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Mar 22, 2016 10:06:42   #
DavidGreen wrote:
Hi I'm looking for a good telleconverter what do u recommend.
I was looking at the kenko Kenko Teleplus PRO 300 DGX 2x AF Teleconverter
and the tamron 2x SP AF Pro Teleconverter for Canon EOS
I'm using a canon eos 7D thanks for your help


Canon version III are great I have both 1.4x and 2x; What lens you putting it on?
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Mar 21, 2016 16:51:22   #
burkphoto wrote:
WTF???

PLEASE check out Dan Cox's blog.

http://naturalexposures.com/corkboard/

He's been using Panasonic GH4 and GX8 cameras almost exclusively for a couple of years now. His bird-in-flight work is amazing with the GX8 and forthcoming Leica 100-400mm zoom (200-800mm equivalent).

He has stated more than once that the GH4 holds its own, with frame rates in the 10-12 fps range (30 fps if you use the 4K burst mode).


I read the blog and the photos are great; he also admits he was wrong and the frame rates are 6fps; read the blog. While high frame rates are published for live view, you don't shoot BIF with live view.

I went to the DP Review for the 7Dmk2 (which is on my wish list) and this is his comment about the focusing:
:This is the type of performance we've come to expect from dedicated phase detect autofocus systems – fast focus and tracking of subjects moving toward and away from the camera are the name of the game when it comes to dedicated phase detect autofocus. In fact, these abilities are some of the biggest reasons pros and enthusiasts spring for DSLRs over their mirrorless counterparts." That certainly implies that the focus is better and faster in a good DSLR.

I am not opposed to carrying a lighter camera; but I do shoot a lot of birds, frequently with photographers much better than I am and I have never seen a professional bird photographer that was not shooting a large Nikon or Canon; all stated that the focus is faster than any mirrorless camera. In the blog, there was an interesting comment to this effect. Photographers with lessor ability, who can not compose well in the frame, may need the larger sensors. (or something to that effect) Well, that's me; not the best but the gear I have gets me published, which is my goal.

In my previous comment, I stated two things: I was not happy with a mirrorless camera for wildlife/BIF, among the reasons was that my other gear focused faster and more accurately; Still believe that is true. That does not mean you can't get good photos from other gear. But I can get more consistently in focus photos out of my DSLR, and the higher frame rate gives me more options for wing position with the faster frame rate. Cheers!
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Mar 21, 2016 09:57:21   #
Old44 wrote:
Most of my time in photography has been spend pursuing sharpness and as a result I have had and sold a number of cameras and lenses over the years. Now however, I have the Nikon 610 and absolutely love the images. Couple it with my Nikon 300mm f/4 and I am in hog heaven sharpness. But at age 71 I find that weight is becoming a concern and the 610 and bird-seeking telles (also Sigma 150-600mm) are REALLY heavy. My question as I ponder the use of lighter mirrorless cameras is, am I foolish to think that, given my limited abilities that still achieves sharpness with the 610, that I can be happy with a smaller mirrorless camera?
Most of my time in photography has been spend purs... (show quote)


You will not be happy with mirrorless for birds. The focus is slower, frame rate is slower, and for me the results don't even compare. I tried that route; I am 75, I try to exercise more, and just tote the stuff. I carry a Canon 1DX + 600mm F4 routinely all day with or without a big tripod. If I am shooting BIF, I don't use a tripod. Get a good strap, set the camera down on the ground when ever possible. I place it straight down resting on the lens hood when I don't have the tripod. Rest between shots and do your best. It is not like hiking with a full pack, my gear weighs about 22 lbs with the tripod. My gear gives me the photos that I want, so I suck it up and go. Am I tired at the end of the day, you bet. But I believe you either use it or lose it. So I keep trying.
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Mar 20, 2016 07:55:36   #
GoofyNewfie wrote:
I have 2 Nikon Coolscan LS 2000 units with slide stack loaders at work.
The only drawbacks are Nikon doesn't support it with newer windows computers and the slides jam if your mounts aren't in good shape. VueScan software is a pretty good substitute and does some things the Nikon software never did like automatic cropping. Another positive thing you can't get with using your camera is the dust and scratch removal. The Nikon (and other scanners, I believe) mKe a red, blue, green and infrared pass of the slide. Anything picked up in the infrared pass is dust or a scratch and the software does a very good job of suppressing them. Won't work with black & white negatives.

