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Feb 14, 2021 13:15:10   #
SonyDoug wrote:
As the title says I want to make a panorama of a unique 200 foot long building front by moving the camera instead of panning from a central spot. The building is on a narrow street so the farthest away I can get is about 40 feet. It's also an hour drive from home.

I did the usual panning type panorama on this last year. The fish eye distortion is what I want to eliminate.

If I had a slider 200 feet long it'd be easy (I think).

Trying this at home on a close-by building gave mixed results. I moved the tripod enough to get overlap, but not being able to keep the camera axis exactly perpendicular to the building face caused some discontinuities in stitching. I'm using ICE, Microsoft's free stitching program.

My current thought is to mount the camera in my car, mark stop points on the street and move down the length of the building taking many shots ( I think I can drive straight for 200 feet). I thought my 50mm lens might be good, but maybe 70mm might be a better choice?

Any thoughts, recommendations, lens, etc?
As the title says I want to make a panorama of a u... (show quote)

Why not post this in the Panorama section?
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Feb 13, 2021 20:30:46   #
Hanson wrote:
I know this lens does not belong to the top line of Leica lenses. Does anyone have any experience/assessment of it?

The “Leica Compendium” says the image quality is identical to that of the second Elmarit-R 180 f/2.8 version, which I found was about the same as the first Elmarit-R 180 f/2.8 version, which I bought new in 1969.
As far as I know, Leica only made two 180mm APO lenses - the APO-Summicron-R f/2.0 and the APO-Telyt-R f/3.4.
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Feb 11, 2021 03:50:55   #
selmslie wrote:
There is no reason not to post an image in the thread. It’s done all of the time.

Right. And more's the pity.
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Feb 10, 2021 21:30:55   #
Chromodynamics6 wrote:
My right index finger is becoming more useless every day. I have a Nikon D610 and a D7500. I use the D7500 with my Nikon 200-500 most every day. It has become very difficult for me to reach the shutter release on either camera but the exposure compensation is virtuall impossibe. Neither camera is capable of assigning the EC to an FN button. Back button focus is not a problem and I can easily operate the rear thumb wheel. I'm wondering if anyone else with a similar limitation knows of a solution. I researched this and haven't found anything. Any information or idea would be greatly appreciated. By the way, I know I can solve the EC problem by purchasing a D750 and a D500 but not the shutter release. I love both of my cameras and would prefer to keep using them both. Thanks
My right index finger is becoming more useless eve... (show quote)

Do you have a middle finger?
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Feb 10, 2021 13:55:25   #
Roe Cole wrote:
I just purchased a Sigma telephoto after I returned a 500mm Canon lens. Im shooting with a 30 mp Canon EOS R. Note that neither lens was an RF. Both were EF using an RF to EF adapter.

Both lenses have produced photos with a great excess of graining is them. Graining so bad I couldn’t use photos from either lens. To me the glass looks clear and have been cleaned.

I also have other EF lenses that go to 300mm and these lens produces very clear photos without issue.

After changing from the Canon to Sigma lens and getting the same results, I’m curious of it may be the impact of the EF-RF adapter or perhaps is there some other issue.

Any thoughts as to why the grain is so bad in these lenses?
I just purchased a Sigma telephoto after I returne... (show quote)

The lens will not produce grain (noise). Check your exposure and ISO.
Edit: If you are going to post a photo, please respect Admin - do not post it here in Main Photography Discussion!
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Feb 10, 2021 11:42:26   #
MikeMck wrote:
Anyone, besides me, having trouble installing the latest firmwar3e to the Nikon P1000? Thanks!

What kind of problems are you having? Nikon's directions are pretty straightforward, but you do have to follow them to the letter.
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Feb 5, 2021 16:46:22   #
Bigmike1 wrote:
These old lenses are in a display case with around 30 old cameras I have acquired. That is where they belong.

