At first, using flash could be intimidating. Many photographers get frustrated because they do not know the techniques to make their flashes work as if flash has not been used. There is nothing worst, except when working outdoor, than pointing straight flash to a subject. There will be lots of contrast and ugly dark shadows behind the subject. Soon you will be learning a technique called BOUNCING by which the flash is directed to a white wall to diffuse the light, make it wider and make it softer on the subject.

Flash in basic terms imply a double exposure, one exposure for the ambient light when there is enough ambient light and another for the flash. The exposure for the flash depends on the aperture of the lens that has been set while the set shutter speed regulates the amount of ambient light the subject receives. This is all basic flash photography as you will soon discover. Another basic flash principle is that as the flash is moved away from the subject there is light fall off which is called "inverse square law." The closer the light is to the subject the softer the lighting.

Your flash has an i-TTL (intelligent through the lens) function meaning that the flash works with the exposure meter of the camera when making an exposure. The meter in camera communicates with your flash to add only the necessary amount of light for a good exposure. Bright or dark subjects will require some type of exposure compensation and if you do not understand for now do not worry, you will learn all this as you study flash photography. When using TTL the flash illuminates the subject with little consideration to the background, ideal for indoor use. Techniques like mixing ambien light and flash will extend your knowledge of how to use flash and will be an important factor in improving your outdoor flash photography.

You will find lots of information with a Google search and there are very good books and tutorials available to improve your use of the flash. The rest is practice.
Based in New Jersey there is a very good South African photographer who has specialized in portraits and weddings whose name is Neil Van Nieker. In his website Planer Neil he has tons of useful information about flash photography and you could read some of it in addition to what you have already been recommended. Take lots of notes, go slow, if at all possible get into a camera club assuming there is one in your area and then begin to practice.

Start by learning everything about your flash and how it works.

I’m looking for some advice from those of you with experience using the Nikon 200-500 or the 80-400. My photography hobby consists mostly of trying to get good action shots at the grandkids’ soccer and little league games. I have the latest version of the 70-200 2.8 teamed up with a d500 and I’m very happy with the results. I can get close to soccer fields so the 70-200 would likely always be the lens for soccer. But my grandson plays travel ball baseball and many of the fields are set up where you must stand much farther away from the action to get an unobstructed shot. Sometimes I’ll use my old trusty 18-300 and manage to get some good pics, but because I often have to crop in I think I’d like a little more reach. The 80-400 would be more versatile, so maybe it comes down to how well these lenses AF on moving subjects. Any suggestions would be appreciated, thanks.

What! You didn't get photos of the sky???
Sometimes, fly overs need to charge money. As a small plane pilot they don't do it for free. The grounds need to be paid for. Namely all the people walking over the grass causes wear and tear. You might have concession stands serving food. Add in insurance costs because you don't want any problems overhead. And finally, people need a place to go. Those portapotties aren't free. Plus the list goes on.
As for $95 I don't think it is a great deal of money for an excellent photo op. It is extremely rare for an event promoter to do things out of the goodness of their heart.
You can make a day of it. Have fun. Visit the event then go local touring to nearby towns. I have gotten some nice photos from Woodstock, New Paltz. It involves driving but that is what GPSs are for!

Happy Shooting!

I'm pretty familiar with sharpening and the theory and methods, and have read a lot of the background websites, but I was wondering what your go-to method is and particularly why, especially for output sharpening. I have my own thoughts on the subject and usually use smart sharpen in Photoshop for several reasons, but others seem to swear by unsharp mask while others go for high pass. Is your choice of methods situational? What situations? Do you have science to inform your choice or is it just personal preference/hard won experience?

My wife and I are planning about a week in Charleston, SC in mid June. She has been there once and I have never been. Looking for suggestions for photo opportunities, historical sites, breath taking scenery, etc.

Best sections of town to stay in for both quality of life and safety if we wander out, especially at night....

Interested in history of area both nautical and land based and photographing same. My experience with tour buses in other places is that I don't get good shooting opportunities--people in the way and the buses go too fast!

Walking tours ok if not too long. She is late 60's and I am 70 and it will be hot there so walking cannot be terribly far in the heat.

Wondering if horse drawn carriage rides would be good or if they are too crowded. Slower and smaller group I would hope than a bus, etc.

Also wondering about places to simply drive the rental car to and from, etc.

Suggestions as to what not to miss as well as any tourist traps to avoid would be most appreciated.

Primary interest is photographing the historical sites, landscapes, seascapes, etc.

Am planning to take my Canon 5DIII and three lenses: a 16-35 f4L, a 24-105 f4L and a 70-300 f4-5.6L. Probably throw in my f1.8 nifty-fifty for night time and a monopod. Is this overkill? If so which lenses to take and which to leave at home? All will be carried in quality Lowe Pro back pack with hip straps to transfer weight to my hips and off my shoulders. Will also likely take my Sony RX10 III (f2.5-4, 24mm-600mm) and as over all backup. Would not be carrying both cameras at the same time though. That way if the Canon gets too heavy, I could always fall back on the Sony.

I realize this has become long. If you are still with me, please give me your thoughts and the benefits of your experiences. Thanks to all!

Tom