Here is the pic

Anyone know how to create a starburst at night? This photo is shot at F10, 2sec shutter, tripod, mirror lock, 24-70 f4Lis. Iso100. Do I need to go to F22? Will I lose all the sharpness?

Best Canon lens they make when it comes to Price relative to Performance. I sold it when I went to the 2.8is version but I do miss it sometimes simply for the ease of use (size and weight). Optics are excellent as per other UHHers comments.

Well that pretty much closes the deal for me. Great post and thanks for taking the time! Sounds like a lot of work but if you have a photo thats really special....taking the time delivers noticeably worthwhile result.

No need to do anything special. Be at ice level and as close to the glass as possible. (Further away and the photo becomes less sharp) Try to shoot with the Glass in the same "plane" as the lens to reduce distortion. (This photo shot with 70-200f2.8 wide open with 6D ...target was near center ice and I was standing behind the glass just left of the crease) . No issues with focus acquisiton even from the normally "poor for sports" AF system of the 6D :-)

Does anyone have experience with DxO Pro and Lightroom and can comment on the pros and cons? I have heard that the noise reduction capabilities of DxO Pro alone are worth makinr the investment.

Do your research on the 3rd party lenses. The AF algorithms from Nikon and Canon are not shared with the 3rd party lense mfgs. I am a Canon shooter and the 70-2002.8 sigma and tamron are no match for the AF target lock speed of the Canon on a Canon body. If you are shooting portraits ... save money and buy the 3rd party lenses as the optics are still excellent. If you want sub-second focus lock on a moving target...especially in low light sports...make sure you know what you may or may not be missing from native lens....rent or research. I tested the Tamron and Sigma lenses before I bought the Canon. Grudgingly reached deeper into my pocket and shelled out the 2x for the Canon. (I own 2 sigma lenses and 1 use for sports. The sports lens is a f5-6.3 and i only use it outdoors and in sunshine for sports. It focuses well under those conditions....in lower light, its relegated to "bird on branch" photography :-) Good luck with your decision process ...its half the fun anyway....

C is much reduced weight and debatable whether you will notice a difference optically.(S is metal so more robust for travel)
Only weight reduction you get with the S is in your wallet :-)

[quote=LoneRangeFinder]Knowing the equipment and having the right equipment is perhaps a quarter of what he needs to know. Does he have a back-up? A shot list? Has he posed groups before? Is he prepared to forego the experience of attending his sister's wedding? He has to know- he's there as an employee- not as family


Great post. I have heard so many horror stories of "Uncle Bob" doing the wedding photos. Not saying he cannot do it (we all started somewhere). If he can get some time with pro/friend to help him prep...would be a huge help.

Dual slot camera ensures against 1 slot failing and losing your pics. If you are getting paid and there is no do-over (ie wedding) its a must. Otherwise, the mem size is whatever works. Too small and you either are running out or have to do a swap (swapping in the rain or snow is dicey at best). Larger sizes MAY fail more but i have not seen any stats. I have 5 - 32gb cards (Lexar and Sandisk) for 2 yrs and none have failed...yet). Have had the smartphone-sized 16g cards fail x2 in the past 4 yrs however).

Other tboughts...
Buy the 150-600 ( have the sigma 150-600c and its a beauty...newest Tamron may even be better). Buy a wide angle 16-35mm and bring it. Leave the 24-70 at home. You can crop any 35mm photos you take and the 16 end will give you breathtaking vistas on a FF body. Wildlife and vistas will be what you will shoot and the odd friends photo)

If you had a crop camera....you could get a cheap wide angle vs the 16-35. Plus the crop would give you equiv 1.6x600 = 960mm tele on canon( ...nikon i think is 1.3 or 1.5 ....need to look that up)

I like the idea of renting an 800 but it will be HUGE.

Check out BlackRapid also. Similar to Optech double sling......More expensive but has a front stabilizing strap across the chest. I have used it for several years now. Each side can be used as a single strap also and then combined as a double.

General rule:
Smaller sensor, higher density pixels = smaller photocell = less light capture = more noise.
Ie crop sensor, smartphone sensor, Point and Shoot sensor...

However....

Sensor design in the newer high end FF (5DMkIV, 810, A7Rii etc) have high mpix and still excellent low noise at higher ISO.

One of the main reasons why pros use FF cameras. Low light performance !

Outdoors, high frames per second is more coveted for sports, birding etc Cameras are now coming out that can do both in the 3-4k price range vs 7k needed to get both in the past.

Key messages I tok generally,
1) primes are better than zooms at a given focal point.
2) Zooms of 1 Part number vary from copy to copy in sharpness and at different focal points
3) dont argue online about "this zoom is better at 70 than 200" because you are likely just arguing about point#2 :-)

...and the video does not cover autofocus "accuracy" (can i microadjust?) nor "repeatability" (should i return it?). My sigma50mm1.4 was terrible in terms of AF repeatability. The 2nd copy is better but I still manual focus as well as AF just to be sure. The video shows a "flat to the sensor plane" test target which will be of no use for microadjust. If you dont deal with that....ALL your photos will be soft, forever, on AF...and you will think it is just the best you can get....not sure what else you may be referring to but would be interested for you to expand your thoughts beyond the metaphors...