Are you pretending that's a fact, or just an uneducated opinion?
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Feb 5, 2021 16:37:36   #
Shooter41 wrote:
When photographing outdoors in natural bright sunlight and harsh shadows, without being able to use reflectors or flash, and the range of light and darkness exceeds the capabilities of your camera sensor, is one better off exposing for the detail in the lightest area, darkest area or half way in between? The three attached images not only show the intelligence of Starling to solve a problem in being able to get suet from the bottom of a suet feeder designed to keep Starlings out, but is an example of editing around blown out images in bright sunlight. Would you experienced male and female outdoor, natural light photographers please share your thoughts and suggestions for improvement? Thank you in advance.
When photographing outdoors in natural bright sunl... (show quote)

It's best to expose for the part of the scene where you want the best exposure.
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Feb 1, 2021 11:28:24   #
cedymock wrote:
My path started when blacks2 post Kodachrome Canyon in Utah; Songs about our work or hobby, so here is a list I found and please chime-in with any you may know. Also tell something that led you on a path. Sometimes it's just funny where I mind takes us.

1. Kodachrome -- Paul Simon
2. Photograph -- Def Leppard
3. Freeze Frame -- J. Geils Band
4. I Turn My Camera On – Spoon
5. Kamera – Wilco
6. Pictures of You -- The Cure
7. Girls on Film -- Duran Duran
8. Video Killed the Radio Star – Buggles
9. Pictures of Lily -- The Who
10. Camera -- R.E.M.
My path started when blacks2 post Kodachrome Canyo... (show quote)

This tripe should be polluting Chit Chat, not Main Photography Discussion.
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Feb 1, 2021 11:23:13   #
leftj wrote:
Don't know who you are responding to but it doesn't matter anyway.

I have no dog in this fight, but you might like to know that Rick Riggins is a professional camera repair technician who has his own shop in the state of Colorado, and should know more about the problem than you pretend to know. When I was living in the UK, two of my colleagues had similar issues with their D750 - in each case Nikon replaced the shutter. I believe both were under warranty. I don't know about Nikon's US policy.
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Jan 30, 2021 17:05:24   #
selmslie wrote:
Wide open there will be a slight difference in DOF if the aperture difference is a full stop but you probably won't be able to see it in an image.

Anything less than a full stop and you will see it very clearly in your bank account.

The OP seems to think that bokeh is a quantity, rather than a quality.
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Jan 30, 2021 15:17:17   #
Urnst wrote:
Fast prime and zoom lenses are huge, heavy, and expensive. What with autofocus and high ISOs with digital cameras why is such value put on having a fast lens? Slower can be just as sharp, albeit with a little less bokeh.

A slower lens will not have less bokeh than a faster lens. Won't have more, either.
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Jan 30, 2021 15:09:00   #
Jdaugherty wrote:
Hello I’m jdaugherty. I would like to learn about photography mainly as a hobby. I could READ about the difference between DSLR and digital and which is better all day. Which makes my brain hurt. I prefer hands on knowledge. So if anyone could spare a few moments of time all replies will be appreciated.Don’t want to start any fights 😂 maybe just DLSR OR DIGITAL and why you like it! Thank you

If reading it makes your brain hurt, how are you going to get anything out of what's written here?
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Jan 29, 2021 14:30:58   #
gvarner wrote:
Close-up flower shots render the petals without texture. They look too waxy and/or shiny with the colors smeared on them. Is a polarizer the best way to handle that or shooting with overcast or both? Your advice would be appreciated.

There are a few simple ways to address the issue. Unfortunately, each requires the ability to think.
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Jan 25, 2021 16:40:26   #
joecichjr wrote:
I have seen so many magnificent bird photos here, I think I may be willing to branch out a little from my normal flower and rural landscape shots - to birding. Can anyone of you recommend something for a Nikon D7100 around $500? I don't have an unlimited budget. I already have the Nikkor 55-200VR and a manual focus Tamron 60-300, which I haven't tried for this. Built like a tank and is heavy like one. No automatic metering either. I'm wondering if I would get enough extra reach going for the Nikkor 55-300VR or if I need more. Thank you for any advice. Joe
I have seen so many magnificent bird photos here, ... (show quote)

A Nikkor 55-300 will have the same reach as your Tamron 60-300. Try the Tamron and see if you need more.
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