When you're done scanning, you could sell it.
I have 2 Nikon Coolscan LS 2000 units with slide s... (show quote)


I have scanned about 10,000 slides with my Nikon coolscan; and the above is all true about the software. I "softened" the spring load on my autoloader and it jams way less. I have more to scan then I"ll sell it. I think it is in the neighborhood of 4000 DPI
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Mar 19, 2016 08:49:30   #
Well, I feel sorry for you! The photography bug has bitten you in the most expensive place - Birds! Yeah me too! That means you need the best gear that will focus the fastest, have long lenses with good apertures for low light/high shutter speed. All that comes at a price. But you don't have to jump for everything at once.

However, once you are committed to really doing bird photography, you will need a DSLR and nothing else focuses that fast. Best entry I think is the Canon 7D mk2; then start getting lenses as you can afford. I would recommend a couple of websites: dougbrownphotography.com and birdsasart.com, and alanmurphyphotography.com; you can learn a lot there. My approach to learning photography is to find someone (usually on the web) that makes photos that I really like and then ask them, How'ed you do that? I don't know of a single serious bird photographer that does not use a DSLR, and many have gone to using the 7D mk2 for the "reach" even though they already have an expensive 1DX. At the moment, my budget does not allow a new body, so I am shooting a 1DX.
Good luck, questions? Send a PM, you are welcome to visit my website. I love bird photography. I was in the Sacramento area last week, but no cameras, so sat in the rain at my mother-in-laws and read books. Not a bad thing.


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Mar 19, 2016 08:24:08   #
Hey why don't you rent one for a week? Another thing. When you walk around with that lens, people will stare at you.
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Mar 18, 2016 22:52:44   #
I would look for a used version II of the 70-200mm IS f2.8 if your budget can stretch that far. Great lens, and you have a crop factor in your favor, it also takes either the 1.4x or 2x if you wish more reach. Shooting birds you need the lowest f stop you can afford as so many shots are either dark or need a very high shutter speed. With higher f stops, the camera has a hard time focusing.
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Mar 18, 2016 22:40:25   #
Gene51 wrote:
I'm with Bill on ultrawide lenses. I used to have a Sigma 10-20 F4-5.6when I had a cropped sensor camera, and now I have a 14-24 F2.8.

I use them infrequently as well - mostly when I am in tight quarters.

There are two main concerns - the perspective distortion that Bill talks about - near objects take on an unnaturally large size, while things further away become tiny. This can produce some very dramatic effects. The other is volume anamorphosis - where round objects become increasingly egg-shaped as you place them at the edges and corners of the frame. You can see it in the image below - the trash can at the bottom left is not oval in shape - :)

There are some software programs that can correct for this to some degree - DXO being the best of the bunch, but at best it is an imperfect solution. In the past, lens manufacturers like Zeiss, Leitz, Schneider and Rodenstock had lenses for 35mm and larger format that were corrected for the volume aberration, but most lens designers these days don't bother. The 38mm F4 Zeiss Biogon and the 25mm F2.0 Zeiss Distagon were among the better designed lenses with low anamorphosis.

