You never said what method you were in, single point focus, multi point or an auto focus mode? A good tip is to put the lens on another camera body and compare the focus. Low light is also problematic for focus hunting.
When you shoot RAW you do not assign a color space to the image. Remember this is raw sensor data. The color space is attached to the image at the time of development and output. If you output a RAW file and create a jpg or a tif, then the color space is attached to the image file. Not until then.
This is a quote i found from Ken Rockwell on post prepossessing output:
"Adobe RGB is irrelevant for real photography. sRGB gives better (more consistent) results and the same, or brighter, colors.
Using Adobe RGB is one of the leading causes of colors not matching between monitor and print.
sRGB is the world's default color space. Use it and everything looks great everywhere, all the time.
Adobe RGB should never be used unless you really know what you're doing and do all your printing yourself. If you really know what you're doing and working in publishing, go right ahead and use it. If you have to ask, don't even try it.
If you're one of the few a full-time career professional photographers left standing and shoot for print, by all means shoot Adobe RGB, but if you're a very serious amateur, beware.
Adobe RGB theoretically can represent a wider range (gamut) of colors, however:
Adobe RGB requires special software and painstaking workflow not to screw it up. Make one mistake anyplace and you get dull colors, or worse. You cannot use Adobe RGB on the internet or for email or conventional photo lab printing. If you do, the colors are duller.
I've made Lightjet, Fuji Supergloss and inkjet prints of 100% saturated ramps in both color spaces. I saw the same color range in print with each colorspace. I saw no real gain of any wider gamut in practice, even with these special tests."
Sometimes we get things wrong. This is worth reading Re: Effective shutter speed for "IS"... from DP Reviews Nathan Yan
Image stabilization works at all shutter speed ranges. Don't think of it as something that actually affects your shutter speed, but simply a device that balances out the shaking.
Now, for a long shutter speed, your IS system has to balance it out for longer, which is harder to do. For fast shutter speeds, your IS needs to balance it out for a shorter time, and it may be so short that there won't be blur anyway. So IS primarily helps at slower shutter speeds, although see below.
Under the same idea, when using telephoto lenses with long photo lengths, there tends to be more shake, and the IS system has to work harder to balance the greater shake. With wide lenses, there is less shake, and possibly so little that there won't be blur anyway.
So IS will always work no matter what shutter speed and focal length. However, it's main benefits are for long telephoto lenses and long shutter speeds. Some would argue that it's really not needed for wide lenses or fast shutter speeds (although I personally disagree with this).
Shutter speed "values" are all the same - they're not related to IS. You may be referring to the "effectiveness" of IS systems - they usually measure them in "stops", a 3-stop IS system claims to allow you to shoot at a shutter speed 3 stops slower than you would have without IS, and maintain the same level of blur. What this actually means depends on the individual photographer. Someone who has shaky hands can normally shoot only at 1/1000s without blur (extreme example), so 3 stops would allow him to shoot at 1/125s without blur. Another photographer with rock steady hands would be able to hold his camera steady at 1/8s, so 3 stops allows him to shoot at 1s.
Hoods are the best way to protect your lens including a drop. Effect filters are great and that's why there are screw threads on the front of your lens ;)
Matt Granger: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GdumYhUE0Z4
The graph is bull...lol. my D5 mk-4 is awesome as is the 5Dsr...I prefer canon color dynamics and resolution over any other brand... If resolution is so important why do people post over and over that "it's not the camera it's the content of the photo and the artist behind the lens"...hmmmm? His lens could be off in micro adjustment or some settings issue. Sounds more like a resolution question than a focus question. Better lenses do offer more sharpness but "better lenses" offer bokeh with a low f stop more than sharpness in many cases. The cheap camera with the best lens or an expensive camera with a cheap lens?...post a photo perhaps
Use a tablet. They are cheap (under $100) and very convenient. The instagram app is almost automatic. It is not for "cell phone users only" program. Instagram let's you see work from all over the world and reach out with your own inspiration. If you post photos you will be surprised who will connect...including professionals or even studios like fstoppers. It is a fantastic tool and you will be surprised when a photographer from Russia or Japan asks to follows you. Very cool to use and you can also use the tablet to review photos from the camera when out and about!
