocus/drive. The first press of the shutter raises the mirror, wait for all possible vibrations to have stopped then release the shutter again, this time only the shutter operates thus reducing the possiblity of camera shake. Use an ISO that gives a reasonably fast shutter speed so that you can stop all the motion during the eclipse. Good Luck, and I look forward to seeing your pics.. Norman
I would suggest that you use the longest lens you can get your hands on. Tripod absolutely essential.Cable release also essential. I would strongly suggest that you use Canons 'mirror lock up facility. Scroll through the menu and you'll find it, I think under C.Fn111: autofocus/drive. The first press of the shutter raises the mirror, wait for all possible vibrations to have stopped then release the shutter again, this time only the shutter operates thus reducing the possiblity of camera shake. Use an ISO that gives a reasonably fast shutter speed so that you can stop all the motion during the eclipse. Good Luck, and I look forward to seeing your pics.. Norman
Oct 22, 2012 08:21:42 #
Hi Ozman,
It is not easy to explain, but let me try.
If your starting image is of say a wall, if you make a duplicate layer then , for example put some sort of grafitti on the wall, then you decide that " I think it was better with out that change". Now, click on the 'eye' symbal on your new layer and you new layer becomes invisible, or if you want to add some detail , make sure that your layer is highlighted then any changes you make will be to that layer only. You may decide, well that was a waste of time, all you need to do is drag that layer to the trash can and you are back to where you started, if you decide that you are happy with your changes goto Layers....flatten image. and the layers will disappear so that you are left with the background image you started with. but also include your changes remember that once you flatten the image you cannot then make any changes to that new layer.
You can of course make as many new layers as you wishbut the size of the file can become quite massive untill you flatten the image.
Sounds quite complicated I know, but give it a try, if you think that you have completely messed up, close it all down and when it asks if you wish to 'save the changes', just click 'No'
It's a steep learning curve,however once you have a go you will soon be getting to grips with it!. Good Luck..Norman
It is not easy to explain, but let me try.
If your starting image is of say a wall, if you make a duplicate layer then , for example put some sort of grafitti on the wall, then you decide that " I think it was better with out that change". Now, click on the 'eye' symbal on your new layer and you new layer becomes invisible, or if you want to add some detail , make sure that your layer is highlighted then any changes you make will be to that layer only. You may decide, well that was a waste of time, all you need to do is drag that layer to the trash can and you are back to where you started, if you decide that you are happy with your changes goto Layers....flatten image. and the layers will disappear so that you are left with the background image you started with. but also include your changes remember that once you flatten the image you cannot then make any changes to that new layer.
You can of course make as many new layers as you wishbut the size of the file can become quite massive untill you flatten the image.
Sounds quite complicated I know, but give it a try, if you think that you have completely messed up, close it all down and when it asks if you wish to 'save the changes', just click 'No'
It's a steep learning curve,however once you have a go you will soon be getting to grips with it!. Good Luck..Norman
Oct 19, 2012 09:12:43 #
Hi Annie,
Welcome to the Hog!.I see that you have been taking photographs for about a year, and I can say with, almost certainty, you will have some images that you thought 'this one would be better or improved if.............. but I don't know how to achieve it !, am I correct?.
I don't do the technical stuff!. Well, sooner or later you will have to delve into the 'technical stuff'. May I say from the outset that it is not as daunting as you may imagine. There are a lot of people on here only too willing to help and guide you.
An excersize that I often ask newcomers to photography to try is this...
Assuming that you own a tripod, find yourself a subject that has detail in the foreground and it extends into the distance, eg a row of shops, fence posts or street lights. Set your camera to apperture priority ( Av on the dial) you'll notice that as you turn the dial different numbers come up ie f2.8, f4, f 5.6, f8, f11, f16, f22. Next with your camera mounted on your tripod, focus on part of the image that is close to you and leave it focussed on the same point and shoot several exposures starting at f2.8 then f5.6, f8, f11, f22.