Another good reason to not use an ultrawide for landscape can be found in any fine art museum. If you look at all the great landscapes from the masters - not a one will appear to have an ultrawide point of view. If the artist wanted to encompass a wider view, he merely turned his head. In similar fashion, my most natural panoramas and wide view images are stitched composites usually taken with a 45mm or 85mm tilt shift lens. These are by far my sharpest lenses and my go to for landscapes.
I'm with Bill on ultrawide lenses. I used to have ... (show quote)


Gene51 knows more about photography than I ever will, and I really like his work. And I agree completely about stitching shots together if you want the bigger view. Else where there is a great discussion on travel tripods, and some of the comments are nearly bizarre. These two panos were shot with an about 3 lb carbon MeFoto travel tripod. The one in Prague was in a good breeze, but I think the tripod did its job and the photos are really sharp.
If you wonder about the processing on the Prague photo; I think 5 shots at about 9 sec each with Canon 5Dmk3 and the 24-105 lens at f4.0 (wide open) ISO 100 for processing; the city was masked and the sky denoised. A Luminosity mask may have done that as well, but at the time I was not proficient with them. While there was water in the foreground, it was not pretty so a layer created, flipped, motion blurred and darkened somewhat and placed below at the waterline. The fireworks were added from a shot in Dresden. I am pleased with the result.
Bill

Prague and Charles Bridge

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Madrid skyline

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Mar 18, 2016 22:01:04   #
Luggerbugs wrote:
I'd be very interested to see some of your landscape shots with it - many thanks.


OK here you go; all shot with a rented Canon 5DSR 50 mp - yeah I wish I owned it, great camera. No distortion correction on any. In looking over the photos shot with this lens, I shot more at 20-24mm than on 11-14mm; but I included only the really wide ones. The last two shot are of Toledo. one with the wide angle and the other is a 7 panel pano which in raw with 50mp camera is over 850MB! The pano is way better to me. Any more questions, let me know.
Bill

12mm

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11mm

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11mm

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11mm

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11mm

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15mm

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70 -200 at 70 merge of 7 shots

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Mar 18, 2016 12:39:46   #
berchman wrote:
Thank you for your reply. Your wife's sharing in the carrying is great. I, on the other hand, have a wife who has adamantly refused to carry anything of mine, not even a small shoulder bag with drugs, emergency clothing and a few electronics. This happened after our last trip when she hurt her back snatching a suitcase off the conveyor. So I used to wear a ThinkTank backpack (not a roller) with all the equipment. Heavy and uncomfortable because no waist band. And I would pull a roller with my clothing. My wife used to carry a small shoulder bag of mine with drugs, toiletries, Bose sound cancelling earphones, a flashlight and a Kindle reader plus all the charging apparatus.



But now I'm expected to carry *two* rollers up stairs, hers and mine *and* she will not carry the shoulder bag. I can do this, but I don't want to. It's just one more misery to add to the general anxiety I experience during travel, worrying about every detail and struggling with foreign languages. I tend toward perfectionism so even though I've studied Italian, French, German and Spanish, it still is stressful to have to deal with foreign languages.

My main interest is in candid photography of people plus the usual tourist stuff. So one Nikon D800 with the 70-200 f/2.8 would hang at one hip and the other Nikon D700 with the 18-35 f/2.8 would hang on the other hip. That way I wouldn't lose a shot by fumbling with changing lenses. This worked in China, India and SE Asia, but it was a no-go for France and Germany because their attitude to being photographed is not the open, welcoming attitude one finds in India, Burma, etc. So in Europe I would use the D800 with the Nikon 24-120 f/4 as my walkaround lens. But even that drew too much attention. So I just bought the Fuji and I'll see how that works out with the 18-135 or the 27 pancake lens.

I should point out that even though I'm 78, I am physically able to carry plenty of weight. (I can curl 30 lb dumbbells and do multiple dead lifts with 155 lbs.) So the issue is not physical incapacity.
Thank you for your reply. Your wife's sharing in t... (show quote)


Let me make myself clear. I carry two bodies because my wife DEMANDS her own camera, and does very well with it. If I just take one camera, we squabble. When we take two; she usually wants the 24-105 lens and then I go with a wide angle or 70-200 zoom and we divide up the shots as to which lens is most appropriate; if we can't agree, we both shoot away. Since she won a first prize in a travel photo contest, I can't say much. I am pretty sure I can't lift the weights you do.
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Mar 18, 2016 12:30:54   #
Luggerbugs wrote:
Thank Bill. Just interested to know why you have not used the 11-24 much for landscapes.

