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May 5, 2016 14:05:38   #
A useful comment; thanks.

About wide-angle or not:

1.
California impressionists painted mainly landscapes, exploring light.
Looking at mine, they are roughly the shape of a piece of typing paper in landscape format, but less wide -- and in one case nearly square. The one I have by the top female of the genre is in portrait format! I'd not observed this pattern before and have not seen such a comment elsewhere for the genre.

2.
To reinforce, I was looking at (drooling over?) the Nikkor 45mm PC-E last night; not so wide, right? Nikon trumpets it for nature. I'm doing the math: there are by definition more good outdoor images one can compose with a 45mm 1:2x than at 20mm.



Desert Gecko wrote:
It's tough to answer that. Most people think of wide angle lenses for landscapes because they want to take in as much as they can. Not long ago I picked a few dozen of my landscapes and put them in a folder to use as wallpaper on my Windows computer, setting it to rotate through them every half hour. I set it to "fit," meaning the images would fill my monitor, necessarily cropping the images as needed rather than leaving black bars to fill any gaps. I was amazed how much better many of my images looked cropped! Wider is not necessarily better.

I also recently read an article in which the author listed the focal lengths he uses for 'scapes and the percentages he uses them. He shot more in a portrait length (about 75-105mm) than any other length.

So you might consider a traditional wide, or if you go that way, an ultra-wide (on your camera, that would be down in the 11-16mm range). In that range Rokinon/Samyang makes some excellent, low-cost MF lenses! Otherwise, a decent walk-around lens like the Sigma 18-250mm Macro would give you a nice range for every day and landscapes. While not a true macro, it has better IQ than others in its class (it sometimes fools me into thinking pics I took with it were taken with my G glass!), and the close focusing distance allows you to stop down, use a hyperfocal focus point (look that up on Google), and thereby add some close foreground interest to add significant appeal to your landscapes.
It's tough to answer that. Most people think of wi... (show quote)
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May 4, 2016 16:42:28   #
"a very different photographic medium " -- thanks for this insight.

Uuglypher wrote:
Hi, Jenny,
I disagree. When folks make statements about the varieties of 'tography they have practiced, I think it is to provide some insight into the perspectives they bring to a matter under consideration. It obviously doesn't necessarily have any significant bearing on the validity of opinions expressed!

When it come right down to it, we are all on...or should be on...the same side ...the side of the paper on which the image is printed. :>)

I recall dinner table ...er...discussions... when, during my boyhood, we lived in Brighton ( A suburb of Rochester) between my paternal grandfather (a long-experienced glass plate photographer) and my dad (who worked for Eastman) on how the "sheet film" and "roll film" phase "wouldn't last". Perspectives and perceptions vary greatly, and have great influence on opinions, but, of themselves, seem to have damned little to do with facts and the inexorable progression of technology. For example, the fond nostalgia for the essentials of film photography and attraction to some of the similar aspects of JPEG image file production is understandable. But it doesn't (or shouldn't) negate appreciation of raw image data capture with appropriate exposure (assuring maximum exposure without highlight detail clipping) and it's resulting amazing potential as regards range of creative potential that renders the raw image file a very different photographic medium than ever before encountered.
And it's not really "new", it's potentials having been recognized and touted for at least twelve years.

Dave :-)
Hi, Jenny, br I disagree. When folks make stateme... (show quote)
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May 4, 2016 16:37:20   #
Well, maybe exposure is troublesome because how much of lights and darks is open to discussion.

We are not born knowing where the objective boundaries are and I'm still learning. Same goes for the aesthetics. For example, flare can work well in some few cases.

I saw a case where lifting shadow revealed centuries-old text that nobody knew about.

I have a sofa dated under the upholstery, in pencil on pine, to Nov. 10, 1847. Signatures are present but faint and unreadable. Exposure is part of the puzzle of how to read this; however, not now, as I'd have to compromise the upholstery to image it.

So even if you know how to expose, you still have to know good from better from best.

BebuLamar wrote:
Exposure is simple and certainly not rocket science. That's including all the stuff we talked about here all are quite simple. What I am surprised is that why so many people still have problems with it.
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Apr 30, 2016 16:50:45   #
Lived there a decade. Now I'm up the coast -- an improvement in weather and very few people out-of-doors, I find, which is a boon to nature photography.

About the Monterey Peninsula:

The only fully authentic historical relics in the area IMO are the garrison buildings on the lower Presidio inside which you can still smell the WW I horse manure when it rains; but the base is now secured.

The historical artifacts from the 18th and 19th century have been rendered too cheesy to shoot, if you know what they ought to be, though they are plenty interesting to see.

Monterey has been wholly sanitized, courtesy of a mayor who paved over the disreputable organic scene at the Monterey waterfront, long, long ago; nothing left of Steinbeck's era. Nada. They say she objected to the cat houses, lowlifes, and bars.

