I'm looking to get a quality polarizing filter for one of my Fujifilm lenses. I have used B & W in the past, along with Singh-Ray. I have heard good things about Marumi filters also, but I don't know anything about the Meyer-Optik brand. The B & W I'm looking at sells for $65 at Adorama, the Marumi is $95.00 and the Meyer-Optik is $134.00. The polarizing filter is the only filter I use, so I don't mind paying extra for a good polarizer.

Have any of you folks heard of Meyer-Optik filters and have an opinion on them? I know I could buy it from Adorama and return it if I don't like it, but I would prefer to do it right the first time. Thanks for everyone's input. I did a search on here for Meyer-Optik but nothing comes up.

My last Canon cameras were fullframe 1DMkII, 5DMkIV, and APS-C size 7DMkII. So I had up to 14 fps with the 1D which was a beast. But way too expensive when compared to an A9 with 20fps (without missing any focus ,as it is able to do 60 exposure and 60 autofocus adjustments per second which is unmatched by any Canon including 1D) and A7RIII and A7III with 10 fps (without missing any focus). And BTW top Sony cameras like the A9 and A7III have 695 focus spots covering 93% of the frame. NO Canon camera comes even close to that focus coverage, so I have a better shot at following the race car all the way across the frame in AF-C than any Canon camera. I have shot all fast sports and there is NOTHING a Canon DSLR (at any price) can do better than the top Sony mirrorless can also do AND do other things better.

Hey I don't really care if you switch and I am not telling or even asking you to switch. Use what you like, please.

But unlike you, I have extensively used BOTH top DSLR and top Mirrorless systems, and for me the mirrorless system I have now is better in many ways. There are simply too many features that NO DSLR can ever physically have. That is why folks ARE switching, and that is why Canon and Nikon are spending millions developing their own professional fullframe mirrorless cameras.

We will see if Nikon and Canon's first pro fullframe mirrorless offerings will match the best fullframe mirrorless out there at that time. Sony is always updating and pushing the envelop with each new release, not like the drip, drip of small advances from Canon.

FYI adding an MC-11 adapter to a Canon lens for Sony does not make it any slower in still focusing (Many testers have shown that) .And there is no glass in the MC-11 adapter and no loss of any light or f-stops when using it. The adapted Canon glass IS slower in video focusing. I have transition from my Canon glass to native Sony glass and Sigma glass which focuses as fast as native E-mount glass. Sony's amazing focus system ,including Eye-AF in their latest A9, A7RIII and A7III is as fast and faster as anything else available. Show me any pro tester that shows Canon focusing faster or more accurately than a A9 or A7III, you won't find any.

It is understandable for Canon and Nikon DSLR users who are happy with their gear to defend their choices in gear. I was a loyal proponent of Nikon and Canon top-end pro SLRS and DSLRs for 40 years. But once I had actually tried and used the top Sony fullframe mirrorless systems it was a no-brainer to switch. And I would never go back to that bulky mirrorbox with its outdated tech. I shoot both stills and video and Nikon And Canon have a ways to go to design a single camera that does fusion as well as mirrorless cameras do. Cheers

Rehess, I think I'm seeing something misleading here?
I'm certainly no optics expert but I can't begin to pretend to understand how one could add an adaptor to anything and increase it's light gathering abilities by two stops, from f1.2 to f.66? If anything its light gathering might DROP by two stops!
Now I can see that it might decrease the DOF to the equivalent of f.66 since it seems to be increasing the magnification by .5x.
But how can the distance to sensor be increased and the f-stop be increased? Add any distance between a lens and the Sensor and there is light drop-off, NOT light increase! Decrease the orifice and the same light decrease! Add both and it compounds. It's why Nikon can't make an AF f1.2 or faster lens!
This is very misleading. It seems to just be a controlled multiplier resulting in the DoF of an f.66 lens!!!
Maybe someone can explain this to me/us???
SS

My wife and I cull the photos saving the best or most meaningful then mount prints in a photo album and add commentary. Every once in a while we sit down and go over them recalling some good times and good laughs. We do not bore others with them. On rare occasion, if we have something special, I will make an enlargement to hang or share at camera club. My wife made a month long study trip to India and upon return put together a slide show with narrative for educational purposes - pre digital. On another occasion we did a seven week trip along the Louis and Clark Trail and did the same. After a few presentations they languish in storage.

One word of warning, if you are using matrix do not expect consistent exposures with different subjects. Matrix metering tends to modify the exposure and nobody knows by how much. Spot or center weighted metering are better choices.
Look at the histogram after the exposure to make sure you got it right. My tendency with digital is to expose for an important highlight and compensate accordingly.
If you are shooting RAW for the first time I am going to say that you picked the wrong time, that is, when traveling.