When you look at the resulting pics you will notice that the depth of field (or the amount that is in focus changes) with each picture. This simple excersize will show how you can control how much detail you want in a shot. This is the 'technical stuff'. that you don't do.....Give it a try, I'm sure that you'll see it isn't too difficult. Message me anytime if I can help I will do so gladly, as I'm sure many others on here will also. Good Luck, Norman
Welcome to the Hog!.I see that you have been taking photographs for about a year, and I can say with, almost certainty, you will have some images that you thought 'this one would be better or improved if.............. but I don't know how to achieve it !, am I correct?.
I don't do the technical stuff!. Well, sooner or later you will have to delve into the 'technical stuff'. May I say from the outset that it is not as daunting as you may imagine. There are a lot of people on here only too willing to help and guide you.
An excersize that I often ask newcomers to photography to try is this...
Assuming that you own a tripod, find yourself a subject that has detail in the foreground and it extends into the distance, eg a row of shops, fence posts or street lights. Set your camera to apperture priority ( Av on the dial) you'll notice that as you turn the dial different numbers come up ie f2.8, f4, f 5.6, f8, f11, f16, f22. Next with your camera mounted on your tripod, focus on part of the image that is close to you and leave it focussed on the same point and shoot several exposures starting at f2.8 then f5.6, f8, f11, f22.
When you look at the resulting pics you will notice that the depth of field (or the amount that is in focus changes) with each picture. This simple excersize will show how you can control how much detail you want in a shot. This is the 'technical stuff'. that you don't do.....Give it a try, I'm sure that you'll see it isn't too difficult. Message me anytime if I can help I will do so gladly, as I'm sure many others on here will also. Good Luck, Norman
Check out Printers and Color Printing Forum section of our forum.
Oct 19, 2012 08:30:14 #
Hi Sherrlyn,
Welcome to the HOG.
Oh dear!, I must agree entirely with JR1. If you have to ask these questions you are DEFINATELY not ready for what is a very demanding job!.
I was a Wedding Photographer for quite a number of years and when I say it is very demanding, I am deadly serious. A wedding is a once in a lifetime event and not to entrusted to a once in a while photographer . You need a comprehensive knowledge of all the equipment you have, lighting changes, posing, changes in settings, all these things must be second nature to you. No one is guaranteed fine weather for their wedding, so, what about a wet weather alternative for the photographs. There are a miriad of variables that you could have to deal with. The best advice that I can offer is to let a pro shoot the wedding, by all means offer to help in some way. There are thousands of 'Wedding Photograhy' courses on offer, why not offer to help a local pro for free and gain some experience that way?. You could always spend some time shooting 'candids' at the wedding, a few of those are usually much appreciated.
At the end of the day, what has taken place is just a memory, what the photographer produces is something that will last a lifetime. I admire your ambition , just don't try to run before you can walk. The most memorable images taken at weddings ' don't just happen'!,they are the result of a great deal of experience and expertise. I do hope that we are not dampening your enthusiasm, that is not anyone's intention,but please do think carefully before you embark on a project like this. Norman
Welcome to the HOG.
Oh dear!, I must agree entirely with JR1. If you have to ask these questions you are DEFINATELY not ready for what is a very demanding job!.
I was a Wedding Photographer for quite a number of years and when I say it is very demanding, I am deadly serious. A wedding is a once in a lifetime event and not to entrusted to a once in a while photographer . You need a comprehensive knowledge of all the equipment you have, lighting changes, posing, changes in settings, all these things must be second nature to you. No one is guaranteed fine weather for their wedding, so, what about a wet weather alternative for the photographs. There are a miriad of variables that you could have to deal with. The best advice that I can offer is to let a pro shoot the wedding, by all means offer to help in some way. There are thousands of 'Wedding Photograhy' courses on offer, why not offer to help a local pro for free and gain some experience that way?. You could always spend some time shooting 'candids' at the wedding, a few of those are usually much appreciated.