1. For Landscapes: The most beautiful 'scapes of all are 5-10 miles south of Carmel Valley Road on Highway 1, beyond revered Point Lobos.

2. For closeups: Go to Rio Road at the mouth of Carmel Valley; walk down to the river bed, parking inside 3850; nobody thinks of shooting that. Avoid poison oak by accessing the river at the tennis courts. Be gone by 5:00 PM -- lowlifes, again.

3. For studying composition: Check out the California impressionist art at La Mirada.

4. Underwater: Kelp forests.

5. Low tide: Creatures and plants in the rocks. Avoid the water on 17-mile drive; raw sewage, esp. near the seals.

Donj wrote:
I will be going to Monterey CA in a couple weeks. I have never been to Calif. I will have some time for photography. Any suggested must get shots in the area? Many thanks in advance.
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Apr 29, 2016 15:06:23   #
I'm going to watch tonight.

Strictly on a photography level, this https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2016/04/160426101307.htm interested me and I don't think I can get it on eBay yet. Often enough, NASA picks up aging technologies from the classified world, but who knows...
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Apr 28, 2016 14:58:46   #
PaulG wrote:
Made me smile too guys. Especially when you hear that Jewish intonation with the last comment :thumbup:


I picked up on that syntax and smiled.
Excellence in story telling.
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Apr 27, 2016 13:24:36   #
Asymmetric encryption can guarantee the integrity of a message, that is, of the EXIF data. Something Nikon could offer, maybe after Nikon enables us to name our old lenses with more than an integer.

Peterff wrote:
OK, so not copyright, but the modifying the copyright field in the EXIF data. That makes more sense to me, we all have our different methods.

For myself, I find that I can usually remember what lenses I've used, but with my modified Canon FL or FDn lenses they have a chip that records a focal length number and max f number for the lens in the EXIF data. That's enough to identify the lens, even with a zoom from the manual lenses that I have. Then I can use EXIF tool (if I wish) to update the data to change the lens data to a profile that explicitly identifies the lens as its actual type and specification, even down to the serial number. It doesn't/can't collect the actual aperture used, I would have to take notes if I wanted that, but it is easier than modifying the copyright field in camera every time I take a picture.

It looks to me as though your camera may be giving you enough information from the in body information to identify the lens, and if you wanted you could modify it with more detail later.

It's all extra work of course, so I normally only bother with a keeper image that I'm going to work on, then it takes maybe 30 seconds to update the EXIF data.

Have fun, this stuff is always interesting when using lenses that are from a different stable!

Sometime ago there was a thread about how EXIF data could be used to verify image copyright on the mistaken belief that it couldn't be modified easily. It's so easy to do that!
OK, so not copyright, but the modifying the copyri... (show quote)
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Apr 27, 2016 13:18:13   #
If you are plugged into a hub, plug directly into the computer.
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Apr 23, 2016 03:02:08   #
So I got some free sticker gum and paper when I remote-bought a used 60mm micro D AF lens. The barrel's flat surfaces and a non-flat ring exterior are contaminated but at least I know the seller's inventory number.

I'm looking to UHH for advice on how to get the rest of this generic sticker off of the lens so that the result is as if the label had never been there.

I could have returned the lens but I feel responsible to a well-crafted item. My goals are to not scuff or otherwise degrade the finish while getting the adhesive all off so the lens looks and feels (to my fingertips) as it should.
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Apr 22, 2016 14:36:30   #
Well, not to argue at all, but this is not the whole story. There are very few mentions that if the metal has been painted... or treated...

"...Proving Ground Command conducted its own flight experiments that same month on the subject, only with painted planes having polished surfaces,..." http://www.defensemedianetwork.com/stories/the-u-s-army-air-forces-strips-its-planes-of-paint/

Morning Star wrote:
Not from metallic objects.
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Apr 21, 2016 14:33:26   #
Nikonian72 wrote:
As lens focusing distance approaches 1:1 magnification, the actual plane of focus becomes more centered within the DoF (as compared to 1/3:2/3 DoF ratio at distant focus). Some macro-photographers attempt to capitalize on this optical phenomenon by slightly "back-focusing" on subject (such as eyes), and allowing DoF to pull foreground (nose) into focus as well. Quite tricky, and best accomplished by focus bracketing to find the most pleasing single image. This is also the basis for focus-stacking image captures.
As lens focusing distance approaches 1:1 magnifica... (show quote)
Informative remarks all around, esp. the DoF ratio point of Nikonian72.

purplequid, the questioner, asked about variability across lens makers. I'll try to feed in some marginal points, about manufacturers' specification fuzziness as it applies to (1) flatness of field, (2) angle of view, and (3) maximum aperture. Then I'll offer a way not mentioned here to lessen the need for focus stacking, in response to purple's question about avoiding stacking.

