Ugly Hedgehog - Photography Forum
Home Active Topics Newest Pictures Search Login Register
Posts for: ecurb1105
Page: <<prev 1 ... 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 ... 44 next>>
May 4, 2019 09:29:55   #
BlackRipleyDog wrote:
This notion drives me nuts as well. Kind of like this belief in Russian Collusion. Irrational but it makes sense to some people.
For example - project an image onto a white index card. Then lay a white business card down onto the index card. The business card shows only the center portion of the image being projected. It is not magnified or enhanced in any way. Just a smaller surface. The same with sensors of different sizes.


đź‘Ťđź‘Ť
Go to
May 4, 2019 00:15:18   #
kenArchi wrote:
If Flash Power matters, it matters.
If Flash Power doesn't matter, it doesn't matter.


Depends on the shoot. My basic kit used to be two 2400 ws packs and a 1200ws pack with six heads.
Go to
May 2, 2019 13:43:12   #
digit-up wrote:
I’m in a photo/camera club that seems to think (as a group) that all images taken, should be FIXED..in other words, if you haven’t post processed the image, it isn’t good enough. I’ve seen folks that grab a sky from here, a foreground from there, layer in some flowers, and delete/or crop much of the original image, to get a so-called acceptable photograph. I’m not that keen on tha CONCEPT, generally speaking, but I don’t have a problem with some “after-shot TWEEKING”. On the other hand , I’m adamantly opposed to buying a program That requires a renewal fee monthly or per annum. Seems like a screw deal to me. I would like to hear from Hoggers on their approaches to getting and using post-processing programs. What’s the good, the bad, and the ugly?? RJM
I’m in a photo/camera club that seems to think (as... (show quote)


While you seem to be complaining about people who did computer art and made composited photo-illustration rather then photography, you then ask about software. I agree that composited illustration has its own place in the art world, it is not straight photography. I usedto get offended when a client wanted something like a HVAC unit and ductwork retouched out of a building picture. I stuck with simple cropping, burning dodging, color correction, thing I used to do in tbe darkroom in film days. Free software I now use is GIMP and Faststone. I also do not care for the Adobe subscription model but if I were to freelance full time agian. I'd subscribe in a heartbeat.
Go to
May 2, 2019 10:17:00   #
Hassie wrote:
I previously was thinking of going from my Canon 60D to a Nikon 750.
There were a lot of comments from both directions, for and against.
I have been thinking on the suggestions and have looked at the various Canon full frames and find that a refurbished
5DIII at Cameta is a reasonable option with a rating of Mint and a very low shutter count.
It is the lens that I would be buying that has me confused. What would be a good multi-purpose lens for this camera until I can start
getting some additional prime and tele lenses? 24-70? 70-200? Sigma or Tamron or Canon L?
I have a trip to the Rockies planned in June or July.
I previously was thinking of going from my Canon 6... (show quote)
Go to
Apr 29, 2019 18:49:54   #
CO wrote:
The strongest shoulder bags that I have ever checked out are the LowePro Magnum series. They have a one-piece molded bottom that is strong and can take a lot of weight. A lot of bags will sag from the weight of the gear inside. Not the LowePro Magnum series. I have the Magnum 200AW. It's a fairly large bag. The 400AW and 650AW are even larger. They also have a rain cover that pulls out of a zippered pouch. I've been caught in the rain and used the rain cover. Check out the LowePro Magnum 650AW.


I also endorse the LowePro Magnum 200AW. I have one from my film days. I can load more gear then I care to carry. At my age now I use a folding luggage cart to work out of the Magnum bag.
Go to
Apr 23, 2019 11:41:58   #
fourlocks wrote:
Jerry's posting about eyeglass retainers raises a question. Do you wear your glasses or take them off, when looking through your camera's viewfinder? I was setting up my wife's Sony HX-400V and she complained the view was blurred, looking through the viewfinder.

"That's because I need to adjust the diopter for you with your glasses on." I said. "But I take my glasses off when I take pictures." she replied.

That made me think a bit...I have my D5500 set up so the view is clear when I'm wearing my glasses which I've always kept on when photographing. Mostly I keep them on out of fear of losing them if I put them down somewhere for the 2 to 3 minutes my memory's good for. Is this a bad technique or simply a personal preference? How about the rest of you? Why? If it's a bad idea to keep them on, I'll go with Jerry's retainer.
Jerry's posting about eyeglass retainers raises a ... (show quote)


Even if your wife takes her glasses off, it's still a good idea to adjust the diopter to her vision.
Go to
Apr 23, 2019 11:38:55   #
dyximan wrote:
Would someone explain why these 2 photos taken only moments apart are have such a differnece in color, Metering Mode, or Area metered? or?
Thank you


Exposure. Bottom image has washed out colors due to over exposure. WB stayed the same.
Go to
Apr 21, 2019 17:17:18   #
JBGLADSTONE wrote:
Hi All, first time posting and years of reading.

