If they get them printed elsewhere, you don't make any money on it. Not sure that is a valid argument for removing a watermark. I think it is the norm to put the studio name on the print. I have seen prints from the 30's and 40's where that is done.

A pro I know puts gaffer tape over all the buttons and levers. He shoots a lot in low light, using a flash, so making sure nothing changes mid-shoot is very important. Looks like the camera must be falling apart if you don't know why all the tape!

Check to see if there are good videos (or an actual person who can tutor you) for best operation of a scroll saw. I attended a woodworking show many years ago and a guy gave a class on scroll saws. I learned a ton about how to guide the wood, blades to use, etc. If you can meet someone like that, they can save you years of learning the hard way (and maybe prevent injuries, too).

There are limitations on how big a puzzle you can make with the scroll saw. The throat depth will be the main concern, but reaching over a 12 inch puzzle to guide the blade through it can be difficult and is a point where injury can result.

Sometimes, just taking the camera out of the bag can rotate a dial. Have occasionally found my camera set to P, even though I never select it!

You can get FastStone Image Viewer for free. It is my go to for viewing raw from any camera. I have never had a camera that it did not handle. When I got my MII, FS did not need an update to view the raw files.

But, why not just import the photos into LR? Once you do, you view them and mark for delete or move on to next (X then Right Arrow for delete; Right Arrow for keep). After you have marked all the deletes, then Ctrl-Backspace. When LR asks to remove from catalog or delete from disk, choose delete. Done.

Very cool! Let's see some shots of buildings where you correct for perspective. Always wondered about doing this, but I sold my Sinar F long ago.

Have fun!

I can't help you specifically with those monitors, but I have been using a Dell S2340M for about 5 years now and am super happy with it. Even before calibration, prints I got back from various online processors came back looking like what I saw on the screen. When I calibrate, the difference between before and after is almost undetectable.

Best bet is to Google reviews of them and see what complaints people have.

I hope this helps. I see that most responses have been either pro or anti Dell and don't address your question - welcome to UHH!

I think in terms from my film camera days. EV is a stop. +1 is exposure of +1 stop; -1 is exposure of -1 stop. As others have pointed out, manufacturers like to point out how well their AF works and if it works from -3 EV to whatever, you can be sure it will focus in light that poor.

Mostly though, once you own the camera, you are only concerned with getting the correct exposure for your situation, and the EV is just a value you dial in with the exposure compensation dial to get the exposure you want ( when you think the camera has not decided correctly).

At one time I would have been happy to convert to metric (maybe when I was in my 20's). It does make sense, on the surface. Everything is easily divisible, etc. There was a time when I converted fractions to decimals for addition!

However, every time I consider a construction project, I wonder, how the hell do you build anything? A 2X4 converts to 5 X 8 CM (and is not really those dimensions). A 4 X 8 sheet of plywood becomes a 1.2 X 2.4 M sheet. Yikes! How do you even say that? Do you convert the material to an actual size that works more as a unit. We currently build on a 2 foot module - most material requirements can easily be calculated if the dimensions of the project are divisible by 2. What module do they use in Europe?
Yikes! Do it after I die!

I agree with Drmike99 - Use Canon ink. More expensive, but reliable. I already been there, done that, got the tee shirt (but the colors are off).

A pro friend of mine does not shoot weddings for 2 reasons: 1. The Bride 2. The Bride's mother.

I wish you hadn't got me thinking of this. If I discount half my photos (that are actually kept) as duplicates, and figure out how many I have that I would attempt to sell or enter in a contest, the percentage is around .5% - that is Point Five Percent, in case you missed the little dot!

It is worse if you consider that there are many I delete after import that did not get figured into the calculation.

I understand your lack of agreement with your girl. People generally don't recognize a good photo. They are impressed when it is in focus, lit well, and has nice colors. I stopped shooting for many years (other than vacations and special moments in the family) because I was getting compliments on CRAP!

Don't discount your self criticism. Norman Rockwell ( I believe) once said that you could tell a true craftsman by what was in his trash can.

Mine blew up last year in the middle of a shoot. High speed burst; suddenly stopped and after waiting a few minutes to see if it started again, I removed the battery, put the card in my backup camera to see if it had captured what I was shooting (no) and continued with the backup.

The shutter was replaced and it cost me under $200. Last I had checked before this, I had over 80,000 shutter actuations. Not a lot by some camera standards, but still, not new either.
It works fine now, and since I have an MII as my main camera now, the M1 will last a long time.

I am not sure, now that you mention it, whether maybe a cleaning would have made it work. Hmmm!

Put it in the charger. If it is fully charged, the indicator will stay green (or whatever means fully charged on the Sony) or it will start charging. Either way, you will know you have a fully charged battery.

No need to worry about "battery memory" these days. That was a NiCd issue. Lithium or NiMH batteries can be "topped off" with no consequences.

As Dsmeltz points out, slow shutter speed and a little camera shake.
Next time try a higher ISO - maybe 1600 or better. Your 5D should be fine with that.
See if you can stop down just a little. With F4 on a FF camera, you won't have a lot of DOF.
Mainly, though, raise the ISO to keep your shutter speed above 1/100.
Also, set your focus point to a single one and make sure you get focus confirmation before releasing the shutter. I would try back button focus and get the focus on something close to where the action is, then don't touch it. With F8 and a high shutter speed, you could get everything in focus without worry.
Burst mode would also help in those cases where someone is moving while you are shooting - you would find one pic in the burst where they were momentarily still enough that the action was stopped.