Well, things get really small; I have done some landscape with the 11-24; you need to get really really close to a foreground object to get a good picture. I perhaps am not skilled enough to get meaningful landscapes with it. I can post some examples tonight when I am home if you would like. On the other hand, for churches and castles it really shines.
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Mar 18, 2016 08:58:50   #
berchman wrote:
So when you travel (to Turkey, Germany, Switzerland, Spain, Mexico, Costa Rica, St Maartin, Hawaii) you haul all the equipment you have listed plus a tripod? Do you walk around with a large, heavy backpack carrying all your stuff? I'm just wondering what lengths you go to to get good shots. I travel a good deal too, but for the first time on an upcoming trip to Sicily and Calabria, I will be taking only a Fuji X-t1, and a Nikon SB 600 speedlight. On past trips I hauled two full frame Nikons and a wide angle zoom and medium telephoto zoom and I'm sick of being a packhorse.
So when you travel (to Turkey, Germany, Switzerlan... (show quote)


Well I have not perfected the art of traveling light. I have two large Thinktank roller bags; if I am going on a bird shoot, virtually everything travels with me. The 600mm, the 300mm and two FF bodies (my wife is a good photographer) Those will be my two carryons if flying - which is most of the time. I have a long suitcase that holds the big Feisol tripod with wimberly head and my clothes. For Europe and other sightseeing trips, one think tank with 2 bodies and the 70-200 plus short and wide angle lenses and the travel tripod which is a Mefoto. If we are leaving the hotel for the day, I try to guess what we will need and put a different lens on each body and usually one more in a back pack and we each carry one body/lens. A lot of people think I am crazy, and sometimes I wonder about myself as well, but I like to have what I need. My wife is a travel addict, so we go a lot. We were in Prague last year and using the travel tripod got some great shots of the city at night. Don't know if that answers your questions, but I am clearly willing to pack more and carry more than a lot of readers of this blog. On bird shoots I carry the 1DX and the 600mm and shoot 90% without a tripod. I am 75 and not in the best shape, but I really wonder about those who think a body and a 70-200 are too much to carry.
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Mar 17, 2016 23:52:51   #
EdM wrote:
super shot, too much light pollution on Long Island for that kinda photog... time?? lens open?.. great shot


I cheated, or more accurately, created what I wanted not exactly what I saw. First of all ate in restaurant on the top floor with a great view of the Blue Mosque, but there were more stairs, so asked. They went to the roof! Got permission to set up and shoot on the roof, so that got me the view of the Blue Mosque. The exposures were about 8 or 10 seconds. I took a large series. You are correct, a lot of light pollution in Istanbul. So when home, masked out the Mosque and substituted a star shot I took in New Mexico for the background. Also, there was an ugly building in the forefront on the right, so I cloned the dome on the left foreground a couple of times on the right. It did win a nice prize in a travel contest where compositing was allowed.
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Mar 17, 2016 23:18:50   #
wow! great shots; I do blend with PS, but not like that. More to learn
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Mar 17, 2016 23:16:06   #
Luggerbugs wrote:
Over the last few years I have built up quite a comprehensive collection of Lee graduated filters for use in my seascape/landscape photography. I am considering buying a new lens, Canon's 11-24 which is an ultra wide angle and uses a different size of filter and filter holder. I'm just thinking about the options and rather than buy a whole new set of graduated filters one option that occurred to me is to use the graduated filter in Lightroom.

So, my question is: has anyone here ditched their grads and is now successfully using Lightroom or equivalent filters?
Over the last few years I have built up quite a co... (show quote)


You can do a lot in PP, but still need graduated filters; I have the 11-24 and a fab lens, but really specialized. I use it far more for interiors, and very little for landscape. Shot churches and castle interiors recently in Spain with a rented 5DSR (yeah, I want one) and got beautiful shots and no need for filters.
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