Flatness of field is an unstated assumption of the DoF-ratio equation mentioned by Nikonian72. The focal plane is generally bowl-shaped, from the vantage point of the subject; ideally this plane is flat in macro lenses. The versions of both the Nikkor 55mm (1:2) micro (macro) and 60mm (1:1) micro are noteworthy for their fidelity to flatness. Not all so-called macro lenses have flat fields but flatness is generally seen as a fundamental attribute of macro.

So, per purple's second question, does the manufacturer make a difference? At the margins due to flatness. Also for lenses generally, angle of view can be slightly mis-stated, another minor thing. Finally, the maximum aperture is sometimes slightly understated, as, I am told is true of a Voigtlander 58mm f/1.4.

As to purple's last question, "if there was anything (short of stacking) i can to improve the DoF of my images": Just got a Nikkor 85mm tilt-shift lens, which lets us re-orient the plane of focus to cover more of, say, a lizard that is not conveniently perpendicular. That is, the rectangular plane of focus can be moved away from perpendicular to the sensor plane. This can make it unnecessary for the photographer to coax the lizard into the plane of focus.
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Apr 15, 2016 15:48:57   #
Burk has a good take on infinity.

In photography, infinity is a surprising but practical metaphor, lacking any reality and any precision.

Many scientists forget that infinity is unobservable. So it cannot begin to be scientific (complete + correct + consistent).

Armies of scientists argue for infinity's reality, maybe because they need it. I'm pretty sure Einstein believed infinity is out-of-bounds for science but his successors by-and-large are unconcerned and horribly confused. They visit this confusion upon anybody who is listening.

Infinity is just a convenient, rich math concept/tool/whatever. And I like it -- as math.



burkphoto wrote:
Yes. It's called 'infinity'. It's precisely the largest number you can imagine beyond the largest number you can imagine, beyond...

In other words, 'precisely infinite' is a bit of an oxymoron.

Infinity is just the human way of expressing the idea that we have no idea how large the universe is, and whatever we're counting ends too far away for us to finish counting it before the sun evolves into a red giant and engulfs the Earth.
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Apr 13, 2016 13:25:14   #
A useful comment overall, but I'm not sure the following is discoverable in any detail: criteria to evaluate and it starts with ... types of glass and elements to reduce aberration, vignetting, distortion

True, Nikon's lens schematics will indicate low-dispersion glass in certain elements; but ED glass is not a constant formula and process from lens to lens. That's just for starters. Barely! And then there are the simulations that advise lens designers where to grind elements to preclude flare and so forth, with insights well beyond the abilities of mortals to analyze.

So why do I think this? I've tried to get a handle on these things, including coatings, but the useful content is closely held at Zeiss, Nikon, and Canon, probably with good reason. I have, however, pulled together a bibliography of especially useful discussions. Comments by the lens designer Sato now on nikkor.com will give you a hint how little we customers really know about the designs.


Mark7829 wrote:
I have no idea why anyone would come here and get information when all you get is opinion and often from inexperienced individuals.

There is much to consider when selecting a lens. Yes focal length and aperture are your first such as 70-200 mm f/2.8 but after that there is a huge list of items and criteria to evaluate and it starts with elements/groups, types of glass and elements to reduce aberration, vignetting, distortion (less distortion - sharper image!), number and type of aperture blades (better bokeh!), coatings (actually increase contrast, saturation, reduce flare and ghosting!), materials, weather sealing, metal vs plastic mount, AF, stabilization, weight and more!!!

If you have a question, do a side by side comparison!!! And then move on to opinions. You should also know that the camera and sensor you have is linked to the lens performance.
I have no idea why anyone would come here and get ... (show quote)
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Apr 11, 2016 13:36:22   #
About the meaning of this imaginative image, its immediate power makes me think, but this power is amplified because the hand is youthful, yet a wheelchair is needed.

The realism of this image spawns dwell time. Maybe it is a downer for most but actually it can be ambiguous if not both an upper and a downer.

Country's Mama wrote:
Since this is the critique section what about it is nicely done?
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Apr 11, 2016 13:17:42   #
Would be interested to know the names of some of the lenses, thanks. "older super multicoated lenses which give much more contrasty and saturated images than most modern lenses."

lamiaceae wrote:
To add to what the other first few replies were...

...do you want to see INTO water or the REFLECTIONS OFF the surface of water. Likely both at various different times. Like virtually everything with photography, think, compose and use what your equipment can do for you.

Personally I rarely use PL filters. I used mostly older super multicoated lenses which give much more contrasty and saturated images than most modern lenses. So I get very blues skies and nice clouds with little effort. Perhaps not on totally overcast days.
To add to what the other first few replies were...... (show quote)
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