Know how to prevent ‘bug breath’ while riding your hog?
Never smile.
:P

Try riding your motorcycle at 70MPH in a rain storm............you’ll know the feeling!

You don't have to wait for it to rain!
Just turn on the water tap in the kitchen sink and experiement shooting the drops untill you understand what is needed to get what you want.(lighting, speed, flash etc.)

Not a friend or relative.

What about the 'closing time' paradigm? :-D

I thought I did click 'save original' box. No I did not take it.

You guys did such a good job on the title "Can someone help repost" at improving an image, I thought I would give you a new challenge. What can you do with the attached image to make it look better, younger? (Not my real Grandmother :-D ). Thanks.

Here is what Sebring looked like in 1952. (still shots taken from an 8mm movie I took).

How to work with available light.
Fun video from Nikon.

http://vimeo.com/videoschool/lesson/174/do-more-with-your-dslr-i-working-with-available-light

Amazon currently has a sale on glass.
http://www.amazon.com/b/ref=pe_81070_23126250_pe_epc_fl?node=173565

Bears have one in the naval. :-D

Let me play the ridiculous devil’s advocate for a moment.(Or, how far can it go?)
When I hire a photographer to take pictures for me I am paying him for his expert skills and the rental of his equipment. He works for me. He is in my employ. I expect to pay him at a rate commensurate with his expertise and the cost of renting his equipment. Since the costs of the venue, arrangements, props, materials, ambience, appearance, feel, attendees, services, and event design and planning were provided by me, I therefore retain all rights and privileges to any and all images recorded by said photographer at the time and date of the event.
Like the scientist or engineer, who is paid a salary by a company, his inventions and intellectual work belongs to the company. He retains no rights to the results of his efforts while employed by me and may not benefit from any portion or piece of this work effort in the future, in any way, nor can he use, divulge or apply the intellectual process, knowledge, facts, data and information thereby acquired during this work effort, to any other person, work effort or process, without my written consent.
I do not however, require the acquired information and skills, thereby derived, to be removed from the photographer’s biological memory.
:shock:

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Focus stacking is a series of images made at different depth points in the image. In order to do this properly you need a focusing rail that can move your camera forward at set intervals. The correct way to do this is not to change the focusing of the lens, you have to literally move the camera forward slowly and make exposures as the camera is moved. Changing the focusing of the lens changes the perspective of the subject and the end result is not sharp. This has to be done on a focusing rail. There are videos on youtube that explain the process. Look for focus stacking on a focusing rail. You dont change the focusing of the camera, you have to move the entire camera forward bit by bit until you cover the depth of the item you want to photograph keeping the focusing of the camera untouched. Here is a video on the correct way to do focus stacking. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gf7ABBqd0bw&feature=related One last thing, you can not have your camera set to auto focusing it must be in the manual setting. This is the only way to do focus stacking properly. I would recommend the Novoflex castel-l focusing rail, you can find these used on ebay for a good price. They are a little expensive but its a great rail. The stacking is done in photo merge in photoshop and there are videos about this also.[/quote]
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Silver.
How do you think the focusing rail might work on the 9 foot length proposed above?

To see the concept of stacking do the following.
1. Get three yardsticks.
2. Place them end to end on a long table or driveway, in good light. (This provides 9 feet of depth)
3. Place your camera on a tripod at one end of the line of yardsticks. Make sure all the yardsticks are visible in the frame of view and you can see the inch markings and numbers.
4. Select a lens with very low “F” stop. (50 mm, at f 1.9 is good). Set it to the lowest f stop.(wide open)
5. Use manual focus to focus on the inch mark closest to the camera. Take a picture.
6. Without moving anything, manually focus on the one foot mark on the first yardstick. Take a picture.
7. Without moving anything, manually focus on the 2 foot mark on the first yardstick. Take a picture.
8. Continue this process, taking a picture focused at each of the one foot marks along the three yardsticks from nearest to furthest end.

You now have a set of images that can be stacked to show the total 9 foot length of the yardsticks in focus.

The effect can be more dramatic if a macro (close-up) lens is used since the DOF is much shorter. The higher the magnification the better the effect can be seen.

In the old days (film). I used a light slit to photograph bugs to get greater DOF so the whole bug was in focus, front to back. Just move the slit along the body of the bug, focusing at each point on the area covered by the light slit, and re-exposing. The result was a bug in focus from end to end.

ok....WHO HAS IT? One is missing!
:hunf:

(Good test)