At the end of the day, what has taken place is just a memory, what the photographer produces is something that will last a lifetime. I admire your ambition , just don't try to run before you can walk. The most memorable images taken at weddings ' don't just happen'!,they are the result of a great deal of experience and expertise. I do hope that we are not dampening your enthusiasm, that is not anyone's intention,but please do think carefully before you embark on a project like this. Norman
Oct 18, 2012 07:25:37 #
Hi Shelly,
If you are seriously thinking about buying a DSLR and good lenses. You may like to think about which manufacturer you may , or may not, have preference for. I have been a Canon user for many years and can vouch for their reliability. Secondly, when it comes to which lens(s) to buy. A good starting point is a short telephoto. Canon make dozens of lens of differing focal lengths. However, without question, if funds allow go for the 'L' series. the image quality is second to none, unfortunately, like most things in life you get what you pay for. The L lens cost considerably more than the standard lens, but the important bit is that piece of glass at the front. I have yet to find any other lens that can compare to the L series.
Another point to consider is what size prints are you most likely to want. A small APC size sensor is adequate for prints upto A3, a full frame sensor ( roughly equal to a 35mm negative) will enable you print photos to a much larger size.
I strongly suggest that you do not hurry into making a decision, do your research, go to different dealers and hold the cameras , see the effect that different lenses have, and of course who will do the best deals.
There isn't much point in considering a camera that has all the bells and whistles if you do not need them.
Just to reitterate, seriously consider the best quality lens you can afford. a good lens will give you years of trouble free use and also give you the best possible image quality. Good luck and I hope to see some of you photos here on UHH... Norman
If you are seriously thinking about buying a DSLR and good lenses. You may like to think about which manufacturer you may , or may not, have preference for. I have been a Canon user for many years and can vouch for their reliability. Secondly, when it comes to which lens(s) to buy. A good starting point is a short telephoto. Canon make dozens of lens of differing focal lengths. However, without question, if funds allow go for the 'L' series. the image quality is second to none, unfortunately, like most things in life you get what you pay for. The L lens cost considerably more than the standard lens, but the important bit is that piece of glass at the front. I have yet to find any other lens that can compare to the L series.
Another point to consider is what size prints are you most likely to want. A small APC size sensor is adequate for prints upto A3, a full frame sensor ( roughly equal to a 35mm negative) will enable you print photos to a much larger size.
I strongly suggest that you do not hurry into making a decision, do your research, go to different dealers and hold the cameras , see the effect that different lenses have, and of course who will do the best deals.
There isn't much point in considering a camera that has all the bells and whistles if you do not need them.
Just to reitterate, seriously consider the best quality lens you can afford. a good lens will give you years of trouble free use and also give you the best possible image quality. Good luck and I hope to see some of you photos here on UHH... Norman
Oct 16, 2012 10:35:30 #
Hi,
On a personal level I much prefer to see more directional lighting. IE lighting from the side. I prefer also to get myself down to the same level ( or thereabouts) as the subject.
Generally speaking I find that lower light levels tend to bring out the texture more in shots like this. The background on number two is far too busy. Shot on a dark plain background would transform this shot!....Keep up the good wotk ! Norman
On a personal level I much prefer to see more directional lighting. IE lighting from the side. I prefer also to get myself down to the same level ( or thereabouts) as the subject.
Generally speaking I find that lower light levels tend to bring out the texture more in shots like this. The background on number two is far too busy. Shot on a dark plain background would transform this shot!....Keep up the good wotk ! Norman
Oct 16, 2012 10:27:26 #
Hi,
Two suggestions, a) Google 'Rescue Pro'. a fantastic programme for recovering lost or deleted images.
b) Whenever I have downloaded my images, and the card is empty I ALWAYS RE - FORMAT in camera.
The cameras formatt will become your cards best friend.
I once lost some images because something went wrong with the formatting, apparently this can happen if you remove one or two images from the card.
When ever I put an empty card in my camera I automatically format it. I have no trouble sinced I started to do this ! Hope this helps. Norman
Two suggestions, a) Google 'Rescue Pro'. a fantastic programme for recovering lost or deleted images.
b) Whenever I have downloaded my images, and the card is empty I ALWAYS RE - FORMAT in camera.
The cameras formatt will become your cards best friend.
I once lost some images because something went wrong with the formatting, apparently this can happen if you remove one or two images from the card.