I think the bottles are drugstore seltzer bottles (per-bottled fizz) and the glass spears could be fishing floats. the netting looks the same as the spears I see used in Norwegian fishing when I'm there ;)
I actually prefer the go pro,s to the dlsr because of the ease and 4k, except for pan and focus transitions. But even those can be edited into the post production go pro footage. You can trigger a go pro in a bird or animal scenario if you put it a location and use the accessory remote.
The Quality can be stunning and the fisheye can be edited in post. There is less fisheye and super detailed image quality in the 4k mode because of the frame size. There are lens cases and adapters that can accommodate dlsr lenses that look interesting. They are built like a tank and take a beating. I have been using 4 of them for business video because of the 4k the last 4 years. They are also easy to set up for syncing multiple angles with nothing to focus. The wide angle and fisheye can be a nice effect if you like that. The Black editions have an advantage in low light and do a nice job...lots of accessories available plus they are pocket size tiny. Fun and creative tool! Here is an example of the quality from a clip I did: Images can be as good https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rUERckmysv0
4 years with go-pro's with no problems and twice the run time. I wouldn't use them in the Canon but that's because the Canon batteries are so good. Wisabi's have larger capacity than the originals they replace.
There is probably no absolute answer to this question by anyone. If considering... the lens needs to be had cheap and second you must be willing to gambling that the lens is not etched. Most times etching is not an issue if it is recent growth. Everything depends on lens price and the persons abilities to get the lens apart or find someone to do the work. There are many step by step disassembly tutorials on youtube for just about any lens if you have a jewelers screwdriver set and the patience. A 50/50 hydrogen peroxide- ammonia is the solution most used to remove the residue and kill the fungus. Fixed lenses are easier- zooms of course more complex. It is a mater of removing rings, spacers and stacked lenses. youtube has many successful videos on resurrected glass if you look. Fungus is bad for the seller and can be very good for the buyer who can weigh out cost to risk.
For those who want to think outside the box: The surfaces of copper and its alloys, such as brass and bronze, are antimicrobial. They have an inherent ability to kill a wide range of harmful microbes relatively rapidly – often within two hours or less – and with a high degree of efficiency.
Antimicrobial copper-alloy touch surfaces - Wikipedia
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antimicrobial_copper-alloy_touch_surfaces Then watch this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4LVUeVVUm4
QUOTE: Simple answer is
Noise is an undesirable artifact, and many operations can enhance its appearance, not just sharpening. Tweaking curves, adjusting contrast, working exposure, etc. can all have some impact on the noise that is present in an image...although sharpening tends to have the greatest impact. It is important to handle the bulk of your noise reduction as one of the first steps of your development workflow. You should not necessarily aim to "eliminate" all noise...rather your goal should be to reduce the effect noise has on an image as much as possible without adversely affecting detail that you wish to keep. The tool you use to remove noise can have a HUGE impact on the results as well...Photoshop in particular is not really known these days as having the best noise reduction tools. Lightroom has some fairly excellent noise reduction, and there are other tools like Noise Ninja and Neat Image that also do an excellent job. Sharpening is a facet that is closely linked to the viewing medium of an image. Generally speaking, its best to save sharpening for last. Not only that, its best to keep sharpened images saved as separate files from your primary work image (which in turn should be separate from your original master image.) The amount of sharpening done, and the type of algorithm used and its settings, should be matched to the output medium for your photos. If you intend an image to be viewed onscreen, the kind of sharpening you do will be different than if you intend to print. The size of the final image for either medium will also affect how much sharpening you do, and how that sharpening is done. It's a good best practice to save resizing, cropping and sharpening for the very last two steps of your image editing. Duplicate, crop, resize, sharpen. If sharpening greatly enhances the remaining noise in your image, you may also want to do a final "light" pass of noise reduction to minimize it as much as you can without adversely affecting sharpness. UNQUOTE