I have noticed my manfrotto tripod creeps at various angles. I locked the various lock down knobs but still movement. Oh I do know if the wife walks across the floor I will have creep/movement.
I mainly noticed this when I zoom in for manual focus in the live view on my Canon 80D. I think I now know why some my photos are soft.
Now I have taken my old Bogen tripod with a 3025 head, cleaned the various arms and adjusted the legs for pinch. No movement but a heavy tripod compared to the Manfrotto.

Help
Hi All, first time posting and years of reading. b... (show quote)


Get rid of the ball head. That is your problem.
Go to
Apr 18, 2019 13:56:08   #
Longshadow wrote:
Only if you use the back display a lot, which some do.
(I use the viewfinder.)


Exactly. I do not use the rear screen for still work, viewfinder for me. For video, on the griping hand, a hoodloupe is essential. I also only shoot video using a fluid-head tripod.
Go to
Apr 17, 2019 13:07:00   #
Sunnely wrote:
Hi, All.

I just enrolled in a class for Night/low-light photography to start July 10 - August 14, 2019 (weekly) for NOVICE. Below is the course objective and description.

I would appreciate your input/suggestions as to the equipment (e.g., tripod, lens, etc.) and brand. At present, I have the following equipment: Camera - Nikon D7200; Lens: Nikon 70-300 mm, Tamron 18-300 mm, Nikon 35 and 50 mm. I have a tripod but not sturdy and steady so I will most likely ditch that one. I'm sure the instructor will go to specifics about this but just want to address/research it soon rather than rushing to order from Amazon, B&H, or Adorama.

Course Description:

"Learn techniques to create dramatic photos in night or low-light environments. Learn what special equipment is needed for night photography, how to capture images as the light level changes, how to photograph moving objects in low light and how to paint a subject with light using a small strobe or flashlight. Emphasis will be placed on capturing images such as streets, cityscapes, buildings and entertainment venues after dark. Students will use their own equipment for this course. Note: Students must be available for at least three night sessions of class."

Thanks for your input.

.
Hi, All. br br I just enrolled in a class for N... (show quote)


Once you get the sturdy tripod and some form of cable release, learn to set your camera for time exposures. Then bring an 8x10 black card. Use the card as your sutter. Once your imagd is composed, cover the lens with the card without touching the camera, open the camera shutter on time setting. Uncover the lens to start your exposure and end the exposure by covering the lens. Then close the cameras shutter.
Go to
Apr 14, 2019 21:43:40   #
n3eg wrote:
Just bought a Kodak DCS Pro 14n with a box o' batteries and a Nikon 28-80mm f/3.3-5.6G. Also picked up a Tamron 171D 28-200mm f/3.8-5.6 IF LD. After figuring out the backwards lens twist, I went through the camera menus. And they say Olympus menus are complicated!

I always said I would never buy a FF DSLR unless it was a Kodak...

Anyone have any tricks/tips other than the usual "set it for lowest ISO" ?


Your best trick would be to dust it off, set it in your museum display case and never shoot it.
Go to
Apr 14, 2019 01:48:16   #
Capturing moments wrote:
Hi I’m looking to purchase a new or used wide angle full frame for a Nikon 750.
Suggestions!! Thank you!


Nikon 20mm F2.8
Go to
Apr 14, 2019 01:42:19   #
kymarto wrote:
You'll never get correct color balances with incandescant light sources, since they themselves do not have full spectrums.


I don't know where you're getting your data from but that's just wrong. For years the studios I worked for used 3200 degree Kelvin lights with Ektachrome type B for perfect color reproduction. Have you checked the spectral output of a 3200 degree Kelvin photoflood or halogen lamp?
Go to
Apr 5, 2019 14:39:52   #
bjwhets1 wrote:
I have a canon t7I. I have trouble seeing my settings in the viewfinder. Can anyone tell me if there is a brightness control so I can see my f-stops and shutter speeds better?


Your camera uses an optical viewfinder. About the only usable accessorie is a rubber eyecup for the viewfinder. You might also consider going to a mirrorless camera with an EVF that you can adjust the brightness of the display.
Go to
Apr 4, 2019 14:15:02   #
ornault wrote:
Greetings All!
Where have you had good experiences in sending out manual 35mm film cameras for repair? Mine are mid-sixties Nikon F's which I believe a good CLA now would be in order. Thanks in advance!


International Camera, Chicago.
Go to
Page: <<prev 1 ... 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 ... 44 next>>
UglyHedgehog.com - Forum
Copyright 2011-2024 Ugly Hedgehog, Inc.