When ever I put an empty card in my camera I automatically format it. I have no trouble sinced I started to do this ! Hope this helps. Norman
Check out The Dynamics of Photographic Lighting section of our forum.
Oct 12, 2012 08:30:35 #
Hi Achammar,
Would like to thank you enormously for your advice, clear , concise and easy to understand. Thank you once again.
I was at the stage where I was about to start pulling my hair out. Be Lucky, Norman.
Would like to thank you enormously for your advice, clear , concise and easy to understand. Thank you once again.
I was at the stage where I was about to start pulling my hair out. Be Lucky, Norman.
Oct 11, 2012 13:39:46 #
Hi JRI,
I also used to do my own darkroom printing. But how on earth do I match my monitor/printer to what comes out?. I understand test strips but how do I utilise this with my current setup ?. Thanks. Norman.
I also used to do my own darkroom printing. But how on earth do I match my monitor/printer to what comes out?. I understand test strips but how do I utilise this with my current setup ?. Thanks. Norman.
Oct 11, 2012 04:23:52 #
Can anyone offer any advice.?
I recently purchased an 'X Rite' Color munki. This was in order for me to be able to profile both my monitor and printer.
My problem has been that when calibrating the printer and need to adjust brightness and contrast to a pre determined level ( indicated on a bar graph) I was unable to do so, the levels indicator would only move from one extreme to the other. I am desperate to be able to print my images exactly as they appear on screen. I have spoken to a representative of Epson , and their only reply was that Color Munki is a third party item and they did not have any training on it.
I have been asked to photograph some examples of Japanese embroidery, the client has asked for accurate color rendition on the prints. Any advice would be much appreciated. Normanc
I recently purchased an 'X Rite' Color munki. This was in order for me to be able to profile both my monitor and printer.
My problem has been that when calibrating the printer and need to adjust brightness and contrast to a pre determined level ( indicated on a bar graph) I was unable to do so, the levels indicator would only move from one extreme to the other. I am desperate to be able to print my images exactly as they appear on screen. I have spoken to a representative of Epson , and their only reply was that Color Munki is a third party item and they did not have any training on it.
I have been asked to photograph some examples of Japanese embroidery, the client has asked for accurate color rendition on the prints. Any advice would be much appreciated. Normanc
Oct 11, 2012 04:11:47 #
Hi,
This was a photo that I found here on UHH. I did send it to the correct recipient but also submitted it on you page in error.
I think it was on the 'newbies' page. Cheers, Normanc
This was a photo that I found here on UHH. I did send it to the correct recipient but also submitted it on you page in error.
I think it was on the 'newbies' page. Cheers, Normanc
Check out True Macro-Photography Forum section of our forum.
Oct 10, 2012 10:02:06 #
Hi, This one I put in in error, it was for someone else that I had tried to improve. Normanc
Oct 10, 2012 08:53:17 #
Hi Howie,
I've spent a few minutes on the photo,I have no doubt that it can be still further improved, probably with folks with considerably more skill than I ossess. Norman c
I've spent a few minutes on the photo,I have no doubt that it can be still further improved, probably with folks with considerably more skill than I ossess. Norman c
Oct 10, 2012 08:49:12 #
Hi Howie,
I've spent a few minutes on the photo,I have no doubt that it can be still further improved, probably with folks with considerably more skill than I ossess. Norman c
I've spent a few minutes on the photo,I have no doubt that it can be still further improved, probably with folks with considerably more skill than I ossess. Norman c
Oct 10, 2012 07:56:25 #
Hi Paul,
Hope you don't mind but I have re-cropped your photo and cloned out a few bits. I think it looks a little better if you can get as close as you can with the 'rule of thirds' in mind. Great photo , never heard of a white deer let alone seen one. Keep them coming !. Normanc
Hope you don't mind but I have re-cropped your photo and cloned out a few bits. I think it looks a little better if you can get as close as you can with the 'rule of thirds' in mind. Great photo , never heard of a white deer let alone seen one. Keep them coming !. Normanc
Check out Wedding Photography section of our forum.